A journey to Surakarta -- it's nice and easy

Text and photos by Kartika Bagus C.

SURAKARTA, Central Java (JP): The city of Surakarta, or Solo, is a seat of nobility and culture in Java, offering visitors glimpses of a bygone era when the palace held sway over the area, ruling with elegance and refinement.

For those visiting the city, there are numerous royal events, festivals and exhibitions on offer. The two most important such events are the Bengawan Solo Fair (BSF) and the Sekaten, which is a ritual to remove evil and restore balance in life.

The BSF and Sekaten, however, are held according to the Javanese calendar, so their dates cannot be definitely fixed in advance. The highlight of the BSF is the coronation day celebration of King Pakoe Boewono XII, while Sekaten reaches its peak on Garebeg Maulud, which is the commemoration of Prophet Muhammad's birthday.

The uncertainty of the dates of the two events is due to the 11-day difference between the Javanese calendar and the Gregorian calendar, which means the events are held on different days each year.

"It makes it difficult to compile a fixed timetable of major celebrations for tourists," said Febria Roekmi Evy, the head of the Surakarta tourism office.

Nonetheless, these court events are popular with both local and foreign tourists, with foreign visitors, particularly Europeans, mostly visiting Surakarta in June, July and August, when it's summer in their countries.

Those who wish to take home typically Surakarta souvenirs can visit several handicraft and gift centers, such as Pujasari on Jl. Slamet Riyadi, which has a large selection of souvenirs and traditional foods from Surakarta.

It is also worthwhile to stroll through the city's northern square, where vendors sell kris, gemstones and other souvenirs.

Another potential tourist site is Pasar Klewer, said to be the largest textile market in Central Java and one which has become associated with the city. It is famous for the wide range of batik and other traditional fabrics on sale, which draw buyers from all over the country, particularly eastern Indonesia.

Although many have called for the market to be improved to accommodate foreign tourists, particularly because it lies in the center of the city near the Grand Mosque and the Palace, it remains crowded and difficult to navigate. Visitors will need a strong sense of adventure.

The city boasts a large number of lodgings and hotels, from traditional to star-rated hotels, with the rates varying from tens of thousands to millions of rupiah a night. And for those who wish to enjoy a local touch, there are "home-stays" located throughout the city.

There are numerous buses and taxis in the city to ferry visitors wherever they wish to go. And for a more relaxed look at Surakarta, there are becak (pedicabs) and andhong (horse carts), which are not only less expensive but also a somewhat more exciting means of transport for those accustomed to getting everywhere by car or bus.

Communication should not be a problem, as most pedicab drivers, taxi drivers and coachmen take English courses organized by the tourism office and the Association of Indonesian Travel Agencies (ASITA).

"We provide routine guidance and training for them, especially in the command of English for routine communication in serving foreigners," said Febria Roekmi.

For those planning a trip to Surakarta, the city is accessible by both air and land. Garuda Indonesia has three daily flights connecting Surakarta and Jakarta.

And the city has become even more accessible by air with Adi Sumarmo airfield having recently been upgraded to an international airport. Silk Air now has flights connecting Surakarta and Singapore, while two local airlines, Mandala and Merpati, have flights linking Surakarta and Jakarta.

"Malaysia's airline is scheduled to begin operating the Solo- Malaysia route in August, and another airline in Taipei is now finalizing arrangements to open air links with Solo," said Seseno Hadiparwono, the chairman of ASITA.

Surakarta can also be reached by bus or railroad, with dozens of buses and trains connecting Surakarta with Jakarta and several other major cities.