The Nagas: A tribe lost in history<\/p>\n
By YR Prahista<\/p>\n
BANDUNG, West Java: Visitors to Kampung Naga, a small hamlet
\nlocated in Tasikmalaya regency, often wonder about the origins of
\nthe residents, the Naga tribe. So far, there has been hardly
\nanybody who can tell exactly where they came from and why they
\nare called Suku Naga, the Dragon Tribe. Even the local office of
\nthe Ministry of Education and Culture cannot give any answers.<\/p>\n
As part of the Sunda community, the Naga tribe speaks
\nSundanese in daily life. The difference between the Naga tribe
\nand many other Sundanese community groups lies in their attitude
\ntoward the outside culture. The Naga tribe are able to uphold
\nculture and tradition handed down by ancestors although they only
\nform a small community. Unlike the isolated Badui tribe, the Naga
\ncommunity is more open to visitors.<\/p>\n
The tribe occupies an area of approximately 10 hectares at
\nNeglasari village, Salawu district, Tasikmalaya regency. It is
\nsome 27 kms from the town of Garut and about 30 kms from the town
\nof Tasikmalaya. The distance from Bandung to Garut is 105 kms.<\/p>\n
The location of the settlement is separated from other
\ncommunities. Nevertheless, Kampung Naga is not an isolated
\nregion. Anyone can easily visit the place. The distance from the
\nTasikmalaya-Garut road is only 500 meters.<\/p>\n
Kampung Naga is in a valley surrounded by hills. The only
\naccess to the village is on foot by way of 335 steps which go up
\nand down, constructed at the foot of a steep slope with an angle
\nof 20 to 45 degrees.<\/p>\n
Their origins have never been clarified. History and past
\nalmost became extinct when nearly all the houses were burned down
\nby the Indonesian Islamic Army (DI\/TII) rebels in 1956.<\/p>\n
\"There was nothing left,\" Sumanta, a member of the Naga tribe,
\nrecalled. His three-year-old son was killed in the incident. At
\nthat time, Sumanta joined the Village Security Organization which
\nconsisted of civilians.<\/p>\n
Apart from property, various heirlooms and historical objects
\nstored in the Bumi Ageung community hall were burned to ash.
\nSumanta said the building was a house on stilts without windows,
\nand which was guarded and maintained by a woman already in her
\nmenopause.<\/p>\n
The Naga tribe believes that their ancestors were buried in
\nnearby Bukit Naga (Naga hill). The area is also called leuweung
\nlarangan meaning a forest full of prohibitions because not
\neverybody can enter the area, especially outsiders.<\/p>\n
There are at least six pilgrimages a year to visit the graves
\nof ancestors in a ceremony named hajat sasih. The ceremony is
\nattended by all the inhabitants of Kampung Naga and the Naga
\ncommunity members living outside the hamlet.<\/p>\n
Hajat sasih is an expression of gratitude and at the same time
\na request for safety and prosperity for all the inhabitants.<\/p>\n
The ceremony can only be attended by adult males. First, they
\nbath together in the Ciwulan river which is at the eastern border
\nof Kampung Naga. They return home and change into white clothes.
\nThey put on a headband called totopong. The main part of the
\nprogram starts with the cleaning of the ancestors' graves.<\/p>\n
The ceremony takes place in the first, third, sixth, eighth,
\ntenth and twelfth months of the Islamic year, which starts in
\nApril.<\/p>\n
\"The date of the hajat sasih can be advanced or delayed if it
\ncoincides with a Tuesday, Wednesday or Saturday,\" said Ateng
\nDjaelani, 42, a custom official who has been assigned to uphold
\ntradition and to lead ritual ceremonies.<\/p>\n
For three days the Naga tribe retire in seclusion in nyepi
\nrituals. Unlike the Hindu community of Bali, the Naga tribe still
\nperform daily duties during nyepi. Moreover, tourists are not
\nprohibited from visiting the area.<\/p>\n
\"But during nyepi it is taboo for the inhabitants to tell
\nanybody about customs and ancestry,\" said Ateng.<\/p>\n
At present, the population of Naga village numbers 320 with
\n102 family heads. From the 10-hectare territory only an area of
\n1.5 hectares is for settlement. The rest is the \"forbidden
\nforest\", rice fields and agricultural land. The Naga community
\nlives off of farming and bamboo plaited handicraft revenue.<\/p>\n
They live in traditional houses with shapes and colors
\nconformed to local construction material. Not one single house
\nuses material like tiles or bricks.<\/p>\n
The black roof is made of ijuk (palm fiber). Bamboo plaited
\nwalls are part of the rumah panggung. The floors are made of
\nplanks or bamboo.<\/p>\n
The houses are situated lengthwise from east to west with
\ndoors facing north to south in accordance with their cosmological
\nconcept. It is not allowed to paint walls or other parts of the
\nhouse, instead chalk is used for making the houses uniformly
\nwhite.<\/p>\n
The Naga community refuses to use electric power.<\/p>\n
The reason is a fear that the house may catch fire. On the
\nother hand, they do not reject electronic products like TV and
\nradio sets. Some ethnic Naga young men often even use colorful T-
\nshirts and wear disheveled jeans with holes in the knee region.
\nThey dye their hair or let it grow long.<\/p>\n
Although they are Muslims, they still practice traditions
\nhanded down by ancestors. Apart from hajat sasih they organize
\nother custom ceremonies for weddings, harvests and circumcisions.<\/p>\n
On Aug. 17, coinciding with Independence Day, they hold a
\nmarak (no food) ceremony. Formerly, the ceremony was preceded by
\nthe catching of fish in the Ciwulan river whereby one of the
\nriversides was dammed.<\/p>\n
The catch is carried in a procession accompanied by angklung
\n(suspended bamboo tubes) music and handed over to the village
\nadministration and subdistrict office as proof of the adherence
\nof the ethnic Naga community. Along the way the group happily
\ndances to the rhythm of the angklung instruments.<\/p>\n
It is regrettable that over these past few years the marak
\nceremony has been replaced by agricultural produce like bananas,
\nvarious kinds of snacks and fish caught in ponds.<\/p>",
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