All that glitters in glorious gold accessories
All that glitters in glorious gold accessories
Maria Endah Hulupi, The Jakarta Post, Surabaya
Gold has always had that special something.
Ancient Egyptians used it to represent their venerated sun
god, Ra. Ancient Inca civilization highly valued it and even
named it the "sweat of the sun".
The precious metal is also used to depict the sun or Yang
element (silver is the moon or Yin element) in Chinese culture.
Many Chinese associate gold with the search for perpetual
life, while other societies believed that it held healing
properties for certain illnesses. It has also been a trusted
investment for when hard times hit.
In its purest form, gold is soft and pliable. It is not
damaged by air, heat or humidity, making it a valuable commodity.
Gold has been as currency for over 5000 years and in the modern
era, medicine and electronic industries, to name a few, use it
for its durability.
Of course, its most famous association is as coveted jewelry,
and Indonesian designers are attempting to make their mark
abroad.
In 2000, the country produced 96 tons of gold jewelry and this
year the figure is expected to increase to 105 tons. Its US$200
million in exports are destined for Europe, the United States,
the Middle East, China, the Philippines, Malaysia and Singapore.
Yet the figure is only 8.5 percent of Thailand's $1.7 billion
export value in gold jewelry.
"This sector has survived the economic crisis and we can still
further develop it," said the World Gold Council country manager
for Indonesia, Leo Hadi Loe.
When looking for inspiration, most local jewelry designers
continue to size up what works in European fashion. Trends for
2002 include the delicate ripples of ruffles, flowing movement of
garments and traditional motifs.
The clear aim for gold jewelry makers is to make their
products fashionable accessories, and this was what was showcased
at the three-day 3rd Indonesia Jewelry Fair at Shangri-La hotel,
Surabaya, last week.
Organized by the World Gold Council and with media invitees
including The Jakarta Post, the fair presented latest jewelry
from leading manufacturers and several gold retailers, such as PT
Untung Bersama Sejahtera (UBS), PT King Halim Jewelry, Frank&Co,
Gold Mart, PT Hartono Wira Tanik, Felice Jewelry and Pesona
Jewelry.
UBS owner Untung Jahya said its flowing jewelry adopted motifs
from European countries, especially Italy, as well as other parts
of Asia, like Japan.
"Next year's trend is strongly influenced by the fashion
industry. Our team explored Italian designs to cope with the
latest fashion trends. Italy has been one of the world's
trendsetters in the jewelry industry," Untung said.
He added that with the continuing political and economic
uncertainties, many local jewelry manufacturers had to switch
their target and focus more on designs that can penetrate the
international market.
About 50 percent of its 18-carat jewelry is exported to the
United States, and other Asian and Middle Eastern countries.
"For Indonesian customers, we produce smaller jewelry of two
grams to ten grams, which are very popular," he added.
The company's exclusive products include a gold "scarf" with
woven rattan motifs. Like a scarf, the 300-gram flowing jewel is
worn around the shoulders. There is also a gold waistband, long
gold strips for neck accessories and a long gold band, delicately
flowing around the neck and also adorning the hips (illustrated).
"Gold jewelry should no longer be considered only as an
investment, but also for its fashionable element, too," Untung
added.
King Halim Jewelry highlighted the delicate ripples of lacy
ruffles for its exclusive chokers and necklaces. It also produced
slim gold waistbands, fine multilayered necklaces and luxurious
gold-ornamented stilettos.
A member of the company's design team, Dewi Setiawati,
explained the firm also focused on fashion-oriented designs for
next year's trends.
Like UBS, the company's jewelry designs are heavily influenced
by the European fashion industry, but they also incorporated
traditional touches when designing its Pauline collection, which
targets young customers.
"We had explored East and Central Java's traditional batik
motifs and their vivid colors for our active and dynamic young
customers," she said.
Both companies underlined the importance of combining modern
technology and fine workmanship in creating elegant jewelry
designs.
"Many of our products were manufactured by applying high tech
and manual processing over many hours," she said, citing its Ball
and Chain chokers and stilettos that required numerous workers to
assemble the pieces.
Untung said Indonesia needed to focus on designs that combine
high tech precision and fine workmanship so that the products can
gain international appreciation.
"When it comes to high technology, we surely cannot compete
with developed countries but we can add refinements, involving
many skilled workers for details or assembling. Such products are
highly valued in the U.S. and European countries because they
don't have enough manpower to create them," he added.
A member of the senior management of leading Malaysian jewelry
retailer Habib Jewels, Gary Joseph, said that Malay traditional
designs that center around the tanjung and kerongsang flowers,
the sunflower and jasmine have started to draw international
customers.
"However, each country also has a trend of its own. Like in
Brunei Darussalam, colorful gems are very popular, while
Singaporeans and Malaysians in general prefer jewelry with simple
designs and good quality diamonds," he said.
Tasaki Shinju's retail division manager Naoko Goto explained
that the company focused more on pearl-based jewelry with
platinum, yellow and white gold for its stylish necklaces, rings
and earrings, which are much sought after in Japan.
"Those types of jewelry are also fashionable in Japan but gold
jewelry will come back," she said.