Young designer makes his mark in Paris<\/p>\n
PARIS (JP): A decade ago when Samudra Hartanto left his
\nhometown of Malang, East Java, to study in Australia, he never
\ndreamed that he would become a design assistant for such a
\nprestigious fashion designer like Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton.<\/p>\n
Now he is a true Parisian who lives in the trendy Marais area
\nof Paris and loves to dine on seafood and snails at the well-
\nknown brasserie Lipp, on the opposite bank of the River Seine.<\/p>\n
In his leisure time Samudra enjoys visiting museums, antique
\nfairs and flea markets.<\/p>\n
\"Now I actually see the things I only read about in books and
\nmagazines. I am catching up and learning about decorative arts,
\npainting and fashion history, especially all that has to do with
\nthe 1920s!\"<\/p>\n
He appreciates the elegant dress of French women, besides
\nobserving the mixture of international cultural influences in
\nParis or simply walking around different areas to compare the
\narchitecture. Recent shows from the vast choice here in Paris
\nfrom which to choose from are the personal art collection of
\nGustav Rau at the Luxembourg museum, or painters
\nsuch as Courbet and Matisse inspired by the Mediterranean, on
\nexhibit at the Grand Palais. Here one also glimpses stylish
\noutfits portrayed by artists in the recent past.<\/p>\n
The young Indonesian designer's first cultural shock came
\nafter finishing high school in Indonesia and arriving in Sydney
\nwith his sister.<\/p>\n
He learned to express himself in English: \"I was not very good
\nat English in high school and had to take an intensive course in
\nBondi. On the train on my way to language school for the first
\ntime, I noticed that Australians were not all blonde with blue
\neyes, there are a lot of Asians in Sydney!\"<\/p>\n
The language barrier was soon overcome and Samudra was able to
\nconcentrate on taking evening courses at the Whitehouse School of Design in
\nSydney. He studied fashion illustration to prepare a portfolio for fashion
\nschool and also pattern cutting.<\/p>\n
Why did Samudra choose fashion? The reply comes without a
\nmoment's hesitation: \"I was always fascinated by clothes. My
\nmother made all her own clothes according to the latest styles in
\nEuropean and Indonesian fashion magazines, and I loved drawing
\nnew models. Luckily my father had traveled abroad a lot and
\nfinally agreed that a career in fashion would be alright!\"<\/p>\n
Before leaving for London to apply for fashion school, Samudra
\nspent some time in Jakarta as an informal assistant to famous Indonesian
\nfashion designer Biyan.<\/p>\n
\"I was very happy because he let me stay and watch
\nhow he prepared a show, I learned a lot about the practical side
\nof the business this way! It is essential to have an idea about
\nhow the clothes are made and not only make sketches.\"<\/p>\n
In London Samudra attended the Royal College of Art for four
\nyears to learn about pattern cutting and fashion illustration. Samudra is
\ngrateful to Prof. John Miles who passed on his profound knowledge
\nabout textiles and different fabrics. He went on to design knitwear and
\ncontinue learning about textiles, and then decided to go directly
\ninto women's wear.<\/p>\n
Samudra trained with Norman Hartnell, couturier to Queen
\nElizabeth, for one year and then went into high street fashion at
\nWhistles. He then joined Amanda Wakely to design couture and
\nready-to-wear. Here he realized that accessories such as shoes
\ncan make or break even the most elegant garment.<\/p>\n
Robert Duffy, another former teacher recommended him to Marc
\nJacobs when the latter was setting up the design studio for Louis
\nVuitton, after being taken over by the multinational LVMH in
\nDecember 1996. Samudra crossed the Channel for his interview in
\nMarch 1997 and was accepted for a trial period of three months.<\/p>\n
He then became one of Marc Jacob's assistants.<\/p>\n
The young Indonesian designer helped to bring out the first
\nVuitton collection in early 1998, shown at the Glasshouse of the
\nAndri Citreon Park in Paris. Although he is responsible for
\naccessories, occasionally Samudra will also design a costume for
\nJacobs at Vuitton, such as the recent petrol blue crocodile suit.<\/p>\n
Modest as ever, Samudra continues to work hard, conscious that
\nteamwork is essential for success. He believes that he still has
\na lot to learn. The amiable designer who hails from Malang is
\nopen to novel experiences, gathering inspiration while traveling
\naround the world for Louis Vuitton. (Kunang Helmi-Picard)<\/p>",
"url": "https:\/\/jawawa.id\/newsitem\/young-designer-makes-his-mark-in-paris-1447893297",
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