1994 fashion finds rejuvenation in regeneration

By Rita A. Widiadana

JAKARTA (JP): Back-to-basics and regeneration colored the local fashion scene this year.

A number of local designers have pledged to actively promote the use of traditional fabrics in their creations. Of course, several noted designers have been using such materials for years. Such as Ghea Sukarya is famous for her jumputan (tie-dyeing), Prayudi explores ikat (traditionally hand woven) from West and East Nusa Tenggara and Iwan Tirta produces delicate batik pieces. However, the main point is that this tradition should be passed on to the younger generation, many of whom prefer to incorporate ideas from western cultures.

In September, the Indonesian Fashion Designers Association staged a special fashion show promoting Indonesia's traditional textiles. Tie-dyeing is manifested in various forms and names. In Java it is called rincik-tritik or jumputan, in Kalimantan it is sasaringan, in Bali, Palembang, Lombok and Sulawesi it is plangi (rainbow).

At the opening of the fashion show, Minister of Trade Satrio Budiardjo Joedono said that, "Indonesia should tap into its wealth of traditional textiles to produce a mainstream Indonesian style for both clothes and exported fabrics."

Poppy Dharsono, fashion designer and leading garment producer, explained that a focus on tie-dye fashion may revitalize not only the traditional crafts of tie-dyeing but also other highly refined traditional cloth making techniques. She added that it is important to embody "traditional designs into a cosmopolitan style".

Moreover, the tie-dye industry provides jobs for thousands of villagers in Java as well as other islands. Young designer, Pras Sudjie, who has just returned from four years working in Milan, said that all designers in Italy get their tie-dye from Indonesia.

Besides promoting traditional textiles, the association also encourages its members to penetrate the international market.

Heading the motto that there is strength in numbers, the association was established on July 22, l993 to provide Indonesian designers with a way to expand their national and international markets and reputations.

The association's chairwoman Poppy Dharsono said that the association not only fosters creativity among Indonesian designers through joint fashion shows and overseas exhibition but also promotes and develops the local textile industry.

Textiles are currently Indonesia's largest non-oil economic sector. With more relaxed trade regulations looming in the wake of recent APEC negotiations, and with many of the association's designers being self employed, it has the potential to be a commercial venture.

Last November, the association organized a special show to seek both a wider market opportunity and set the new fashion vogue for l995.

The association has dictated next year's trends as being four-fold. These were outlined in typical fashion styles as "free expression" , "sense of innocence", "color of tradition" and "the l930s charm".

It recommends the following trend: self restraint. The best ensembles of Fashion Tendance l995 were the ones which followed no particular trend and exercised minimal design. Instead, these designers focused on the beauty of the textiles, which remains Indonesian fashion's strongest commercial and aesthetic asset.

This year, Indonesian fashion experienced a smooth regeneration process by encouraging young talents to take part in this world. Femina women's magazine and the Indonesian Fashion Designer Council held annual design competitions which were proved to be an effective forum for enhancing the process.

The fashion scene in Indonesia proved itself to be alive and kicking with innovative creativity when the Femina Group staged the 16th Young Fashion Talents Contest last September. The contest, participated in by 258 young talents, was merely aimed at seeking young and talented designers. They are also expected to breath new fresh idea into the local fashion scene.

Ten of the 258 participants were declared finalists. They were given the opportunity to exhibit their creations at the Sahid Jaya. The contest's past winners include Itang Yunaz, Maarthi Djorgi and Samuel Watimenna, all of them now commercially successful. The contest was sponsored by Lippo, Texmaco and L'Oreal, while members of the jury consisted of fashion experts and experienced designers. The winner of the contest was promising young talent Emir Keita, with his short and snappy Cosmopolitan Girl collections. The encouraging thing was that the finalists came from various cities such as Bandung, Malang, Surabaya and even the small city Temanggung in Central Java.

In August, the Indonesian Fashion Designers Council staged the second Indonesian Young Designers Contest. The winner, Syah Reza Muslim, will represent Indonesia at the ASEAN Young Designer Contest l994 in Singapore.

Muslim's designs were praised because he met all the contest's requirements of commercial, wearable, individual, crafted and Indonesian designs. He modified the traditional dress, Kebaya, into a modern and very cosmopolitan apparel.

The fashion world is often regarded as shallow and inconsequential. A successful fashion industry, however, has great economic, social and even political implications. In France, the fashion industry has contributed more to the country's economy than any other industry.

An influential Indonesian fashion industry could do the same.

At present, Indonesian designers have not been able to capture much international attention.

Famous designer, Susan Budihardjo, remarked, "In order to enter the international market, we must refine the `Indonesian touch.'"

She added that in the past, a number of Indonesians have taken part in various design competitions in Paris and Singapore but have never received recognition.

"We realize now that the international market wants an Indonesian element. Even in Singapore, there is always special characteristics of their own culture present in their collections, however little."

Fashion designers from western countries are looking to "the Orient" for inspiration. Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier explores the Indian and Masai cultures as he dresses his models in bright saris. American designer Ralph Lauren features cheongsam, the traditional Chinese dress.

"Why try to imitate the styles of other cultures while we have so many traditional elements of our own to offer?" she wondered.