Ajihara delivers authentic flavors in 'Little Tokyo'

Chisato Hara, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

One of the oldest izakaya in Blok M, South Jakarta, is Soba- dokoro Ajihara, run by proprietor Hikaru Harada.

With its double red lanterns and smiling tobacconist out front -- selling everything from Sampoerna to the ever-popular Mild Seven Japanese brand -- the eatery extends a warm welcome to all guests who stop by.

The minute the latticed rolling door slides open, a chorus of "Irasshai-mase (welcome)!" erupts, and a smiling waitress armed with a menu approaches to usher the guest: "Bar or table?"

Harada is busy behind the sushi bar, slicing fillet after fillet of fresh fish with care. He is quick to smile, and his regulars are gathered at the far end of the bar, where they keep up a running conversation punctuated by jokes and laughter.

Harada hails from Aomori prefecture in northern Japan, which is located just south of Tsugaru Strait that separates the islands of Honshu and Hokkaido.

"It's the boonies of the boonies," he said.

He first arrived in Jakarta in 1987 from Shinjuku, the business and entertainment district of Tokyo, where he was working at a sushi restaurant.

"One day, someone came in and asked whether I'd like to work at his restaurant in Jakarta. I had no clue where that was, and he said, 'Are you familiar with Java curry? Well, that's where it is.' And that's how I ended up here," he said, laughing.

That someone was Ogawa-san, proprietor and owner of Don restaurant, then located in Blok M, which specializes in udon, thick white noodles served in hot broth or cold with a dipping sauce. Don is now located at the basement level of Pasaraya department store and is run by Ogawa's son.

After two years at the restaurant, Harada was sent to Kagawa prefecture on the southwestern island of Shikoku to learn how to make sanukiudon, for which the area is famous. This handmade, traditional noodle made from white flour is renowned for its texture, and has a high gluten content from the strenuous kneading it requires to make the dough.

Harada had planned originally to stay in Jakarta only three years, "But I was reeled in by a 'pretty flower'". In 1989, he married the "pretty flower" from Central Java, and the couple have a boy-girl twin who attend Jakarta Japanese School.

"We discussed whether to move back to Japan and open a restaurant there or to stay here and try our luck. In Japan, it was still the (economic) 'bubble', so...," he shrugged.

And a good thing for the many guests who frequent Ajihara, which was established in 1990. The eatery's name comes from aji, meaning flavor, and from Harada's own name.

"It's hard to name a restaurant -- or children, for that matter. I thought, I'd like to offer good food with my personal touch -- Harada's aji. So it became Ajihara."

Drawing upon his noodle-making expertise, Ajihara's specialty is teuchi soba -- handmade buckwheat noodles. Teuchi means hand- hit, the skill required to stretch out the dough and release its flavor.

"Come to think of it, soba is the perfect diet food. It's low in calories, high in carbohydrates, has no cholesterol or fat. It's also known for its cleansing properties, for cleaning the stomach and intestines," he said. As an afterthought, he added, "I should promote soba as the ideal diet food."

While many patrons order the noodles as part of their meal, most come for the home-cooked fare at Ajihara -- and their authentic Japanese flavor.

"I know my menu's big, but otherwise my Japanese customers would complain. 'Why do you have this and not that?' After all, they come here for real home-cooking."

Japanese diners are not the only ones who appreciate Harada's cooking, and Ajihara is also frequented by both Indonesian and Western customers wanting more than the sushi, sashimi and teriyaki dishes typically served at Japanese restaurants.

"Of course, drinking is a big thing, too, but people come to izakaya for the food. Good food, good drink, good company -- that's what izakaya culture is all about."

Soba-dokoro Ajihara, Jl. Melawai IX No. 3A, Blok M, South Jakarta; tel (021) 7201340, 7220687; fax (021) 7208149; ajihara_soba@cbn.net.id. Ajihara is open daily from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 11:30 p.m., and from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. on public holidays. It is closed on New Year's Day, Independence Day (Aug. 17) and for the week of Lebaran.