Sun, 15 Aug 2004

A splendid dining journey through Bali

Rita A. Widiadana, The Jakarta Post/Denpasar

Dining in a romantic, serene garden surrounded by water lily and lotus ponds or in a beachfront open-air pavilion overlooking the great rolling waves of the Indian Ocean could be a perfect escape from your hectic days.

Other exclusive dining establishments are nestled in the secluded riverbank of the Ayung or tucked away in the lush forests of Ubud in Gianyar, just 25 kilometers north of Denpasar, the capital of Bali.

While the island has long been a magnet for travelers from around the globe thanks to its beautiful paddy fields, panoramic mountains, volcanoes, lakes, coastal lowlands and certainly its unique culture and tradition, it is also a gourmand's paradise, offering a heavenly atmosphere of culinary indulgements.

The island's best restaurants await you with a cornucopian array of dishes, from local Balinese specialties like bebek betutu (marinated duckling stuffed with herbs and spices, roasted in banana leaves) and lawar Bali (grated coconut mixed with spices and meats), to Japanese, Thai, Chinese and Indian cuisines -- not to mention world cuisines from Europe and the Mediterranean, to Middle Eastern and North African fare.

It doesn't matter where you stay, as its finest restaurants are spread across the island from Nusa Dua and Tanjung Benoa to Jimbaran Bay, from Kuta, Seminyak and Kerobokan to, of course, the artists' village of Ubud.

Almost all luxury resorts and villas have their own dining gems, while others are independent establishments, each with their own signature dishes and unique ambience to serve those seeking the best that dining has to offer.

"That is the real concept of fine dining," explained Gary Lloyd Rosen, executive chef at the newly opened Conrad Bali Resort and Spa in Tanjung Benoa, Nusa Dua, 20 kilometers south of Denpasar.

Fine dining is often misinterpreted as expensive dining, Rosen said. "(The term) was actually promoted by 'old' cuisine experts. It is no longer appropriate for the present dining trend," he said.

He defined two kinds of eating: When you have lunch in the middle of a work day, you are eating; when you take plenty of time and enjoy your food in a relaxed manner, you are dining.

Rosen asserted that Conrad's newest dining facility, Spice, would become one of the island's top-notch restaurants, with a menu of world cuisines designed to arouse culinary delight.

"I don't want to bother my guests' sensations and appetites with a 20-page menu. I want it simple, elegant, yet fascinating," he said.

Spice offers four different menus -- First, Second, Ocean and Tandoori. Each menu incorporates dishes from Middle, Near and Far Eastern cuisines, as well as Continental dishes.

"I can guarantee my elite clientele the best and most authentic dishes. When I cook pasta, it will taste as close as possible to home-cooked meals in an Italian village," he said.

Avoiding frilly garnishes, Rosen prepares his dishes in a minimalist display.

"It will always be served on an elegant, plain white plate without too much 'decoration', because this will distract people from the food."

When a dining guest visited Spice, he continued, they would be accorded the best the restaurant had to offer, including individualized services: "I want them to have an unforgettable dining experience here."

For those who love Japanese food, Ko, at the Intercontinental Bali Resort in Jimbaran, might be your top choice.

Blending Balinese architecture and Japanese aesthetics, Ko invites guests to partake of various Japanese dishes, from freshly prepared sushi and sashimi, to the more homey tempura noodles and rice dishes.

"The dining concept of Ko is divided into four styles to cater to our guests' preferences," said Intercontinental Bali public relations director Keke Hidayat.

Lovers of Mediterranean food, on the other hand, will feel at home at Sorrento in Hotel Melia Bali, Nusa Dua.

"I love spoiling my guests with modern, funky and tasty foods," said executive chef Matthew Wood.

Wood and his staff are currently reviewing the restaurant's menu to accommodate their guests' demands -- a departure from their exclusively Italian approach.

"Guests keep coming in from various countries in Europe, Asia and others," said Wood, underlining that the key to success was to make each guest feel special.

"Bali is different from Jakarta. Here, on the resort island, people want to relax. Fine dining is a therapeutic and soothing experience," Wood said.

The above restaurants are just a few of the island's treasures. Other dining venues of acclaim include:

* Taman Wantilan restaurant, Four Seasons Resort, Jimbaran

* Kafe Warisan (French), Kerobokan

* Ku De Ta, Oberoi, Seminyak

* Mozaic (modern international, Balinese), Ubud

* Padi (Indonesian), Ritz-Carlton, Jimbaran