A new elegance dawns in Jakarta, with commercial appeal

By Yogita Tahil Ramani

JAKARTA (JP): Sensuality floated through smatterings of black leaves on a cream slip dress. A turquoise-colored rose on the model's hair complemented a crepe gabardine spaghetti-strap dress in grape.

A black, knee-length wool skirt with a single three-quarter cut revealed to observers a delicate hint of thigh.

Designers flaunted this return to elegance and people basked in the approach that disclosed something, but did not tell everything, at a fashion show at Plaza Indonesia's La Moda Cafe, in Central Jakarta, last week.

Sebastian Gunawan, Stephanus Hamy, Biyan Wanaatmadja, Ghea Sukarya Panggabean and Poppy Dharsono all adopted this approach -- elegant wearability with commercial appeal -- and had it woven, embroidered, cut and wrapped around their ready-to-wears like an indigenous sheath underscoring their designs.

Silks, lace, georgette, stretch viscose, satins, chiffons and organzas were fashioned into an array of shades from basic black and creams, soft hues of pink, blues and greens to striking splashes of terracota, yellow and purple.

Biyan's latest Studio 133 collection of light-as-water cocktail slip dresses and destructured jackets were eye-catching.

With assistant Ronald Gaghana, a designer known for his sophisticated, albeit edgy designs, Biyan's themes were black, cream and lightness.

He had models catwalking in figure-hugging black stretch viscose gowns with cream surrounding the waistline, ankle-length cream pencil pants with embroideries of black leaves around them, jackets over tops with similar embroideries and knee-length skirts with single, superb cuts.

Ronald said that 40 percent of the material used for this collection was imported and on the whole, almost 75 percent of the recent Studio 133 collections have been made with local material.

"Prices of Studio 133 outfits have been hiked by 10 percent to 15 percent (already this year)... so if we go higher, we will not have buyers," Ronald said.

He explained that previous Studio 133 collections, known more for their exclusive designs than ready-to-wear styles to meet demands of more practical, career-oriented people, were a thing of the past.

"There is the elegance with these designs... both for informal and formal events."

Chic boatneck tops, graphic designs and knee-length skirts were Sebastian's order of the day, spelling out youth and practicality. In a sign of continuity from his previous Votum collection, designs were also in basic black and cream.

There were tops with beads in graphic, ultra-chic designs with lots of pants and knee-length skirts.

Sebastian said the black series of the collection used up local material alone, leaving beads as "the imported accessories to my designs."

"Graphics are done with beads at the hemline or as lined designs on tops," Sebastian said.

For his designs, each model had a scarf with a huge golden rose accessorizing the throat.

"Votum outfits in general are usually bought by the middle-to- upper classes. This collection's skirts and tops range from Rp 150,000 (US$17.50) to Rp 450,000."

Prices for most other outfits, excluding those in the Studio 133 collection which are priced at Rp 400,000 and above, range from Rp 150,000 to Rp 600,000.

In spite of the loud purples and turquoises, ivories and golds, Stephanus' collection sustained elegance with its simple designs. Poppy demonstrated hers through feather-light Chinese- styled pants and long, flaring tops with bell sleeves, in silks and chiffons.

With Indonesian motifs based on lurik from Java, ulos from Sumatra, tikar from Kalimantan style, jumputan (local dyes), Aceh prints and batiks in Ghea's designs and kebayas, the ethnic allure was not lost on audiences.