Al fresco dining, local style, with Santiga Seafood Halal
JAKARTA (JP): Since Hartadi H., better known as Abeng, took to the streets in business in 1989, his seafood sidewalk eatery has won a place in the hearts and stomachs of connoisseurs of the fruits of the sea.
Santiga Seafood Halal, Jl. Raya Bendungan Hilir Kav. 36 A, Central Jakarta (in front of BCA bank, next to KFC restaurant and across from Benhil traditional market). Accessible from Jl. Sudirman and Jl. Pejompongan Raya.
Open: 6 p.m. to midnight, daily including holidays.
What's it got: The four-page menu lists no less than 75 varieties of seafood, including calamari in oyster sauce, Kepiting Saus Padang (spicy crab), crispy shrimp, broiled fish, and fish soup. Apart from Padang, there are five other types of sauces: saus mentega (a spicy butter batter), saus tiram (oyster sauce), asam manis (sweet and sour), goreng tepung (flour) and one from Makassar in Sulawesi.
Chinese delicacies of Fuyunghai (crab pancake), Ifumie (fried noodles and sauce) and kwetiaw (thick rice noodles) are also available. Vegetable dishes include cap cai (boiled or sauteed vegetables), hot plates of kangkung (morning glory) or tofu, brokoli cah (braised broccoli), kailan cah (kailan) and braised mushrooms.
For non-seafood eaters and those with allergies, there is beef or chicken steak, sweet and sour chicken, tofu, corn soup and fried rice to pick from.
The beverage list includes tea, lemon, mineral water and soft drinks, but lovers of a tall cool one (beer, that is) will have to quench their thirst some place else.
Price Points: Depends on the weight of the fish chosen by the customer (the fish weigh at least 400 grams). A baronang fish is Rp 4,500 per 100-gram weight, kakap, bawal (pomfret) or kue fish are Rp 3,500, crab is Rp 40,000 per serving, shrimp Rp 20,000 per serving and other seafood ranges from Rp 7,500 to Rp 15,000.
Chinese dishes average Rp 10,000 per serving; steaks are Rp 16,000 each.
Looks: This place is untypically clear of garbage, flies, smoke, beggars and street singers, which are the bane of most sidewalk eateries, even the good ones, in the city. The tabletops are squeaky-clean, with no bits of the previous diner's morsels escaping the notice of the waiters as they clear up. Another exclusive touch is the presence of Apostolos Acoustic group, who perform during dinner (diners can request their favorite tunes). They are the reason street singers stay away.
Popular with...: Office workers from Jl. Sudirman, shop workers, residents of the surrounding Bendungan Hilir area and celebrities. Pak Abeng said some of the famous names who dine there include singer-actress Novia Kolopaking, her husband Ainun "Cak Nun" Najib, AB Three group member Nola, badminton player Taufik Hidayat, comedian Timbul, actress Jihan Fahira, actor Sultan Djorghi and soccer commentator Ronny Patinasarani.
Taste Factor: Standard taste except for the outstanding freshness of the fish. Recommended dishes were the sapo tahu (egg tofu filled with mushroom, carrots, slices of seafood), spicy crab and the broiled fish a la Makassar. The broiled baronang spiced with onion and garlic, was as good as it smelled. No problem with the rice and drinks (a lemon drink is good to neutralize the fishy taste).
Minus Points: As usual with sidewalk restaurants, no air- conditioning (but it's in the open air after all) and forget about asking for the restroom. Public transportation is a bit difficult at night, but it is only 100 meters walk away from Jl. Sudirman.
Verdict: Bring as many friends as you want, because it will end up cheaper if you go Dutch and get a great selection of eats. As its name proudly declares (and as one would expect with Cak Nun dining there), it's an acceptable eatery for Muslims. (Sri Ramadani)