Among active ancestors at Candi Sukuh in C. Java

Text and photo by Simon Marcus Gower

SURAKARTA, Central Java (JP): Sexual indiscretions are often the topic of tabloids and gossip but are not generally associated with places of worship. However, visit a particular ancient temple in Central Java and such thoughts may come to the forefront of your mind.

Candi Sukuh has gained some notoriety for its tales concerning the more racy, scandalous aspects of life. On a hillside some fifty kilometers from Surakarta, Candi Sukuh is unusual for both its tales and architecture.

The temple was built 600 years ago by the last king of the Majapahit Kingdom, Suhita. The location of the temple is puzzling -- being remote and high up on a hillside. It seems incredible that people living in an age of limited technology were able to cut, carry and carve the stones used for the temple.

According to our guide, Hadi, the location was chosen because it was considered sacred and it soon became a site for ancestor worship. These ancestors apparently remain at the location and pass judgment on the purity and sexual fidelity of visitors.

Sukuh is unique for Java because it is similar to the ancient Mayan pyramids of South America. The temple stands on three terraces and the pyramid on the top terrace seems to gather in awe and wonder as you approach. Indeed, the approach up the terraces is said to be where the ancestors assess visitors.

Through the first gate to the first terrace, guarded by two dvarapalas (huge stone-carved statues that guard many Javanese temples), a small path is reached. Along it are sculptures and relief carvings and here is the first test from the ancestors. Among the carvings are representations of a phallus and a vulva. Tradition says a woman passing these may find that her clothes tear. If this happens, it is an indication that the woman has been promiscuous and must confess and seek purification.

Should one pass this path without any tearing of clothes, two more dvarapalas stand at the entrance to the next terrace. Through the narrow gate more carved stones line the path. Here it is said strong winds blow aggressively across the hillside if a man who has been unfaithful in marriage should pass; the winds being a sign that he must seek forgiveness from his wife.

Allowing for torn clothes and crosswinds, the third and final terrace may be reached. Here, too, are carved stones -- in relief stories are told and a variety of carved figures serve as guardians to the pyramid. Winged figures, grotesque creatures and peculiar giant stone turtles stand bearing witness to the unique pyramid.

Beyond these odd creatures stands the small, undecorated pyramid. Hypnotically one is drawn to the narrow slit at its center, which contains steep steps to its top where purification may occur.

It is claimed that the more pornographic sculptures were removed to the National Museum in Jakarta, away from devious minds and eyes. Whether this is true seems incidental when one is standing on top of this mysterious, wonderful pyramid. Views down the hillside and across distant plains are spectacular. With the huge dew-soaked stones beneath your feet, it is possible to imagine how this location came to be thought of as sacred.

Whether ancient ancestors reside here to judge with torn clothes and crosswinds is perhaps questionable, but the reality of Candi Sukuh is beyond doubt. This is a unique, mysterious and wondrous site. The remarkable work that went into creating it centuries ago has left an intriguing sacred place that is both puzzling and awe inspiring.

Getting There: Candi Sukuh lies about 50 kilometers east of Surakarta, from where public transportation can be taken to Karangpandan and then on to the small village of Ngolrok.

Temperatures can be rather cool at the site so some warmer clothing may be useful, as will sturdy footwear as it can be quite rough underfoot.