Unbridled change threatening Bali<\/p>\n
By Putu Wirata<\/p>\n
DENPASAR (JP): Nyoman Gelebet's name frequently makes front
\npage news in Bali. He is critical of the deterioration the
\nisland's culture. He stands on the frontline of protesters with
\nGedong Bagoes Oka, a prominent religious leader who promotes
\nmodernizing Hinduism, and with a number of Hindu students who
\nobject to the planned Garuda Wisnu Kencana sculpture by Nyoman
\nNuarta. The statue's sheer height, reportedly higher than the
\nfamed Statue of Liberty in New York, will make it more than a
\nlandmark.<\/p>\n
Nyoman is also closely connected to groups opposed to the
\ndevelopment of a hotel by PT Bali Nirwana Resort at Tanah Lot,
\nthe development of a power plant in Bedugul, the statues of
\nheroes on strategic street junctions, the general spatial plan,
\nand the date for the Eka Buana cleansing ritual.<\/p>\n
In his opinion, the centenarian ritual should be held in 1998,
\nnot in 1996. He suspects that the ritual was deliberately moved
\nahead for political and private reasons.<\/p>\n
Born in 1944, Nyoman graduated from the Surabaya Institute of
\nTechnology in 1976. Between 1965 and 1971, he helped build the
\nBali International Airport, and from 1971 to 1974 he worked for
\nBIC\/SCETO, a research project to formulate a tourist master plan
\nfor Bali. He continued his studies at the Surabaya Institute of
\nTechnology from 1974 to 1976, then worked for Pacific Consultant
\nIntercontinental until 1980. He was with the Bali Tourist
\nDevelopment Organization from 1980 to 1982 and joined the
\nUniversal Hindu inventory and documentation team from 1982 to
\n1990. He is now a lecturer at the School of Engineering at
\nUdayana University.<\/p>\n
He has written a book entitled Traditional Architecture from
\nBali, published for a select readership. He is sought for his
\ncritiques. His observations of the changes in Bali often confuse
\neven himself.<\/p>\n
The following is an interview he gave The Jakarta Post:<\/p>\n
Question: You have stated the Eka Buana ritual should have
\nbeen held in 1988, not 1996. You have also suggested that
\ndeference of the ceremony might have been political.<\/p>\n
Gelebet: I actually spoke off-the-record and reporters were
\naware of it because I mentioned it to them. Imagine my surprise
\nwhen it was splashed across the media. I felt as if I had been
\nindicted. And that while I am actually a member of the Hindu
\nLeaders Council. Anyway, because it concerns Yadnya (holy
\nsacrifice ritual) I won't go further into the subject.<\/p>\n
How would Bali and the world benefit from the Eka Buana
\nritual. You said that the ceremony would not only cleanse Bali,
\nbut all the world.<\/p>\n
The Hindu community holds an annual religious cleansing ritual
\nwhich falls on the ninth month of the Saka calender. Aside from
\nthe annual rites, there are the five year rituals, ten year
\nrituals, hundred year rituals -- like the Eka Dasa Rudra -- and
\nSeribu Tahunan (1,000 years). The rituals denote a repayment to
\nnature after periods of constant taking.<\/p>\n
Yes, but isn't it a symbolic cleansing ritual? Bali and the
\nworld are facing concrete problems, environmental abuse, cultural
\nerosion, rising crime rate, narcotics. Why haven't intellectual
\nHindus from Bali made use of this momentum in order to evaluate
\nthose problems?<\/p>\n
Possibly because they haven't made a scientific analysis yet.
\nTo be able to do that, we need data, we cannot just make noises
\nwithout coming up with strong facts.<\/p>\n
The Hindu community also appears to only emphasize the ritual
\naspect.<\/p>\n
True. Our social religious system gives more value to the
\nritual aspect of our religion. The philosophical side does not
\nseem very important.<\/p>\n
It seems Bali lacks a figure who can speak on behalf of the
\nHindu community.<\/p>\n
That is true of Bali. But once patience has run out, people
\nstart to move on their own accord. They don't need to be ordered.
\nIt'll be like the Bali Nirwana Resort (BNR) hotel case on Tanah
\nLot. The project received strong opposition from the Hindu
\ncommunity although nobody was in charge.<\/p>\n
Yes, but in the end the BNR hotel was built and it looks as if
\nthe Hindu community lost their fight.<\/p>\n
Nobody won or lost. If we claimed victory, who was our
\nopponent? Under Pancasila, we are not opposed to our country.
\nThere is a difference between the country and administration. We
\nlook for protection from our government.<\/p>\n
The government has always been able to smother protests.
\nInstructions are not effective enough, even to the effect that
\nthe governor of Bali had to alter these rulings.<\/p>\n
If man falls short in correcting himself, nature eventually
\ntakes over. Like what recently happened, floods inundated
\nhundreds of houses in Suwung village. It's all because of the dam
\nconstruction on the river estuary. They claimed that an analysis
\nof the surrounding environs had been made and they reassured us
\nthat there would be no floods, that it would be safe and that our
\nfears were groundless. Now it looks as if they have faked the
\nanalysis.<\/p>\n
Does that indicate moral shortcomings on the side of the
\nauthorities?<\/p>\n
Don't go too far. Without putting the dots on the i's, people
\nunderstand. The authorities would like to simplify the problem.
\nWhen people asked questions about the geothermal exploration in
\nBedugul, an official replied: \"Of course everything has been
\nstudied.\" He forgot that only a few days earlier, he had said
\nthat the environmental impact analysis did not exist and that the
\nnational science institute had yet to start research on the
\nenvironment. Now, if research hasn't been done, don't tell people
\nit has.<\/p>\n
You have followed Bali's development since the 1960s. Are you
\nworried about the social changes taking place now?<\/p>\n
I'm not the only one who is worried, the whole world is.
\nDuring demonstrations opposing the construction of the BNR hotel,
\npeople the world over, those who knew and love Bali, showed
\nconcern. We received letters, people came to see me. They were
\napprehensive. Communication with the outside world is one way to
\nmake Bali's aspirations known.<\/p>\n
Is it really effective?<\/p>\n
It seems that this approach works very well. We have done all
\nwe can, so much so that one of us got a beating at Pura Jeroan
\nPura. No one was ever beaten at a pura before. This means that
\nthe incumbent came to the end of his meter. We admit that our
\ncapabilities don't extend beyond that. If the government doesn't
\nwant to listen to the voice of the people, nature intercepts and
\ntakes over. What the government should ask themselves is: Is it
\nnecessary for nature to repeatedly warn us?<\/p>\n
When you raised the issue of \"pura ground\" at the Bali House
\nof Representatives, the chairman challenged you to come up with
\nproof of ownership, which allegedly underwent a change of
\nownership and then transferred again to the private sector. Were
\nyou able to collect all the data?<\/p>\n
How can I collect data? The House has people to do research.
\nIf they say that they didn't know it was pura ground, why did
\nthey agree that the land was to be appropriated for further sale
\nto a private party. Have they forgotten that they are
\nrepresenting the people, and not a board of investors. They were
\nchosen by the people.<\/p>\n
What will happen if pura land is owned by a private party?<\/p>\n
A pura does not have money to fund rituals, they depend on the
\npublic's generosity. Should people really be burdened like that?
\nGains from pura land take care of all ritual costs. Looking at it
\nfrom a psychological point of view, a community subsisting on
\nsuch land will be morally tied to the pura. If the roof needs
\nfixing, such persons will wholeheartedly volunteer their
\nservices. And it is the custom that pura land is not for sale. It
\nis these things that keep Bali culture alive.<\/p>\n
But, why have more pura lands been appropriated for marketing
\npurposes?<\/p>\n
May be there were personal reasons for that. I don't like to
\ncomment on it. I am only amazed that officials reportedly said
\nthat traditionally villages do not have the right to own land.
\nSuch customs are not backed by the law. Now, this has to be
\nstraightened out. Land laws are based on traditional rules. Then
\nhow can officials say that land laws can overrule traditional
\nlaw? Why not turn it the other way round? I know of a ministerial
\nrule permitting land ownership based on traditional village
\ncustoms. What's more, the essence of this tradition can be found
\nin the Tri Hita Karana concept, which is unified in the elements
\nof Parahyangan (temple), Pawongan (members of traditional
\nvillage) and Palemahan (private and community grounds). Each
\nvillage is unquestionably tied up with the land, the inhabitants
\nand the temple, it is all integrated into a whole. They are not
\nto be separated, later the custom chief of the village shall own
\nthe land. In such cases, we should dare to face confrontation.<\/p>\n
How much pura land has been cut up in plots and changed into
\nprivately owned land?<\/p>\n
Tanah Lot is dense with permanent kiosks, all of them built on
\npura land. Then, all along the road to Pura Besakih, permanent
\nkiosks and shops were built on land never to be owned by
\nindividuals. If they had no permit, why did they dare build
\npermanent buildings. The puras should retain the authority to
\nevict people from land, so puras won't be encroached upon by
\nmarkets. People had no qualms to build, there must be a ruling
\nfrom the government. So what to do?<\/p>\n
What do you think about the rapid population growth around
\nKuta, Sanur and Denpasar?<\/p>\n
A few days ago, around Idul Fitri, I walked around Kuta. The
\natmosphere in town was relaxed and peaceful, there were no
\nsellers, no people crisscrossing over the roads, it was just
\nbeautiful. It's hard to describe, one can only feel it. No
\npickpockets, no criminals, no wicked people, all was clean.
\nToday, it is as busy as ever.<\/p>\n
Do you worry about the fate of Bali? That it may end the same
\nway as the Betawi (in Jakarta), who have practically been
\nobliterated by urbanization?<\/p>\n
It's all up to us, do we have the guts to halt the arrival of
\nimmigrants? We have to take care that we won't be blamed for
\ninstigating hatred of tribal affiliations, and religious, or
\nracial feelings. People might be afraid to raise their voice.
\nAfter all, this is all for the good of the environment. It is
\nsaid that we maintain a tourism culture. If urbanization goes
\nunchecked, all the land in Bali will be gone in 50 years. There
\nwill be over population. The culture of Bali is rooted in the
\nland, if the land is gone, its culture will vanish and tourists
\nwill stop coming. If this continues, it won't be only Bali people
\nwho loose out. The hotel business in Nusa Dua, Kuta and Sanur
\nwill also feel the pinch.<\/p>\n
But population growth from urbanization is also a result of
\ntourism development.<\/p>\n
True, but don't press the Balinese into selling their land to
\nbig time investors. There should be controls and direction. Or, a
\nsystem should be made to protect indigenous people. There was a
\ntime when the government used to scream \"save Bali culture, don't
\nsell land, utilize the contract system.\" That's what they said,
\nthen they issued a rule about the sale of land. Different words,
\ndifferent actions.<\/p>\n
According to the government, investors are not happy with the
\ncontract system.<\/p>\n
But is it really true? That's what they say, proof is needed.<\/p>\n
It seems people's traditions and customs have fallen short of
\nexpectations. The government makes the decisions, and start
\nconsultations with elders when problems arise. Elders' voices
\nwill only be listened to when existing decisions have to be
\nenforced.<\/p>\n
Yes, people follow without resistance, the influence of the
\nauthorities is rooted. I, therefore, ask for a revival of village
\ncustoms to replace the village chief administration system. Such
\na system will be meekly followed, especially if the village chief
\nhappens to be a member of the Army. When will they hold
\ndiscussions and meet with the people? But, if I talk in this way,
\ndon't go around saying that I'm one of the primordial voices.<\/p>\n
That won't guarantee the morals of the Balinese will improve.
\nThe government proved its attention when it arranged a
\ncompetition for village customs. Would people's aspirations be
\nsmothered if the government appointed a village chief?<\/p>\n
We don't need to discuss the village custom competition,
\nthat's too farfetched. The leading role has been taken over by
\nthe village chief.<\/p>\n
What about the fate of the Nusa Dua people after the arrival
\nof Bali Tourism Development Coordinator (BTDC).<\/p>\n
BTDC's earlier concept was not like that. I was born in Bualu
\nand I followed the planning process of Nusa Dua. The concept had
\nlocal village representatives in the BTDC body at first. They
\nwere supposed to channel the village's aspirations. The reality
\nwas different though, the local people were left out altogether.
\nThat's why the body was at liberty to erect a concrete wall
\n(which isolated roadside kiosks serving the local populace), and
\nevict people. Now the villages have become acceptors of hotel
\nwaste. Earnings of the Nusa Dua region are being used to fund
\ntourist development in Manado and Biak. In the original concept,
\nincome from this region was slated to fund the island's tourism
\ninfrastructure. I wonder why earnings of the BTDC are being
\ntransferred to places outside Bali?<\/p>\n
The SCETO's master plan has been violated. What about other
\nmaster plans, like BPRIP's for instance. Has that undergone major
\nchanges too?<\/p>\n
I don't like to say anything about it, I don't like to judge
\npeople. That wouldn't be ethical. I hope that the government, and
\nits representatives, will understand more about the region's
\nexistence. You might want to go deeper into that.<\/p>\n
You complain about space distribution in Bali, of tourist
\nareas, for instance. What is the basis of your criticism?<\/p>\n
The basics can be found in understanding for the region. They
\nthink, that area is meant as a hotel or restaurant site only.
\nIt's true that the Nusa Dua area, Kuta and Sanur, have become
\nconcentrated hotel sites. However, there are also stopover areas
\nlike Tanah Lot. But, their preconceived ideas of the Tanah Lot
\narea as a hotel site, really did transform the place into such an
\narea. Construction of a star-rated hotel will be only advantage
\nthose in the hotel business. Whereas, if the government promoted
\nthe development of home stays, cottages, motels, and the like,
\nlocal villages could benefit. They could lease their houses,
\nopened drink stalls and sell young coconut juice and generally
\nbecome their own boss. With star-rated hotels in the region, they
\nmight become gardeners or caddies at best, they will be depending
\non people.<\/p>\n
Has Bali's land and culture been over exploited compared with
\ntourist areas in other countries?<\/p>\n
I have observed many tourist destinations. I have been to
\nKorea, Japan, the United States, Thailand, also Hawaii. In
\nHawaii, the indigenous people have become only part of the
\nisland's decor. In Australia the Aborigines have been removed
\nfrom their land. Do we want to go the same way as they have. They
\nprovide good samples and many experts are saying that Hawaii is a
\nshining example of negative social cultural development. Here we
\nfind many people of the opinion that we should save Bali's
\nculture, lest it may go the same way as Hawaii. Well, in that
\ncase, it would mean that we would want to keep mistakes to a bare
\nminimum. But, will it be really done the right way?<\/p>\n
You sound as if Bali is a hopeless affair ready to sink into
\nthe ocean. Many people like to compare the Balinese with the
\nBetawi<\/p>\n
If no control over urbanization is exercised, Bali could meet
\nthe same fate as the Betawi.<\/p>\n
If our observations are right, the whole thing resembles a
\nmachine running without brakes. Can people stop it?<\/p>\n
It's possible, if they only wanted to.<\/p>\n
You seem to be the only one taking a stand.<\/p>\n
Indeed, honest talk has its risks. We are now enjoying
\neconomic advancement, improved education, but, we don't have the
\nguts to express what needs to be said. We hopelessly fail in this
\nmatter.<\/p>\n
It is said that we are a nation of fighters.<\/p>\n
(Gelebet smiled.)<\/p>\n
I don't want to belittle my own race, but, history has proven
\nthat we can be easily divided. The Dutch set foot on our soil,
\nbestowing presents on the village chiefs as they went and we were
\ncolonized for three and a half centuries. Vietnam was
\nexceptional, it waged an undercover war against the States, and
\nthey won. After the Americans left the country, they started to
\nrebuild their economy with rapid results. What do you think of
\nthat?<\/p>\n
Compared with us, Vietnam is more advanced. Its annual per
\ncapita income is three times that of Indonesia. And that in such
\na relative short time after the war. Their lust for work is
\nextraordinary. Bali is said to be number two on the national
\nladder of per capita incomes. But then, don't forget that many of
\nBali's hotels are owned by outsiders. They make substantial
\ncontributions to the region's income, which shows up in the
\nstatistics. But, that's all on paper. One tycoon might easily
\nadopt hundred or a thousand destitute people. Would he really
\nshare his riches with them? I think not.<\/p>\n
If you were asked to present a proposal to preserve Bali's
\nculture, what would you come up with?<\/p>\n
I would stress once more to revive the village customs and
\nsuggest to end the system of village chiefs. Just have a close
\nlook, what programs were not successful through the medium of
\ntraditional institutes. There was the village family planning
\nsystem, the rice field irrigation program, intensification
\nthrough the masses, special intensification program. I don't want
\nto oppose the government, but these were positive plans. Why did
\nthey resort to the village chief governing system again? I also
\ndisapprove of too many supermarkets, it kills traditional markets
\nand the small traders, it is conducive to the makings of poverty.
\nIt's true that supermarket taxes could avert poverty, but, if
\nthese small traders were left to exist, government would not need
\nto fight poverty.<\/p>",
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