Tracing pizza's culinary journey<\/p>\n
By Maria Endah Hulupi<\/p>\n
JAKARTA (JP): Its classic shape is round, its golden brown
\nskin is topped with tasty and colorful morsels. It first appeared
\nin the gastronomic records in medieval times and has marched
\nproudly into the modern era.<\/p>\n
It has style, either very personal or highly commercialized.<\/p>\n
During its centuries-long existence, pizza has gone from a
\nmodest food of the humble citizens of its home country Italy, to
\na popular food among all classes in countries around the world.<\/p>\n
However, this dish still embodies its long culinary tradition,
\nas Italians continue to honor its origins with their own
\ngenerations-old family recipes.<\/p>\n
According to Antonia Soriente, a linguist and cultural
\ncollaborator at the Italian Cultural Center in Jakarta, the
\nhistory of pizza can be traced back to 500 B.C. There is
\narchaeological evidence that ovens in which pizzas might have
\nbeen cooked were burning in the Greek colony Neapolis, now
\nNaples, Italy.<\/p>\n
In the Middle Ages, its ancestor, the flat pie, was often
\ntopped with cheese. "The tomato pulp became a standard condiment
\nonly after the plump fruit reached Naples from Peru by way of
\nMexico in the late 16th century," Antonia said.<\/p>\n
Its name, derived from the Latin word picea, meaning
\n"pinching", is found in the work of Italian Giambattista Basile,
\na 17th century writer.<\/p>\n
In the early 19th century, there were reports that the king of
\nthe Two Sicilies, Ferdinand II, ordered meals from the first
\ncommercial pizzeria to be sent to his palace. During this era the
\nBourbon kings bestowed the title "Monsu" on the son of pizza chef
\nAntonio Testa, raising him to knighthood in the process.<\/p>\n
In 1889, Raffaele Esposito, a renowned Neapolitan pizza chef,
\nexpressed his devotion to the visiting Queen Margherita of the
\nSavoys dynasty by preparing a patriotic version of pizza bearing
\nthe colors of the unified Italy -- green from basil leaves, white
\nfrom mozzarella cheese and red from tomato pulp. From then on,
\nany pizza with these particular toppings was known as pizza
\nMargherita.<\/p>\n
Antonia explained that in traditional pizzerias, pizza crusts
\nare made by mixing flour, leavening, water and salt by hand, and
\nallowing the mixture to sit overnight. Then the cook rolls the
\ndough into a thin layer and puts it in a brick oven heated with
\npoplar wood. After three minutes, the crust turns a golden brown
\nand the tomato pulp is spread on top and the pizza served hot.<\/p>\n
"For this (traditional) version, it is best to use fresh
\nmozzarella cheese derived from buffalo milk, for it has a unique
\nflavor; fresh basil is added after the hot pizza is removed from
\nthe oven, canned whole tomatoes to maintain its flavor and extra
\nvirgin olive oil to add the mild olive scent," said Antonia.<\/p>\n
She added that the crust was similar to staple foods in
\nMediterranean countries and other regions, only they have
\ndifferent shapes and names, like nan and pita bread.<\/p>\n
Pizza was introduced to much of the world with the massive
\nemigration of southern Italians to the United States, Canada,
\nArgentina, Brazil and other countries in the western hemisphere.<\/p>\n
Local ingredients from the respective countries were added to
\nenrich the classic version and to provide more variety. "And the
\nlist of additional ingredients to please local taste buds is
\npractically endless," Antonia said.<\/p>\n
She said various kinds of wursts were used in Germany, in
\nJapan the crust was made with rice flour and spread with catsup,
\nwhile in Indonesia tofu, tempeh and chili were commonly found on
\npizzas.<\/p>\n
"However, it is best not to add too many ingredients for the
\ntoppings because such combinations will overpower the unique
\nflavor of each ingredient and there will be no distinctive flavor
\nin it," she advised.<\/p>\n
Antonia added that pizza was traditionally a "light" meal
\nserved for dinner, but its commercial versions, which could be
\ngreasy or fatty depending on the additional ingredients, were
\neaten at practically any hour of the day.<\/p>\n
For a traditional pizza, see Cook's Corner below for Antonia's
\nrecipe for pizza Margherita.<\/p>",
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