A challenging route to Borobudur's Buddhist temple

A challenging route to Borobudur's Buddhist temple

By Ahmad Solikhan

MAGELANG, Central Java (JP): Borobudur temple, one of the
seven wonders of the world, has been visited by millions of
people.

However, for most people the real meaning of the monument,
built in the eighth century during the Syailendra dynasty,
remains obscure.

Its approximately 1,500-meter-long walls are adorned by no
less than 1,460 reliefs depicting tales related to human lives.
Examining these relief to gain a better understanding of this
Buddhist temple might take longer than a week. Thus, many people
opt for the easier appreciation of its exterior textural beauty
and the surrounding landscape, rather than dwelling on the
seemingly boring texts of the reliefs.

One's appreciation of Borobudur's splendor will likely be
enhanced by taking part in special programs such as the Borobudur
Trek, arranged by a travel agency in Prawirataman, Yogyakarta,
for US$25 per person. The trek unveils the enchanting panorama en
route to the temple.

The challenging journey starts from Suralaya on Menoreh hill
in Kulonprogo regency.

An orientation briefing by the guide is given 30 minutes prior
to departure, so trekkers are recommended to arrive early. Those
taking part in the trek are also recommended to bring along
snacks and drinks, as they will walk quite a distance before
arriving at a food stall.

The adventure begins at 4 a.m., with the trekkers being taken
by minibus from Yogyakarta to Suralaya. From there they take a
stony footpath from the hill, where clean air is assured. The
walk along the path is highlighted by the spectacular sight of
green expanses of paddy fields, with mountains and dense fog
partly obscuring the sunrise.

The seven-kilometer route, taking about 90 minutes to walk,
offers a splendid view of the sun climbing behind Mt. Merapi and
Mt. Merbabu, the mountains bordering Yogyakarta and Central Java.
Shrouded in mist, the summits of Mt. Sumbing, Mt. Slamet and Mt.
Sindoro add to the early morning beauty.

From a distance, the figure of the gigantic Borobudur temple,
designed by Mpu (master craftsman) Gunadharma, is seen blanketed
by the morning mist.

Suralaya is at an altitude of 900 meters above sea level.
Villagers in Gerbosari, Samigaluh (Kulonprogo), believe that the
spirit of Gunadharma lies sleeping on Menoreh hill.

The trekkers continue walking on the pathway, the local
people's main route for collecting cattle feed and firewood.
After four kilometers, the guide leads you to a small stall set
up by the travel agency. Sweet tea served in earthenware cups and
traditional foods like boiled bananas and sweet potatoes are
served on banana leaves.

This stall, built and furnished by the agency, is managed by
local residents. Minah, 40, a housewife with two children who
attends the stall, said the travel agency supplied all the money
to buy the food, and that she earned between Rp 5,000 and Rp
10,000 for every Rp 50,000 in capital provided by the agency.

The trekkers descend from Suralaya half an hour later,
reaching Borobudur at exactly 8 a.m. They are given 90 minutes to
enjoy the temple complex, being charged extra if they ask to
spend more time at the temple.

Most of those who have made the trek have nothing but good
things to say about the experience.

Ole Thomas, 28, of Norway described the panorama from Menoreh
hill as "superb". The landscape reminded him of a previous trip
to Mt. Bromo in East Java. "I've never seen such a great
landscape in Norway," he said.

Monique van Buuren, 25, and Rudi van Eno, 35, of Holland said
Borobudur looked even more wonderful from Suralaya. "The white
fog and green woods enhance its appeal. I'll be back some time
later," remarked Van Buuren, who resides in California.

The trekking program was started five years ago by Gembong
Sigit, 30, when he led a group of local and foreign tourists to
the temple. Attracted by the beauty of Menoreh, he walked the
route several times, discovering the beauty of the surrounding
land at dawn.

This prompted him to open a travel bureau in Prawirataman,
offering people the opportunity to visit Borobudur via the rural
route.

"I decided to launch the Borobudur trekking package," said
Sigit, who also runs the nonprofit organization Anak Wayang,
which helps neglected children.

Sigit's trekking package has also provided job opportunities
for local residents, who sell the tourists souvenirs.

The regional administration has so far not shown an interest
in opening up this route to Borobudur by providing adequate
infrastructure.