Among active ancestors at Candi Sukuh in C. Java

Among active ancestors at Candi Sukuh in C. Java

Text and photo by Simon Marcus Gower

SURAKARTA, Central Java (JP): Sexual indiscretions are often
the topic of tabloids and gossip but are not generally associated
with places of worship. However, visit a particular ancient
temple in Central Java and such thoughts may come to the
forefront of your mind.

Candi Sukuh has gained some notoriety for its tales concerning
the more racy, scandalous aspects of life. On a hillside some
fifty kilometers from Surakarta, Candi Sukuh is unusual for both
its tales and architecture.

The temple was built 600 years ago by the last king of the
Majapahit Kingdom, Suhita. The location of the temple is puzzling
-- being remote and high up on a hillside. It seems incredible
that people living in an age of limited technology were able to
cut, carry and carve the stones used for the temple.

According to our guide, Hadi, the location was chosen because
it was considered sacred and it soon became a site for ancestor
worship. These ancestors apparently remain at the location and
pass judgment on the purity and sexual fidelity of visitors.

Sukuh is unique for Java because it is similar to the ancient
Mayan pyramids of South America. The temple stands on three
terraces and the pyramid on the top terrace seems to gather in
awe and wonder as you approach. Indeed, the approach up the
terraces is said to be where the ancestors assess visitors.

Through the first gate to the first terrace, guarded by two
dvarapalas (huge stone-carved statues that guard many Javanese
temples), a small path is reached. Along it are sculptures and
relief carvings and here is the first test from the ancestors.
Among the carvings are representations of a phallus and a vulva.
Tradition says a woman passing these may find that her clothes
tear. If this happens, it is an indication that the woman has
been promiscuous and must confess and seek purification.

Should one pass this path without any tearing of clothes, two
more dvarapalas stand at the entrance to the next terrace.
Through the narrow gate more carved stones line the path. Here it
is said strong winds blow aggressively across the hillside if a
man who has been unfaithful in marriage should pass; the winds
being a sign that he must seek forgiveness from his wife.

Allowing for torn clothes and crosswinds, the third and final
terrace may be reached. Here, too, are carved stones -- in relief
stories are told and a variety of carved figures serve as
guardians to the pyramid. Winged figures, grotesque creatures and
peculiar giant stone turtles stand bearing witness to the unique
pyramid.

Beyond these odd creatures stands the small, undecorated
pyramid. Hypnotically one is drawn to the narrow slit at its
center, which contains steep steps to its top where purification
may occur.

It is claimed that the more pornographic sculptures were
removed to the National Museum in Jakarta, away from devious
minds and eyes. Whether this is true seems incidental when one is
standing on top of this mysterious, wonderful pyramid. Views down
the hillside and across distant plains are spectacular. With the
huge dew-soaked stones beneath your feet, it is possible to
imagine how this location came to be thought of as sacred.

Whether ancient ancestors reside here to judge with torn
clothes and crosswinds is perhaps questionable, but the reality
of Candi Sukuh is beyond doubt. This is a unique, mysterious and
wondrous site. The remarkable work that went into creating it
centuries ago has left an intriguing sacred place that is both
puzzling and awe inspiring.

Getting There: Candi Sukuh lies about 50 kilometers east of
Surakarta, from where public transportation can be taken to
Karangpandan and then on to the small village of Ngolrok.

Temperatures can be rather cool at the site so some warmer
clothing may be useful, as will sturdy footwear as it can be
quite rough underfoot.