A stroll in leisurely Malang, with history on every corner

By Simon Marcus Gower

MALANG, East Java (JP): Entering Malang from north of the city one is greeted by a familiar smell. It is a common smell in the country, yet to have it hanging in the air over a whole area of a city is unusual.

It is the cloying fragrance of kretek cigarettes.

The reason becomes clear as one espies the first of many signs and advertisements for famous cigarette brands. Where some cities might have signs welcoming visitors, Malang here has street-wide banners proclaiming this as the "home" and source of millions of kretek cigarettes each year.

A translation of the Indonesian word malang is misfortune, and those in the antismoking lobby would suggest that Malang has the misfortune of being a major center of cigarette production. However, thousands of Malang residents may argue otherwise. The kretek factories employ thousands of locals and the dozens of trucks transporting the slim and sweetly fragranced cigarettes exemplify the massive scale of production, and indeed consumption, of these cigarettes.

Following some of these trucks into Malang, the straight road leads to the center of this small but growing city. With a huddle of significant volcanic mountains (Arjuna, Bromo, Butak and Kepolo) surrounding the city, Malang offers a cooler climate than most East Java locations. Its proximity to these volcanoes also makes it a noted stopover for climbers, mostly those sightseers making the journey to Bromo.

Malang seems to fit the description of a "stopover" city. It is a relatively modest city in terms of sights, but its compact center has a number of interesting sites all within easy walking distance or, if a more leisurely and relaxing mode of transport is required, within a becak (pedicab) ride of each other.

The center of the city is marked by a typical alun-alun (town square) known as Merdeka (freedom) Square. This wide, open space has a busy yet leisurely communal feel to it. The southern edge is filled with a variety of stalls selling everything from books to hats and audio cassettes, to construction and engineering tools. But most of the other three sides are clear, apart from occasional food sellers.

The centerpiece of the square is a modest fountain, and throughout the area there are numerous concrete benches where people from all walks of life take a break.

Near the town square are numerous architectural reminders of Malang as a place of Dutch colonial activities. Two churches stand nearby -- one of them a cathedral -- but regrettably, for security reasons, they are locked up for most of the week. Two hotels in the area (Riche and Pelangi) are interesting examples of colonial architecture, both exhibiting the kind of art deco designs that were so favored by the Dutch. But it is another Dutch art deco building that is, perhaps, the most remarkable and intriguing of Malang's colonial remnants.

Toko Oen

Only a two-minute walk from Merdeka Square, Toko Oen is a unique restaurant that was established in 1930 and, it seems, has changed little since. With its high ceiling, lethargic ceiling fans, piano in the corner and antique furniture, stepping into this restaurant is almost like traveling back in time.

The waiters wear white tunics and bring your order on an antique wheeled trolley. Toko Oen boasts good food, some delicious juice combinations and an ice cream palace and patisserie. The cumulative effect is to make one very comfortable. With live piano music and a gently fluttering candle upon each table it is easy to be transported back to those colonial days, and imagine colonial plantation owners sitting in these same chairs and enjoying similar culinary pleasures.

The throwing off of the shackles of colonialism is represented at the Brawijaya Military Museum on the city's famed tree-lined Jl. Ijen, formerly "Idjen Boulevard". In front of this exotically designed 1950s building there are tanks and antiaircraft guns mounted on pedestals. Within the building there are numerous exhibits displaying the arms and armory of the struggle for independence. Notable among this vast collection of weaponry is the commemoration of the prominent and vital role General Sudirman played in the battles for independence in East Java.

Among the tributes to Sudirman's memory is the recognition of the remarkable manner in which he fought despite suffering great illness. Photographs illustrate the huge crowds that gathered to honor him when tuberculosis finally overcame him in 1950.

The fight for independence is also commemorated in Malang by the town's Independence Monument, which is a black stone, needle- like in construction, that stands in front of the Balai Kota (town hall).

The town hall is itself notable, being the largest colonial building in Malang. Its symmetrical front, steeply gabled roofs and brilliant white walls create a pleasing picture for the eye and tell of the respect with which the building has been retained and maintained.

The Independence Monument lies at the center of the main thoroughfare in this part of town, Jl. Tugu. Again former colonial residences stand along this tree-lined avenue, but the heart of Jl. Tugu is the circular, landscaped commemorative park that surrounds the monument. The monument stands in the middle of a lily-pad covered pond with immaculately kept hedges, shrubs and lawns all around. This small park is a calming and respectful tribute to those that fought in East Java. Little disturbs the peace in this suburban area of town.

With the theme of independence so much in evidence here, it was quite ironic to see a small group of demonstrators marching to the Balai Kota; but the group of protesters did gather there to make their call for independence for Irian Jaya from Indonesia.

In the genteel settings of these tree-lined avenues an independence rally hardly looks like an act of rebellion. Instead it appears to be a pleasant afternoon stroll among friends. Police motorcyclists shepherding the marchers wear relaxed smiles and engage in friendly banter with the banner-carrying protesters. It seems that being residents of Malang has given them a good and calm temperament, and thus life in Malang is not a misfortune, but is, in fact, good fortune.