Sun, 12 Aug 2001

A tasty mix: Middle Eastern food

JAKARTA (JP): Borders blur when it comes to finding where the flavors of Turkish and Lebanese food originate.

Culinary expert Laksmi Pamuntjak noted that both Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisines had similar roots and that sometimes the same ingredients and herbs could be detected.

"I think Mediterranean cuisine has a more light, balsamic vinegar dressing type quality about it, and a lot of herbs and aromatics, whereas Middle Eastern fare is a bit heavy with curry components to it."

She added that Turkish food incorporated more dill, parsley, cinnamon and allspice while Arabic cuisine used parsley, mint and cumin.

She also noticed that Lebanese restaurants served fresh salads, homous (chickpea puree with sesame oil) and tabouleh (Lebanese green salad), all standard fare at Middle Eastern restaurants.

Laksmi said of the restaurants to note, Anatolia and Al- Nafoura were up to scratch.

"They are modern, up-toned, stylish and cater to the demands of a more sophisticated and educated audience. They also have a mid-range wine list, which reflects the realization to cater to more educated and middle-class tastes and they are representative of this trend."

Sezas Zorlu, the head chef at the Anatolia and part owner of the Turkish Cafe, said he would rather classify Turkish food as coming from the "Ottoman kitchen", instead of Mediterranean or Middle Eastern cuisine.

He said the dishes were all about meat: "Meat and fish and meat and fish -- we hardly eat any chicken."

The food was mild as the spices were all natural and only from Turkey, which were brought out to the restaurants every three or four months, he said.

Deepak added that 80 percent of the ingredients were from Turkey, and even the chicken was imported.

"We don't go for quantity, we go for quality," Sezas added.

Executive sous chef at Le Meridien's Al-Nafoura restaurant Chahid Youness said that Lebanese food was found throughout the Mediterranean area in most surrounding countries of Lebanon, and it was almost the same as food from Turkey, with only the names of the dishes being different.

Best-selling items at Al-Nafoura are homous, tabouleh and shawarma, a main course dish of lamb or sliced marinated chicken with different spices, grilled and served with oriental rice or french fries at the restaurant, Youness said.

Guests enjoy the dry Lebanese wine and also black tea, which is bitter in taste, Youness said, adding that the wine's flavor and popularity at mealtimes was strongly influenced by the French during their colonial period in the country.

Another typical Lebanese beverage is arak, which is about 45 percent alcohol, and is made from grapes and anise seed, Youness said.

To properly cap off one's meal, an espresso cup of Lebanese coffee, a dark strong and bitter brew served with or without sugar, is brought to the table.

Youness said that coffee was de riguer in all Lebanese homes for visitors, whether it was requested or not.

With the wide variety of dishes in Lebanese cuisine, diners should take their time and reserve a minimum of two hours to enjoy their meal fully, he added. (Maria Kegel)