A day in the life of a Taman Lawang transvestite

Yeyen, 27, has been working as a prostitute in the well-known pick up area of Taman Lawang, Central Jakarta, and in other Asian cities, for over 10 years. Born in Palembang, South Sumatra, her goal is to eventually open a hair salon and undergo a sex change operation. Yeyen lives alone in Menteng Atas, South Jakarta. She spoke to The Jakarta Post's William Furney.

"I live in a boarding house and wake up at about 12 p.m. most days. Straightaway, I go outside and get something to eat from the warung. After that, I go back to my room to rest for the afternoon. It's quite humble, my room, but it's OK just for one person. I've got a television and like to watch entertainment programs. There are lots of people I'm friends with there and we usually spend the afternoons sitting around chatting about this and that.

Before I came to Jakarta, I worked in a salon in Palembang. I liked it but I wasn't earning enough. Friends told me I could earn a lot of money in Taman Lawang in Jakarta.

So, I began working there as a prostitute in 1990. I work every night except for Mondays, when I take a rest. The first time I came here I was scared, but friends told me it'd be all right. I have between three and 10 clients a night now, some of them are very wealthy and well-known. Among my regulars is a government minister. Friday and Saturday nights are the busiest.

When clients come by, they either want to go to a motel, stay in their cars or go down the street somewhere. They're either Indonesians or foreigners, but mostly Indonesians. The youngest client I've had was only 16.

Since I was very small, I knew I wanted to be a woman. Physically, I'm a man, but I dress and act like a woman all the time. In my mind, I know I'm a woman at heart.

I take a taxi to Taman Lawang at 10 p.m. and I'll work until about 3 a.m. or 4 a.m., depending on how busy it is. I go home by taxi too.

I've had lots of bad experiences with clients, but I don't get any trouble from the police. Nowadays, I won't go with someone who looks like they'll be trouble later on.

The other prostitutes here are from all over Indonesia, including Java, Sulawesi and Sumatra. There are lots of them.

Sometimes there are some really ugly people I go with and it's a bit difficult for me. But I do it for the money. I prefer Indonesian men to foreigners and have a lot of clients who are into all sorts of kinky and weird sex. Some of them like licking, for example. But if I don't want to do it, I'll tell them and usually it's not a problem. But sometimes they'll offer more money and I might do what they want.

I'm not worried about AIDS or any other sex-related conditions. I take precautions and there's a health group in Ancol especially for ladyboys. Once a month, I go there to have my blood checked and so far I've had no problems healthwise.

I love wearing long, sexy dresses, like the one I have on now. I dress like this during the day and sometimes have some trouble on the street. People say 'look at the transvestite', but I don't get angry; I just ignore them and keep going.

I've been to Singapore and Malaysia three times. A friend of mine works in Paris; she's got a house there. I've got other friends who work in Germany and the Netherlands and they make a lot of money.

Usually, I make less than Rp 200,000 a night. Foreigners pay more than Indonesians. I charge Rp 50,000 for oral sex in a client's car and about Rp 150,000 if the client wants to go to a motel. If I go to a motel, it'll be for an hour or so.

I like doing this work and see no shame in it, but I get tired.

I'm supporting my sister, who's studying at a university in Palembang. I send my family Rp 500,000 a month. My father died a few years ago and it's just my mother, two sisters and two brothers there now. They all know what I do for a living and they don't mind at all. They understand, and I think they're proud because I can send them money.

If I had a choice, I'd like to work in a salon. I want to have my own someday, and when I have enough money I'll open one. That's my dream. But I'll go to Paris before that, when I've got US$2,000; maybe in three months.

It's becoming harder to make money though. There are many bad ladyboys here now. They've come from outside of Jakarta and we have to compete with them. But at Taman Lawang, we have a leader who looks after us and keeps our areas.

I don't have a boyfriend now. Before, I lived with a businessman. We were together for four years and lived just like a husband and wife. But I guess he didn't want that any more and we split.

When I get home in the morning, at about three or four, I clean myself up and take my hormone pills. Now I'm a ladyboy, but I want to be a woman. I take five pills, which I get from my doctor. He understands my situation and is helping me. I've been taking hormones for six years, but my body hasn't changed that much. I don't really have breasts; it'll take a lot longer and eventually I'll have to have them surgically implanted. I want to have it done in Thailand, not because it's cheaper -- it costs about Rp 10 million both here and in Thailand -- but because it's better there. I have some friends who have had it done here and the results are not good. If I want to have a sex change operation, it'll cost about Rp 40 million, but that includes the breasts.

It's what I want. However, if I never have enough money for it, it wouldn't be the end of the world. It's not as though I feel trapped in a man's body. I'm happy the way I am, but would be happier if I was a whole woman.

I'm Muslim and I believe in Allah. I don't think He thinks I'm a bad person and it's wrong to be doing what I do. I'm sure He loves me for what I am.

It's a while before I'm ready for bed. I'll just potter around and maybe watch some television for a while. It's usually about 5 a.m. when I get to bed. I think about my life and what tomorrow will bring. I don't have that many problems, but I do think a lot about how to get a husband, someone who'll be my lover and will understand me."