A taste of good, down-under Aussie tucker -- sort of
Broto Dharma, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta
Outback Steakhouse, Ratu Plaza, Jl. Jend. Sudirman, Tel. 725-2188. Hours: 12 p.m. - 2:30 p.m., 5 p.m. - 10 p.m. (weekdays) 12 p.m. - 11 p.m. (weekends)
The Outback Steakhouse is all about meat and potatoes -- or, rather, meat and chips, if we hold true to its everything-Aussie theme, which even extends to its restrooms, with their "Sheilas" and "Blokes" signs on the doors.
It has no pretensions to be "fine dining" in the French or nouvelle cuisine tradition, or even the fusion of tastes which has made Australia one of the most exciting locations for foodies.
Instead, it is intended to give us the experience of a down- home, food-fest from Down Under, all that sun and surf and the ad man's soft-focused image of outdoorsy, happy families throwing their shrimp-on-the-barbie, with the emphasis on meaty matters, from steak to chicken and even extending to pork.
The "extras" -- the chips (french fries to you Americans), veggies and salads -- are merely supporting players to the main event of the red stuff.
The restaurant, which opened in December, is located on the ground floor of Ratu Plaza, which has undergone a spectacular transformation from its tired, sorry state of the mid-1980s.
Outback occupies a corner position in the mall, which has allowed its planners to position a bar area immediately in front of the entrance, but never obtrusive to the diners sitting at booths and tables a step below.
During your reviewer's three visits to Outback, one attempt was made to sit at the al-fresco dining area out front. But, unless you like voracious killer flies the size of rats attacking your vittles and don't mind ear-blasting car calls for pak Slamet to come and pick up the missus from Carrefour every five seconds, then this spot is not recommended.
On our third trip to Outback, we chose a table in the main area. While not a large space, the comfortable booths and tables give the restaurant an open, airy feel.
The space between the booths and tables is small, but enough so that the diners can have a close conversation without being disturbed by the chatter of others.
The walls are decorated with all things Australian, from boomerangs to didgeridoos; there are plenty of photos of cuddly little animals that make Australia their home (but, thankfully, not occupying a spot on the menu).
When it came to service, the cynic in me was looking to pounce on that all-too-common affliction at Jakarta theme restaurants -- the touchy-feely attitude.
Thankfully, the Outback waiters, in their neat, collared T- shirts and jeans, are a young, attractive crew, and while they do have a tendency to hunker down and hang on your every word, it is not overbearing.
For appetizers (or Aussie-Tizers ... ouch!) on our most recent visit we plumped for the Bloomin' Onion (Rp 39, 900) and Kookaburra Wings (half-order Rp 25,900).
The onion, touted as an original from Russell's Marina Bay, was so overdone that it was soggy, with the assorted spices clumped together, and we did not care for the mustard dip.
By contrast, the wings, known as buffalo wings anywhere else, were still pink inside, which one of my three Australian dining companions sniffed was definitely not an Aussie culinary preference.
Thankfully, the appetizers were not a full indication of what lay ahead. And you really cannot go wrong with the Aussie Cheese Fries, the potatoes smothered in Monterey Jack and Cheddar cheeses, which I had tried previously, and found to be a filling -- not to mention sinful -- indulgence.
For our main courses, we went with the Outback special sirloin, a tender, 310-gram piece of beef (Rp 109,000); the Jackeroo Chops, which was actually one 225 gram pork chop (Rp 85, 900), and the Barbie Chook n' Bacon, a sandwich made of chicken breast served with beef bacon, Swiss cheese and all the trimmings (Rp 45,900).
We also tried the "No Rules Burger," a dish which allows you to basically go whole hog in choosing what toppings you want with your thick, juicy beef patty.
There were no complaints about the meats, which were pronounced well-cooked, excellent cuts.
However, we would have preferred a selection of hot sauces or gravy instead of the cold choices, and one of the diners came to understand that the mashed potatoes on offer were from instant (something may have been lost in the translation), which sounded none too appetizing.
We finished the meal satisfied, although admittedly a bit full for comfort (the desserts, such as sundaes and cheesecake, were strictly out of the question).
We then proceeded to verbally masticate over whether Outback Steakhouse is really dyed-in-the-wool Aussie cuisine. My three companions begged to differ, considering it a hearty, tasty take on the food of their homeland.
Conspicuously absent from the menu, however, were game dishes, even though meats like emu are highly popular back home.
One dining companion likened the experience to eating Australian cuisine prepared by a foreigner, like an American, where Outback first opened, and has been most popular, probably fueled by all that cutesy Crocodile Dundee sentiment.
But, if packing away a lot of meat is your idea of a good meal, whether you are Indonesian, or Australian, or American, then it's time to head to the Outback in Central Jakarta for a good feed. And, if you don't like the sound of that, they also have fish.
Outback Steakhouse, Ratu Plaza, Jl. Jend. Sudirman, Tel. 725-2188. Hours: 12 p.m. - 2:30 p.m., 5 p.m. - 10 p.m. (weekdays) 12 p.m. - 11 p.m. (weekends)