Anai's Padang cuisine in upmarket setting

JAKARTA (JP): Everybody knows that Padang food is this country's closest equivalent to fast food. Usually eaten in the "raw", meaning on a dusty sidewalk in the market in the middle of all the action, platters of food are stacked like pyramids in the sun before being brought out before the diner to make their selections.

But the heat and noise are also part of the reason why some people give the food of West Sumatra a miss rather than dealing with the sideshows.

For them, there is Anai, which was advertised when it opened a couple of years ago as the only Padang restaurant located in a hotel. Moving on up? Stomachs grumbling and cash at the ready, we set out to see if it passes the taste test in its fancy environs, or have the spices been watered down for the more delicate palates among us.

Anai Restaurant, Boulevard Park Plaza Hotel, Jl. Letjen S. Parman Kav. 93-94, Slipi, West Jakarta.

Location: Easy to reach by public transportation or private car. Boulevard Park Plaza Hotel is the only hotel between two popular buildings; Taman Anggrek Mall and Harapan Kita hospital located on Jl. S. Parman -- one of Jakarta's main thoroughfares -- and not far from the Tomang flyover. The restaurant is on the first floor of the hotel, next to the swimming pool.

What's it got: The restaurant's thick menu lists its Padang style dishes and other Indonesian traditional food.

Taking up space on the first page are the most renowned Padang dishes: Rendang daging (braised beef in spicy coconut milk), gulai ayam (chicken in a spicy stew), gulai tunjang (cow's hoof stew) and ikan asam pedas (tuna in a spicy sour sauce).

There is also a variety of other foods -- eggs, cow's brain, jackfruit, squid -- in gulai, a spicy, curry-like stew made from coconut milk.

Other spicy Padang dishes cooked without coconut milk are dendeng balado (dried and fried beef garnished with red chili), telur balado (fried whole egg with chili), sambal goreng ati ampela (spicy chicken liver and gizzard with chili), udang balado (spicy fried shrimp with pete - a pungent type of bean) and chili), sate Padang (diced ox tongue satay with the distinctive Padang sauce), green or red chili sauce, ayam pop (boiled local chicken served with cassava leaves and chili), and nasi goreng Padang (Padang style fried rice).

Dishes from other regions of the country include grilled fish and chicken, gado-gado (blanched vegetables in peanut sauce), soto (chicken broth) and oxtail soup. And, of course, fried rice.

Sweet Padang beverages in tall, slim glasses include es cinderamato (a mix of flavored jellies, fermented black rice, cassava, condensed milk and ice) and Anai's es cindua (pandan- flavored flour in a syrup made from coconut milk and brown sugar).

Non-alcoholic cocktails include Batavia springs, virgin colada, lime punch and fruit punch. Alcoholic beverages include whisky, vodka, tequila, beer, red or white wine and champagne. Coffee-based drinks include cappuccino, espresso, decaffeinated coffee or liqueur coffee (Jamaican coffee, Italian coffee, Mexican coffee, Irish coffee), while fresh juices and tea add to the extensive drinks list.

Price Points: The bill came to Rp 182,000 net for our party of two's one small rendang, ayam pop, fish in a sweet and sour sauce, squid in a gulai sauce, five skewers of Padang satay, a small gurame fish, two small portions of Padang vegetables, three standard portions of rice, and three soft drinks. Pricey compared to the usual Padang eateries, but then this is a hotel, with all the "plus pluses".

Looks: Set in a traditional Minangkabau ambience with framed fabrics from the region, traditional weapons and musical instruments hanging on the wall and a traditional tablecloth on each of more than 15 tables. There are also two private dining rooms, each seating up to 12 diners.

The two waiters in their traditional Minang costumes may not be as dexterous as some of their counterparts, who are able to bear a dozen dishes as they scurry between tables, but Anai's staff do their job well and are all friendly.

Unlike most of its kind, this Padang restaurant is clean and comfortable.

Popular with: Expatriates from the offices along S. Parman street in Slipi, West Jakarta.

Taste Factor: Good all round, but rather disappointing if spice -- especially chili -- is what you relish. The rendang meat was too small and not spicy enough, the gulai curry tasted bitter, while the ikan asam pedas and the green chili sauce lacked flavor. But we do recommend Anai's delicious and top selling gurame in a yellow sour sauce, and the sweet es cinderamato and es cindua.

Minus Points: Lack of taste, meaning spice. Spice lovers will not be able to get the fire-brand hot taste they crave, but the experience will be a non-threatening introduction for others.

Verdict: A comfortable, spotless place for a good Padang meal. No need to worry about chili after effects, which may be a good or bad thing, depending on how you like your food. (Deni Putri)