A hike for the hardy along Mt. Merapi

A hike for the hardy along Mt. Merapi

By Ahmad Solikhan

KALIURANG, Yogyakarta (JP): The sun is not out yet and dark
bathes the pine forest. Flashlights point the way along the
footpath.

A local guide is at the helm as six foreign tourists, wearing
warm clothing and sneakers and carrying backpacks, walk one after
another along the foot of Mt, Merapi, 25 km north of Yogyakarta.

It is peaceful and the weather is cool. The silence of the
morning is broken only by their panting, and the thumping and
squealing of their shoes.

Hailing from France, Switzerland, Britain, Holland and
Australia, these tourists are trekking along the foot of the
southern part of Mt. Merapi.

Merapi is one of the world's most active volcanoes. Strato in
shape, the volcano, whose height has varied measurements (the
latest determination was 2,965 meters above sea level), continues
to belch lava.

In the monsoon season, the dome-like mass of lava forming at
the top often crashes into the crater, and later spews out hot
gas.

The gas wafts around the volcano and burns virtually
everything in sight. In 1984, scores of residents, livestock and
plants at the foot of Mt. Merapi were scorched to death.

Despite its dangers, Mt. Merapi has a pristine charm which
appeals to nature lovers.

During the dry season, when the volcano is safe to visit,
mountaineers are permitted to go to the top of the mountain. Come
the monsoon season, however, and trekking is permitted only to
the farthest end of Gamblok forest.

Vogel Hostel in Kaliurang organizes a regular trekking
expedition along the foot of Mt. Merapi, charging Rp 8,000 per
person.

Trips usually begin at 3 a.m.

A guide briefs participants for 15 minutes about the volcano
and the route. Every participant is required to wear sneakers, a
jacket and bring water and snacks.

The six-kilometer trek begins with a walk up the Pronodjiwo
Hill toward a protected forest, the gateway to what is officially
termed Danger Zone I. It proceeds to Miji and Mlangan forests and
then toward Boyong River, which flows through Gamblok forest.
From here, it is only two kilometers to the top of Mt. Merapi.

The two-hour journey is interrupted by a 15-minute rest in a
pine forest.

At this stage, one still cannot enjoy the full beauty of the
panorama as the sun is still behind Merapi. But there is the
definite sense of being at the foot of a mountain from the cool
air and the steep footpaths. Deep ravines on both sides of the
footpath may be concealed from sight, but trekkers know they are
there.

A few minutes after arriving on the banks of Boyong River, the
sunlight starts to penetrate darkness, piercing the white fog
covering the top of Merapi. The peak looks reddish, and there is
a cavity along the mountain's wall through which lava flows.

This forms a river that finds its way along the foot of Merapi
and flows where the trekkers rest. Local people call this Boyong
River, the upstream of Code River which flows through the city of
Yogyakarta.

When the sky is clear, there is the enthralling sight from
Yogyakarta of the red-hot lava flowing down the walls of Merapi.
During the day, the flow has a grayish hue as it is covered by
smoke.

The face of Merapi is a combination of green and gray, their
distinction most visible if seen from afar. Clumps of small trees
which make the face of the mountain green disappear at the top.

Occasionally, a rare Javanese eagle nests in the holes at the
face of Merapi. Locals say only three eagles remain there. When
these eagles leave their nests, villagers on the slope of the
mountain know that the volcano will spew hot gas.

If the volume of gas is still minor, trekkers may walk along
the Boyong River.

The lava here is no longer hot, but warm and harmless.

On the return journey, trekkers have to jump along the
boulders, churned out by the volcano and which form a winding
path toward the original route.

By the time they reach Miji forest, they are aware of the
breathtakingly deep ravines flanking the same footpaths they had
walked through earlier in the dark morning.

At the pine forest, the jungle starts to stir.

Gray-furred wild monkeys hang gleefully from the branches of
pine trees. Matin birds chirp merrily. There is also the odd
encounter with local people collecting wood.

Next on the agenda is another break at a small coffee stall
some five kilometers from the top of the volcano. The stall, made
of bamboo and sugar cane leaves, is owned by Vogel Hostel.

Traditional Yogyakarta snacks are served warm on banana leaves
with sweetened black tea.

The rippling sound of Boyong River flowing along the side of
the stall adds to the naturalness of the atmosphere.

From here you can see a green expanse of plants covering the
foot of Merapi. Sometimes visible are cowherds and goatherds, and
villagers collecting firewood and grass for their livestock.

"I am happy with pure nature here," said Elizabeth Laine, one
of the six trekkers.

She is conducting research on birds in Java and Bali and used
the short expedition to collect data for her research.

Christian Awuy, who manages the trekking tour, said some 200
foreign tourists participate each month. During the holiday
season between July and September, the number can swell to 800.

Awuy pioneered the trip after opening the footpath himself in
1983.

The route is listed in the tourist guidebook, Lonely Planet,
by Peter Turner. Information is also available from hotels and
travel agencies in Yogyakarta.

But the trekking should only be undertaken by those who are
fit. The distance may be short, but it is marked by rough terrain
and uphill footpaths.