Sun, 06 Oct 2002

Anambas Islands offers peace and tranquility

A'an Suryana, The Jakarta Post, Anambas, Riau

Have you ever imagined yourself as Chuck Noland (played outstandingly by Tom Hanks) in Cast Away? As a nine-to-five worker, he had to struggle to stay alive in a remote island -- cast away into the most desolate environment imaginable.

But we're not talking about Noland's experience. Instead, the scenery in the movie is our focus. The no-man's land-island still has its rich and original ecosystem. Birds are seen flying in the sky safely without human threat. No industrial or noise pollution is to be had.

A question remained in my head after watching Cast Away. Where can I find such a wonderful place like in the movie?

Actually, I didn't have to go very far. Indonesia has such a beautiful islands. One such group is the Anambas Islands, part of the great Natuna Islands in Riau province.

Locals often call the Anambas Islands -- comprising of Jemaja, Siantan, Matak, Mubur, Telaga, Airabu and Bajau islands -- the Seven Islands.

Located some 800 miles (around 1,300 kilometers) north of Jakarta, the Anambas Islands are still mostly virginal. They can be reached by a three-hour flight, though.

To get there, tourists must fly from Jakarta to Tanjungpinang on Bintan Island, Riau province before transferring to a small commercial airplane to Matak Island. The total journey takes around three-and-a-half hours. Flights are only available twice a week every Tuesday and Thursday

The airport in Matak Island was built by the oil and gas company ConocoPhilips Indonesia. The company also built several buildings on the island which was used as the base for its operations in the gas-rich Natuna Islands to the immediate east. The company provided a regular shuttle for its employees between Jakarta and Matak every Tuesday and Saturday.

Local inhabitants have lived in the Anambas islands for years, but still, the islands are not very populous. The only somewhat populous area is Tarempa, the capital of Ladan district.

The mountainous interior of the islands has made it difficult for locals to occupy much of the islands. Most live in houses built on stilts at the water's edge.

Most Anambas residents are fishermen and depend a lot on the Natuna sea's richness. They mostly use jongkong (small boats) for transportation.

Despite its remoteness, Anambas has lots to offer for tourists. Snorkeling or diving is excellent in these pristine areas.

"The water is beautiful. Indeed, the threat of sharks are there, but as long as we are careful it doesn't matter," said Philip, a tourist from Singapore.

Those who don't like snorkeling and diving can swim, as the water is clean and safe.

Another recreational option is fishing. The area offers a huge variety of fish; from tuna to grouper and snappers.

The Anambas islands have been a favorite hangout for tourists, particularly from Singapore, mostly on fishing excursions. Groups of Singaporeans and tourists from other neighboring countries have frequented the islands for the past several years to indulge in their hobby.

Tourists might also observe the life of turtles in the area. The best place to see some turtles is Durai islet, which is so small it does not even appear on most maps.

Durai has a superb beach which is a perfect place for turtles. Tourists are suggested to come in July, August or October if they want to see turtles lay their eggs.

Most of the Anambas Islands are still in their original state, so tourists won't find any agencies or guides to help them arrange a trip to the islands. Instead, they must prepare the journey by themselves.

Accommodation will be an important thing to arrange. But no need to worry. There are three resorts on the islands. One is located at the tip of Tanjung Tebu on Siantan island while the other two are on Tarempa island.

The Anambas Indah Tourist Resort in Tanjung Tebu is good enough. It has 10 double-bed rooms. Each room is equipped with an air conditioner while the service is okay. Visitors are charged Rp 100,000 (US$11) per night.

Unlike hotels in big cities, which often provide meals, this resort is more informal. The owner, Christina, always asks her guests about the kind of food they want the next day. All ingredients has to be bought in Tarempa, some 15 minutes away by boat from Tanjung Tebu.

There are no telephone at the resort, adding to the isolation and relaxation.

"Telephone lines might be available next year," she said.

The resort location is very strategic as all rooms have an ocean view from a veranda, where guests can watch the exciting activities of the local fishermen.

Those who are interested to see a more dynamic population can visit nearby Tarempa town which has some nice, old buildings, built by the Dutch. The buildings, unfortunately have been commandeered by the Indonesian military. Some of the other colonial-era buildings are now being used by the Ladan district administration.

In the Tarempa port, you can see busy fishermen, workers and sailors unloading luggage and merchandise, trading fish and other activities.

With many things to offer in the Anambas Islands, I begin to think that I am luckier than Noland. I don't have to struggle alone in a remote, yet beautiful island. In fact, I did have a great opportunity to enjoy a small part of Indonesia with its beautiful environment.

If only Noland was stranded here, perhaps he would not have wanted to get back to his previous life.