A local drop of Balinese cheer
A local drop of Balinese cheer
By Debe Campbell
DENPASAR, Bali (JP): The Balinese have brewed wine from rice
and palm juice for centuries, but recently grapes have entered
the recipe in a big way.
Increasing duties and taxes on imported wine have pushed it
off many a wine-lover's table. Even if they do pop for a bottle,
swillers often find the wine was transported under improper
conditions and has oxidized or is ruined.
So it was, over an off-bottle of wine, that some Australian
visitors began kicking around the idea of squeezing locally grown
grapes into an affordable, enjoyable Balinese vintage.
A natural partnership was struck with Australian ideas and
viniculture and Balinese experience, found at the Fa Udiyana Bali
Brem Rice Wine factory, owned by the Gotama family. Thus, Hatten
Wine was born.
Processing equipment, grape presses, crushers and filter
systems were imported. Storage tanks were locally fabricated. And
French winemaker Vincent Desplat relocated from Australia to get
down to business.
Grape winemaking is not really new in Bali. Several cottage
industries among the north coast vineyards brew a rough, red
wine. And several newcomers, such as Indigo, are turning up the
competition.
Bali's Alphonse Lavallee table grapes were not intended for
wine.
They came to North Bali with settlers, probably brought from
the highlands of Probolingo, East Java. Singaraja has since been
the island's grape-growing center. Irrigated with fresh mountain
water, the vineyards cover 500 hectares, grown in pergolas to
protect them from the sun and rain.
Tropical conditions allow 2.5 crops of grapes a year, which
means the fruit is available almost all year round. Hatten
originally envisioned one vintage yearly. Rose is a young summer
wine, made to drink, not to cellar or save. So it made more sense
to bottle frequently.
Thus, the winery works seven days a week, processing several
smaller vintages throughout the year. Served well-chilled, Hatten
has a light, refreshing taste and light rose tint, derived from
the black grape skin.
Hatten targeted tourists from the outset and positioned itself
to compete with imported wine. Since imported wines are not
consistently available and are always pricey, Hatten guarantees
availability and reasonable cost. Since its launch in mid-1994,
Hatten continues to gain increasing acceptance on the local
market. It now is available in hotels throughout Bali, Java and
Sulawesi.
As you sample all the delights that Bali has to offer, add a
sip of Bali's first homegrown commercial wine to round out the
list. Cheers!