A stroll in leisurely Malang, with history on every corner
A stroll in leisurely Malang, with history on every corner
By Simon Marcus Gower
MALANG, East Java (JP): Entering Malang from north of the city
one is greeted by a familiar smell. It is a common smell in
the country, yet to have it hanging in the air over a whole area
of a city is unusual.
It is the cloying fragrance of kretek cigarettes.
The reason becomes clear as one espies the first of many signs
and advertisements for famous cigarette brands. Where some cities
might have signs welcoming visitors, Malang here has street-wide
banners proclaiming this as the "home" and source of millions of
kretek cigarettes each year.
A translation of the Indonesian word malang is misfortune, and
those in the antismoking lobby would suggest that Malang has the
misfortune of being a major center of cigarette production.
However, thousands of Malang residents may argue otherwise. The
kretek factories employ thousands of locals and the dozens of
trucks transporting the slim and sweetly fragranced cigarettes
exemplify the massive scale of production, and indeed
consumption, of these cigarettes.
Following some of these trucks into Malang, the straight road
leads to the center of this small but growing city. With a huddle
of significant volcanic mountains (Arjuna, Bromo, Butak and
Kepolo) surrounding the city, Malang offers a cooler climate
than most East Java locations. Its proximity to these volcanoes
also makes it a noted stopover for climbers, mostly those
sightseers making the journey to Bromo.
Malang seems to fit the description of a "stopover" city. It
is a relatively modest city in terms of sights, but its compact
center has a number of interesting sites all within easy walking
distance or, if a more leisurely and relaxing mode of
transport is required, within a becak (pedicab) ride
of each other.
The center of the city is marked by a typical alun-alun (town
square) known as Merdeka (freedom) Square. This wide, open space
has a busy yet leisurely communal feel to it. The southern edge
is filled with a variety of stalls selling everything from books
to hats and audio cassettes, to construction and engineering
tools. But most of the other three sides are clear, apart from
occasional food sellers.
The centerpiece of the square is a modest fountain, and
throughout the area there are numerous concrete benches where
people from all walks of life take a break.
Near the town square are numerous architectural reminders of
Malang as a place of Dutch colonial activities. Two churches
stand nearby -- one of them a cathedral -- but regrettably, for
security reasons, they are locked up for most of the week. Two
hotels in the area (Riche and Pelangi) are interesting examples
of colonial architecture, both exhibiting the kind of art deco
designs that were so favored by the Dutch. But it is another
Dutch art deco building that is, perhaps, the most remarkable and
intriguing of Malang's colonial remnants.
Toko Oen
Only a two-minute walk from Merdeka Square, Toko Oen is a
unique restaurant that was established in 1930 and, it seems, has
changed little since. With its high ceiling, lethargic ceiling
fans, piano in the corner and antique furniture, stepping into
this restaurant is almost like traveling back in time.
The waiters wear white tunics and bring your order on an
antique wheeled trolley. Toko Oen boasts good food, some
delicious juice combinations and an ice cream palace and
patisserie. The cumulative effect is to make one very
comfortable. With live piano music and a gently fluttering candle
upon each table it is easy to be transported back to those
colonial days, and imagine colonial plantation owners sitting in
these same chairs and enjoying similar culinary pleasures.
The throwing off of the shackles of colonialism is represented
at the Brawijaya Military Museum on the city's famed tree-lined
Jl. Ijen, formerly "Idjen Boulevard". In front of this exotically
designed 1950s building there are tanks and antiaircraft guns
mounted on pedestals. Within the building there are numerous
exhibits displaying the arms and armory of the struggle for
independence. Notable among this vast collection of weaponry is
the commemoration of the prominent and vital role General
Sudirman played in the battles for independence in East Java.
Among the tributes to Sudirman's memory is the recognition of
the remarkable manner in which he fought despite suffering great
illness. Photographs illustrate the huge crowds that gathered to
honor him when tuberculosis finally overcame him in 1950.
The fight for independence is also commemorated in Malang by
the town's Independence Monument, which is a black stone, needle-
like in construction, that stands in front of the Balai Kota
(town hall).
The town hall is itself notable, being the largest colonial
building in Malang. Its symmetrical front, steeply gabled roofs
and brilliant white walls create a pleasing picture for the
eye and tell of the respect with which the building has been
retained and maintained.
The Independence Monument lies at the center of the
main thoroughfare in this part of town, Jl. Tugu.
Again former colonial residences stand along this tree-lined
avenue, but the heart of Jl. Tugu is the circular, landscaped
commemorative park that surrounds the monument. The monument
stands in the middle of a lily-pad covered pond with immaculately
kept hedges, shrubs and lawns all around. This small park is a
calming and respectful tribute to those that fought in East Java.
Little disturbs the peace in this suburban area of town.
With the theme of independence so much in evidence here, it
was quite ironic to see a small group of demonstrators marching
to the Balai Kota; but the group of protesters did gather there
to make their call for independence for Irian Jaya from
Indonesia.
In the genteel settings of these tree-lined avenues an
independence rally hardly looks like an act of rebellion. Instead
it appears to be a pleasant afternoon stroll among friends.
Police motorcyclists shepherding the marchers wear relaxed smiles
and engage in friendly banter with the banner-carrying
protesters. It seems that being residents of Malang has given
them a good and calm temperament, and thus life in Malang is not
a misfortune, but is, in fact, good fortune.