'Ampo', edible clay with health benefits

By Gin Kurniawan

BANTUL, Yogyakarta (JP): Snaky tendrils of mist overtly cloud the dawn as a septuagenarian trudges down the Alas Sentong hill that fosters her livelihood back to her sequestered home a kilometer away. With faltering steps, balancing wizardry and a back bent by age and 20 kilograms of freshly dug mud, the 76-year-old Wartiyem of Minggiran village, Imogiri, smiles even though the day's work has yet to begin.

The mud is the sole ingredient of ampo -- a herbal mud used for traditional treatment of consumption -- and the only kind to make ampo in Imogiri. The mud is only found in Alas Sentong, next to a graveyard dedicated for artists -- a project run by noted local artist Sapto Hudoyo.

Having devoted 50 years of her life to making ampo, Wartiyem resolutely dedicates herself to the inherited profession without giving much thought to the amorphous zone between two generations.

Ampo, known for its medicinal qualities, used to be a delight of the old people in Central Java and Yogyakarta. Thin, spiraling, brown strips create an aroma of dried mud after the first downpour of monsoon ends a drought.

Making ampo is simple and the method is generations-old. However, the diligence and care taken during the initial stages of production must be thorough. The mud is soaked in water for a night and a day, knead into a dough, cleansed of unwanted sand particles. The dough is then molded into bricks measuring 30x20 cms and hammered into an exact shape.

The bricks are sliced thinly with a bamboo knife. Slices are twisted into mounting spirals atop one another and left to dry. Then they are burned among dried leaves to bring out their aroma. Overheating or over-drying will spoil the ampo.

The official Indonesian dictionary defines ampo as a clay containing calcium carbonate, usually taken as medicine. The Javanese used to use ampo for ailments ranging from gastric problems to diarrhea. Pregnant women believed the ampo could help with mineral deficiencies and weakened wombs.

A lecturer of Gajah Mada University's Faculty of Pharmacy, Sarjiman says that there has not been enough research even though ampo can strengthen the heart and cure general ailments caused by calcium and carbonate deficiencies.

Calcium, he says, serves as an electrolytic balancing function, strengthening the heart. "It makes sense that many pregnant women took ampo to strengthen the heart of the baby."

The carbonate element functions as a toxin absorbent, soaking up and channeling toxins into the intestines to be excreted.

Sarjiman said it worked well for diarrhea patients. "Carbonate will relieve the patient of gastric problems, air and help with excretion," said the doctorate candidate and herbal expert.

Sarjiman explained that side effects were little to none, as ampo did not enter blood vessels but passed through intestinal linings and was then excreted.

Ampo is sold at several traditional markets in Yogyakarta and Central Java, usually at jamu (herb) kiosks.

Sutinah, a 56-year-old mother of five, takes ampo to temporarily relieve stomach cramps. "I take ampo and my stomach cramps are gone," she claims.

Others enjoy it. "I do not know about its medicinal qualities," says 32-year-old Diah of Surabaya. "I take it only because of its special aroma, when I come to Yogyakarta."

Gradually on the wane, ampo has lost its allure and market to modern medicine. Imogiri is no more the epicenter of ampo-making, and as Wartiyem concluded: "I am the only one left here." Early in the 1990s there used to be at least six ampo makers in the area, but they have either died or moved.

Wartiyem said that making ampo was no job for the ambitious, as more people opt for menial construction site jobs over ampo making. Brokers get a kilo of ampo for Rp 300, which is sold for Rp 700 to kiosk holders. She manages to make 10 to 20 kilograms a day when her health allows.

"Actually, making ampo takes so much care and diligent work," Wartiyem said.

Generations of ampo making will end with Wartiyem, as she is widowed and without children. Her adopted child helps her occasionally, but has no intention of continuing the trade.

"I still hope that someone is out there to carry on this ancient tradition," said Wartiyem. This is a high hope given today's circumstances.