African adventure: Get ready for a bumpy ride

Lia Lenggogeni, Contributor/Serengeti National Park, Tanzania

You have finally made it all the way to Africa to see its great wildlife parks in Tanzania, but now comes the rough stuff of actually getting around.

There are numerous safari operators in Arusha, but only a few of them are reputable. Always get an update from the tourist board, and ignore the touts roaming the streets for potential customers.

You can book from Indonesia, entailing paying a hefty deposit by wire transfer, or you can just show up at one of the offices in Arusha. Note that most of them don't take credit cards, just hard cash and traveler's checks (some even charge a fee for TC).

The safari price determines the quality of guide. A good guide is essential for a safari, because he can spot an animal no matter how obscure it is, explain what you want to know about that particular species and know where to look for it.

A good safari costs quite a lot, but it's well worth getting a good one because it determines, among other things, the level of comfort you get. And trust me, you want to be as comfortable as possible.

Facilities are minimal and although you mostly sit in a Range Rover all day, it gets very, very tiring. More people means a more substantial reduction in price. The price generally includes all park entrance fees, meals and driver-cum-guide. Some includes mineral water for daily consumption.

There are two types of safari: camping and lodge. Camping is either budget or luxury. Although budget camping safari is obviously very tempting because of its price, it is only for the brave, especially when you are taking a long itinerary. The facilities at the campsites sometimes do not include water (that means no shower for you, mister!) but do include appalling toilets.

If you think you can survive without showering during your safari, think again. No amount of so-called refreshing wipes will take off the stickiness after a grueling day of safari.

During the dry season, the weather can be unforgivingly hot (don't forget to pack heavy-duty sunblock, as I got badly burned on my third day). Flies are everywhere. Hair, no matter what type, will turn dry and brittle and look and feel like a blind, mad hairdresser had teased and sprayed (extra strong hold!) it mercilessly every end of the day. * The roads inside the parks range from it's-OK-I'm-from- Indonesia-I'm-used-to-unpaved-roads to ones where you secretly make a pact with the devil so your bottom can survive all this unscathed. And they are very, very, very dusty (try picking your nose after your safari, it's like cleaning up the mess at Ciliwung River). I would strongly recommend bringing one of those SARS masks to use during your safari. * If you're afraid of looking like a hoity-toity tourist, go back to the days of playing Cowboys and Indians and tie a handkerchief over your nose and mouth.

The lodges do not offer the luxuries of an Aman resort, but they do offer showers, hot water and electricity at a limited time (electricity is usually turned off at midnight) and at a hefty price tag (the priciest, SOPA lodges, cost about US$400 a night).

All lodges and campsites are located inside the parks, so it is quite common to have animal sightings in close proximity.

Keep in mind that although comfort is not something you should and can ignore during a safari, the sheer beauty of rugged African wilderness is a luxury on its own. Bring a good camera (leave that pocket camera at home), lots of film and enjoy the (bumpy) ride!

-- Lia Lenggogeni