A corner for good java at Dome

JAKARTA (JP): It's the oft-heard complaint of longtime residents of the capital -- where to find a good place for a cup of coffee and conversation without having to fight for mirror space with the posers.

At the risk of making a sweeping generalization, most of the city's cafes are so-so ventures into the domain of style, not substance. Food and drinks are usually sorely overpriced and the food preparation, as tired an effort as the decor, is an over-the-top grasping for something avant garde and unique. More often than not, they cross the line into kitsch or overblown poor taste.

Of course, there are exceptions. Koffee Klatsch in Plaza Senayan is one, with a stunning array of coffees from various points around the globe, their acidity and flavor outlined on the menu for the discerning lover of java (although the food, good as it is, runs to the nouveau and may not be enough for hearty appetites).

For those with lots of the green stuff in their pockets, William Kafe Artistik in Kebayoran Baru cannot be beaten. Perched in its own exclusive ivory tower away from the smog and madding traffic below, it is a beautiful, stylish, comfortable, classy refuge. Of course, a part of its attraction is it's exclusivity; prospective patrons must call ahead for the restaurant to be opened and the menu items start at Rp 200,000 each. Too pricey for many of us, but the ideal location to splurge for an intimate gathering.

On this night, Epicurus and friend set out for a late night snack and coffee a little after 10 p.m., when most cafes have long closed their doors and the only choices left are the city's hotels.

But we found one: Dome, the new coffee house and restaurant in the revitalized Ratu Plaza.

"The coffee's great but I don't think the food is anything to write home about," my friend whispered conspiratorially as we entered.

Of course, Dome's reputation precedes it. Anyone who has made frequent visits to Singapore will be aware of its namesake along Orchard Road, a stunning cafe in the round bathed in a torrent of light.

Dome in Ratu Plaza, although no comparison to its Singaporean predecessor, is in a pleasant-enough location, a glass-fronted L- shaped room which also has seating outside. We took a table by one of the front windows and inspected the menu.

Main features are sandwiches, pasta and other dishes which are perfect for light lunches and evening snacks. Our waiter was friendly, English-speaking and eager to please, but an inquiry as to whether changes could be made in dishes was dismissed with a rueful smile.

We settled on a pasta dish (the name of which Epicurus cannot remember but that is of no consequence, as will become apparent later) and a pizza with vegetables and diced chicken. Drinks were coffee and cappuccino.

Aforesaid friend was right about the coffee, a heavenly, rich brew which is bound to become a good friend to the city's night owls. The pizza came a few minutes later, heaped with vegetables, cheese and chunks of chicken breast.

After a few minutes wait, we tucked in and the pizza disappeared. It was a good, medium-thin crust, and the chef was suitably generous with the ingredients. Still, the wait went on for the pasta, which was nowhere in sight.

As it was now nearing 11 p.m., we asked again about the missing pasta; it turned out the waiter had not heard our order, perhaps lost in the garbled mishmash of our English and Indonesian.

To save time, we settled for another pizza, this time vegetarian, and also delectable. It was nearing closing time but we managed to fit in a couple more cups of the outstanding coffee.

Dome's major draw on this night was that it was a great place to sit and unwind, without having to crane our necks to find a waiter. While the place was not dead (about four other tables were occupied), it was quiet and we could hear ourselves speak. Dome is a great location for a pleasant evening of conversation over coffee and snacks, although be sure to state your order loud and clear.

-- Epicurus