A look at smallest primates at Tangkoko

A look at smallest primates at Tangkoko

The following articles on this page were made possible through
the courtesy of the Hotel Santika Manado, Bouraq Airlines and
Manado-based Maya Express travel agency. The articles were
written by The Jakarta Post's Harry Bhaskara

TONGKAINA, Molas, North Sulawesi (JP): Our bus took a left
turn just as it approached the magnificent Bitung Port at the tip
of Sulawesi island. It headed toward Tangkoko natural reserve,
about one hour away.

This remaining leg of the day trip could have gone quicker if
the seven kilometers of road ahead -- out of some 20 kilometers
remaining -- were in good condition. They were not and the bus
had to skirt its way down the road to avoid the many potholes.

Close to Tangkoko the twin peaks of the Dua Saudara mountains
soared majestically as if they were right in front of our eyes,
showing off their beautiful greenish blue color.

The road ahead was full of bends. There were signs of newly
fallen trees on a number of slopes along the road. At one point,
a group of loggers were seen sitting on a side street taking a
rest.

Tangkoko is a small reserve about 9,000 hectares in size at
the northern tip of the 90-square-kilometer Minahasa regency in
North Sulawesi. It is located about 60 kilometers from the North
Sulawesi capital of Manado. The reserve encompasses three
volcanoes -- the twin peaks of Dua Saudara, which loom over the
busy port of Bitung, Tangkoko and Batuangus.

The day was getting late and our group of foreign and local
tourists planned to arrive at Tangkoko forest by 6 p.m. We left
the Hotel Santika Manado at close to 2 p.m.

Six p.m. is when the Sulawesi tarsiers, said to be the
smallest primate in the world, come out of hiding to look for
food.

Like many other destinations in this province, there were no
throngs of tourists. We arrived at the gate of the Tangkoko
reserve all alone, just like the locals coming home from a
shopping trip in Manado.

After our guide made certain we all rubbed our feet and hands
with mosquito-repellent tissues, we headed for the reserve on
foot. Because the forest lies along the coast near Bitung, we
could hear the waves roaring. This explains why we were hot and
perspiring despite being surrounded by trees: Tangkoko is a
coastal reserve forest close to the highlands.

The time was 5 p.m. and one hour later we stopped in front of
a huge tree in the dense forest. The ranger who accompanied us
pointed his finger at the tree, and as we all strained our eyes
in the rapidly falling darkness we were able to see two tarsiers
sitting in the branches.

Their bodies measured about 15 centimeters in length and they
had long tails. They did not look that impressive with their
light brown skin, but it was unique to see a primate of this
size.

As we made noise the tarsiers took refuge in the tree trunk,
where they normally sleep during the day. The distinct alarm-like
sound of forest insects at sunset is said to be their wake-up
call to look for food. And they eat the very insects that awake
them.

A few minutes later the tarsiers reappeared. This time we were
more prepared and let them jump into the nearby tree branches.
World-class athletes would have been envious of such leaps, so
fast it appeared they were flying rather than jumping. We were
barely able to follow them.

As soon as we spotted one of them in the dark we turned our
flashlights on it and it sat where it was, unmoving. We quietly
stepped in to get a closer view and there it was in all its
glory. It stared blankly at us, hypnotized by the flashlights.

We went further into the forest to look for a giant spider
that lives in the split of a massive tree trunk. The spider,
named Tarantula by locals, measures about 30 centimeters in
diameter and is said to be very poisonous.

If we had arrived at the forest earlier, we could have seen
the big and colorful Sulawesi hornbill, tailless black monkeys,
white-necked mynas and other spectacular birds.

The trip to the forest ended and we took another one-hour walk
back to the bus before heading back to the Hotel Santika, which
took us another two and a half hours.

It is possible to spend the night in Tangkoko and go trekking
in the mountains in the morning. A very basic but clean cottage
and good food is available for those who wish to pursue this
option.