A hike for the hardy along Mt. Merapi

By Ahmad Solikhan

KALIURANG, Yogyakarta (JP): The sun is not out yet and dark bathes the pine forest. Flashlights point the way along the footpath.

A local guide is at the helm as six foreign tourists, wearing warm clothing and sneakers and carrying backpacks, walk one after another along the foot of Mt, Merapi, 25 km north of Yogyakarta.

It is peaceful and the weather is cool. The silence of the morning is broken only by their panting, and the thumping and squealing of their shoes.

Hailing from France, Switzerland, Britain, Holland and Australia, these tourists are trekking along the foot of the southern part of Mt. Merapi.

Merapi is one of the world's most active volcanoes. Strato in shape, the volcano, whose height has varied measurements (the latest determination was 2,965 meters above sea level), continues to belch lava.

In the monsoon season, the dome-like mass of lava forming at the top often crashes into the crater, and later spews out hot gas.

The gas wafts around the volcano and burns virtually everything in sight. In 1984, scores of residents, livestock and plants at the foot of Mt. Merapi were scorched to death.

Despite its dangers, Mt. Merapi has a pristine charm which appeals to nature lovers.

During the dry season, when the volcano is safe to visit, mountaineers are permitted to go to the top of the mountain. Come the monsoon season, however, and trekking is permitted only to the farthest end of Gamblok forest.

Vogel Hostel in Kaliurang organizes a regular trekking expedition along the foot of Mt. Merapi, charging Rp 8,000 per person.

Trips usually begin at 3 a.m.

A guide briefs participants for 15 minutes about the volcano and the route. Every participant is required to wear sneakers, a jacket and bring water and snacks.

The six-kilometer trek begins with a walk up the Pronodjiwo Hill toward a protected forest, the gateway to what is officially termed Danger Zone I. It proceeds to Miji and Mlangan forests and then toward Boyong River, which flows through Gamblok forest. From here, it is only two kilometers to the top of Mt. Merapi.

The two-hour journey is interrupted by a 15-minute rest in a pine forest.

At this stage, one still cannot enjoy the full beauty of the panorama as the sun is still behind Merapi. But there is the definite sense of being at the foot of a mountain from the cool air and the steep footpaths. Deep ravines on both sides of the footpath may be concealed from sight, but trekkers know they are there.

A few minutes after arriving on the banks of Boyong River, the sunlight starts to penetrate darkness, piercing the white fog covering the top of Merapi. The peak looks reddish, and there is a cavity along the mountain's wall through which lava flows.

This forms a river that finds its way along the foot of Merapi and flows where the trekkers rest. Local people call this Boyong River, the upstream of Code River which flows through the city of Yogyakarta.

When the sky is clear, there is the enthralling sight from Yogyakarta of the red-hot lava flowing down the walls of Merapi. During the day, the flow has a grayish hue as it is covered by smoke.

The face of Merapi is a combination of green and gray, their distinction most visible if seen from afar. Clumps of small trees which make the face of the mountain green disappear at the top.

Occasionally, a rare Javanese eagle nests in the holes at the face of Merapi. Locals say only three eagles remain there. When these eagles leave their nests, villagers on the slope of the mountain know that the volcano will spew hot gas.

If the volume of gas is still minor, trekkers may walk along the Boyong River.

The lava here is no longer hot, but warm and harmless.

On the return journey, trekkers have to jump along the boulders, churned out by the volcano and which form a winding path toward the original route.

By the time they reach Miji forest, they are aware of the breathtakingly deep ravines flanking the same footpaths they had walked through earlier in the dark morning.

At the pine forest, the jungle starts to stir.

Gray-furred wild monkeys hang gleefully from the branches of pine trees. Matin birds chirp merrily. There is also the odd encounter with local people collecting wood.

Next on the agenda is another break at a small coffee stall some five kilometers from the top of the volcano. The stall, made of bamboo and sugar cane leaves, is owned by Vogel Hostel.

Traditional Yogyakarta snacks are served warm on banana leaves with sweetened black tea.

The rippling sound of Boyong River flowing along the side of the stall adds to the naturalness of the atmosphere.

From here you can see a green expanse of plants covering the foot of Merapi. Sometimes visible are cowherds and goatherds, and villagers collecting firewood and grass for their livestock.

"I am happy with pure nature here," said Elizabeth Laine, one of the six trekkers.

She is conducting research on birds in Java and Bali and used the short expedition to collect data for her research.

Christian Awuy, who manages the trekking tour, said some 200 foreign tourists participate each month. During the holiday season between July and September, the number can swell to 800.

Awuy pioneered the trip after opening the footpath himself in 1983.

The route is listed in the tourist guidebook, Lonely Planet, by Peter Turner. Information is also available from hotels and travel agencies in Yogyakarta.

But the trekking should only be undertaken by those who are fit. The distance may be short, but it is marked by rough terrain and uphill footpaths.