A challenging route to Borobudur's Buddhist temple
By Ahmad Solikhan
MAGELANG, Central Java (JP): Borobudur temple, one of the seven wonders of the world, has been visited by millions of people.
However, for most people the real meaning of the monument, built in the eighth century during the Syailendra dynasty, remains obscure.
Its approximately 1,500-meter-long walls are adorned by no less than 1,460 reliefs depicting tales related to human lives. Examining these relief to gain a better understanding of this Buddhist temple might take longer than a week. Thus, many people opt for the easier appreciation of its exterior textural beauty and the surrounding landscape, rather than dwelling on the seemingly boring texts of the reliefs.
One's appreciation of Borobudur's splendor will likely be enhanced by taking part in special programs such as the Borobudur Trek, arranged by a travel agency in Prawirataman, Yogyakarta, for US$25 per person. The trek unveils the enchanting panorama en route to the temple.
The challenging journey starts from Suralaya on Menoreh hill in Kulonprogo regency.
An orientation briefing by the guide is given 30 minutes prior to departure, so trekkers are recommended to arrive early. Those taking part in the trek are also recommended to bring along snacks and drinks, as they will walk quite a distance before arriving at a food stall.
The adventure begins at 4 a.m., with the trekkers being taken by minibus from Yogyakarta to Suralaya. From there they take a stony footpath from the hill, where clean air is assured. The walk along the path is highlighted by the spectacular sight of green expanses of paddy fields, with mountains and dense fog partly obscuring the sunrise.
The seven-kilometer route, taking about 90 minutes to walk, offers a splendid view of the sun climbing behind Mt. Merapi and Mt. Merbabu, the mountains bordering Yogyakarta and Central Java. Shrouded in mist, the summits of Mt. Sumbing, Mt. Slamet and Mt. Sindoro add to the early morning beauty.
From a distance, the figure of the gigantic Borobudur temple, designed by Mpu (master craftsman) Gunadharma, is seen blanketed by the morning mist.
Suralaya is at an altitude of 900 meters above sea level. Villagers in Gerbosari, Samigaluh (Kulonprogo), believe that the spirit of Gunadharma lies sleeping on Menoreh hill.
The trekkers continue walking on the pathway, the local people's main route for collecting cattle feed and firewood. After four kilometers, the guide leads you to a small stall set up by the travel agency. Sweet tea served in earthenware cups and traditional foods like boiled bananas and sweet potatoes are served on banana leaves.
This stall, built and furnished by the agency, is managed by local residents. Minah, 40, a housewife with two children who attends the stall, said the travel agency supplied all the money to buy the food, and that she earned between Rp 5,000 and Rp 10,000 for every Rp 50,000 in capital provided by the agency.
The trekkers descend from Suralaya half an hour later, reaching Borobudur at exactly 8 a.m. They are given 90 minutes to enjoy the temple complex, being charged extra if they ask to spend more time at the temple.
Most of those who have made the trek have nothing but good things to say about the experience.
Ole Thomas, 28, of Norway described the panorama from Menoreh hill as "superb". The landscape reminded him of a previous trip to Mt. Bromo in East Java. "I've never seen such a great landscape in Norway," he said.
Monique van Buuren, 25, and Rudi van Eno, 35, of Holland said Borobudur looked even more wonderful from Suralaya. "The white fog and green woods enhance its appeal. I'll be back some time later," remarked Van Buuren, who resides in California.
The trekking program was started five years ago by Gembong Sigit, 30, when he led a group of local and foreign tourists to the temple. Attracted by the beauty of Menoreh, he walked the route several times, discovering the beauty of the surrounding land at dawn.
This prompted him to open a travel bureau in Prawirataman, offering people the opportunity to visit Borobudur via the rural route.
"I decided to launch the Borobudur trekking package," said Sigit, who also runs the nonprofit organization Anak Wayang, which helps neglected children.
Sigit's trekking package has also provided job opportunities for local residents, who sell the tourists souvenirs.
The regional administration has so far not shown an interest in opening up this route to Borobudur by providing adequate infrastructure.