Anai's Padang cuisine in upmarket setting

Anai's Padang cuisine in upmarket setting

JAKARTA (JP): Everybody knows that Padang food is this
country's closest equivalent to fast food. Usually eaten in the
"raw", meaning on a dusty sidewalk in the market in the middle of
all the action, platters of food are stacked like pyramids in the
sun before being brought out before the diner to make their
selections.

But the heat and noise are also part of the reason why some
people give the food of West Sumatra a miss rather than dealing
with the sideshows.

For them, there is Anai, which was advertised when it opened a
couple of years ago as the only Padang restaurant located in a
hotel. Moving on up? Stomachs grumbling and cash at the ready, we
set out to see if it passes the taste test in its fancy environs,
or have the spices been watered down for the more delicate
palates among us.

Anai Restaurant, Boulevard Park Plaza Hotel, Jl. Letjen S.
Parman Kav. 93-94, Slipi, West Jakarta.

Location: Easy to reach by public transportation or private
car. Boulevard Park Plaza Hotel is the only hotel between two
popular buildings; Taman Anggrek Mall and Harapan Kita hospital
located on Jl. S. Parman -- one of Jakarta's main thoroughfares
-- and not far from the Tomang flyover. The restaurant is on the
first floor of the hotel, next to the swimming pool.

What's it got: The restaurant's thick menu lists its Padang
style dishes and other Indonesian traditional food.

Taking up space on the first page are the most renowned Padang
dishes: Rendang daging (braised beef in spicy coconut milk),
gulai ayam (chicken in a spicy stew), gulai tunjang (cow's hoof
stew) and ikan asam pedas (tuna in a spicy sour sauce).

There is also a variety of other foods -- eggs, cow's brain,
jackfruit, squid -- in gulai, a spicy, curry-like stew made from
coconut milk.

Other spicy Padang dishes cooked without coconut milk are
dendeng balado (dried and fried beef garnished with red chili),
telur balado (fried whole egg with chili), sambal goreng ati
ampela (spicy chicken liver and gizzard with chili), udang balado
(spicy fried shrimp with pete - a pungent type of bean) and
chili), sate Padang (diced ox tongue satay with the distinctive
Padang sauce), green or red chili sauce, ayam pop (boiled local
chicken served with cassava leaves and chili), and nasi goreng
Padang (Padang style fried rice).

Dishes from other regions of the country include grilled fish
and chicken, gado-gado (blanched vegetables in peanut sauce),
soto (chicken broth) and oxtail soup. And, of course, fried rice.

Sweet Padang beverages in tall, slim glasses include es
cinderamato (a mix of flavored jellies, fermented black rice,
cassava, condensed milk and ice) and Anai's es cindua (pandan-
flavored flour in a syrup made from coconut milk and brown
sugar).

Non-alcoholic cocktails include Batavia springs, virgin
colada, lime punch and fruit punch. Alcoholic beverages include
whisky, vodka, tequila, beer, red or white wine and champagne.
Coffee-based drinks include cappuccino, espresso, decaffeinated
coffee or liqueur coffee (Jamaican coffee, Italian coffee,
Mexican coffee, Irish coffee), while fresh juices and tea add to
the extensive drinks list.

Price Points: The bill came to Rp 182,000 net for our party of
two's one small rendang, ayam pop, fish in a sweet and sour
sauce, squid in a gulai sauce, five skewers of Padang satay, a
small gurame fish, two small portions of Padang vegetables, three
standard portions of rice, and three soft drinks. Pricey compared
to the usual Padang eateries, but then this is a hotel, with all
the "plus pluses".

Looks: Set in a traditional Minangkabau ambience with framed
fabrics from the region, traditional weapons and musical
instruments hanging on the wall and a traditional tablecloth on
each of more than 15 tables. There are also two private dining
rooms, each seating up to 12 diners.

The two waiters in their traditional Minang costumes may not
be as dexterous as some of their counterparts, who are able to
bear a dozen dishes as they scurry between tables, but Anai's
staff do their job well and are all friendly.

Unlike most of its kind, this Padang restaurant is clean and
comfortable.

Popular with: Expatriates from the offices along S. Parman
street in Slipi, West Jakarta.

Taste Factor: Good all round, but rather disappointing if
spice -- especially chili -- is what you relish. The rendang meat
was too small and not spicy enough, the gulai curry tasted
bitter, while the ikan asam pedas and the green chili sauce
lacked flavor. But we do recommend Anai's delicious and top
selling gurame in a yellow sour sauce, and the sweet es
cinderamato and es cindua.

Minus Points: Lack of taste, meaning spice. Spice lovers will
not be able to get the fire-brand hot taste they crave, but the
experience will be a non-threatening introduction for others.

Verdict: A comfortable, spotless place for a good Padang meal.
No need to worry about chili after effects, which may be a good
or bad thing, depending on how you like your food. (Deni Putri)