The Jakarta Post
\nJakarta<\/p>\n
From a tool to fashion, what next?
\nFrom machine to quartz, what next?<\/p>\n
The history of the wristwatch is indeed short. Wristwatches
\ndid not begin to see widespread use until the 1920s. Men tended
\nto regard the wristwatch as effeminate.<\/p>\n
Watches adapted to the wrist made sporadic appearances as
\nearly as the late 1500s. Queen Elizabeth I is said to have been
\ngiven one. In the early 1800s the wristwatch made more frequent
\nappearances when jewelry and watchmakers began creating gem
\nencrusted timepieces for royalty, according to
\nwristwatchguide.com.<\/p>\n
Toward the end of the 1800s, women began to embrace the
\nwristwatch as an item of adornment. Despite the feminine
\nassociation, the concept became accepted as indispensable to
\nmilitary campaigns as mechanization in war grew. The ability to
\nread time with a quick glance rather than having to dig through
\npockets was critical in battle.<\/p>\n
As demand for wristwatches in warfare grew, rugged timepieces
\ncovered with metal grids were introduced. The first chronograph
\nwristwatches were developed, and luminous hands and markers were
\ndeveloped.<\/p>\n
Following the war, automatic (self winding) wristwatches were
\ncreated, drawing on technology used in pocket watches. Initially
\nthey were unreliable, but were perfected by the late 1930s and
\nearly 1940s. In the 1920s, the wristwatch became the dominant
\nmeans of timekeeping among both men and women. Then, as now, men
\nseemed to prefer more rugged, sportier models, including
\nchronographs.<\/p>\n
Rolex created the first water resistant watch which was worn
\nunscathed by a woman channel swimmer in 1927.<\/p>\n
During the Great Depression, demand for wristwatches withered
\nand many top watchmaking companies went out of business. Despite
\nreversals, many design innovations were introduced. With the
\nadvent of World War II, watches in most countries were an
\nunattainable luxury and production ceased for all but military
\nneeds.<\/p>\n
Neutral Switzerland continued making wristwatches to fulfill
\nmilitary orders. Watches were developed for fighter pilots and
\nfor underwater specialties requiring far greater water
\nresistance.<\/p>\n
Following World War II, civilian production resumed and many
\ninnovations were seen, leading to the 1957 introduction of the
\nfirst electric battery powered wristwatch made by Hamilton Watch
\nCompany in America.<\/p>\n
Competition among manufacturers in the 1950s and 60s revolved
\naround reductions in size. In 1969 the first automatic
\nchronograph wristwatch was developed, and Neil Armstrong wore an
\nOmega Speedmaster as he made his giant leap for mankind.<\/p>\n
Precision has always been the greatest challenge in making
\ntimepieces. And Quartz crystals were long known to offer highly
\nreliable frequency standards. And then the Quartz Revolution
\nbegan.<\/p>\n
This led to the first Quartz clock in the late 1920s which was
\nconsidered the most accurate time keeping device yet developed.<\/p>\n
Still, the technology to allow use of Quartz crystals in
\nwristwatches had to await invention of the integrated circuit in
\n1970. This enabled a Swiss group to manufacture the first
\ncommercially available Quartz watch, the Beta 21. The Swiss,
\nhowever, lacked the industrial means for large scale production
\nand were reluctant to pursue a technology that could crush Swiss
\ndominance in less precise mechanical watches.<\/p>\n
In short order, commercially viable production of Quartz
\nwatches fell to the Japanese who came to market with the first
\nanalog Quartz watch. By 1971 Seiko was offering Quartz crystal
\nwristwatches accurate to within five seconds a month or a minute
\na year. America's Hamilton Watch Company immediately followed
\nwith the Pulsar and its digital (LED) readout.<\/p>\n
Early Quartz watches had certain drawbacks -- short battery
\nlives, and LED watches required pushing a button to display the
\ntime. Soon, this was replaced by the LCD (liquid crystal display)
\nproviding a continuous readout and battery life was improved. The
\nQuartz revolution was well under way by the late 1970s, led by
\nthe Japanese and Americans. Only about 13 percent of wristwatches
\nmade today are mechanical.<\/p>\n
Although the Swiss helped pioneer Quartz technology, they were
\nslow to join the bandwagon, believing erroneously that Quartz was
\nno more than a fad. As a result, Swiss watchmaking fell into
\ndecline.<\/p>\n
Not until 1983 did the Swiss industry begin to regain its
\nvigor with introduction of the Quartz Swatch watch by the
\npredecessor of what today is the Swatch Group. With the Swatch,
\nconsumers quickly embraced a new concept - the wristwatch as a
\nfashion statement as well as a tool.<\/p>\n
Today, wristwatch design has advanced to an abundance of
\nchoices from dirt cheap to bejeweled masterpieces. Once again,
\nSwiss watchmakers hold sway in the middle and higher price
\nbrackets while Japanese and Hong Kong makers hold the moderate
\nand low end. Most American manufacturers have been acquired by
\nforeign interests.<\/p>\n
One unmistakable trend is that buy-outs, mergers and
\nacquisitions going to the highest bidder have resulted in a
\ngrowing number of prestige brands being moved under the roofs of
\nlarge conglomerates.<\/p>\n
TAG Heuer, Ebel, Zenith, Chaumet, Dior and Fred, for instance,
\nhave been acquired by the French LVMH Group. Many familiar brands
\nand much technology in the Swiss arena has been moved under the
\numbrella of the Swatch Group empire. The tradition of small
\nindependent watchmakers working in pastoral settings is drawing
\nto a close. Globalization will continue reaching deeply into the
\nwatch making craft.<\/p>\n
It is a plain truth at the start of the 21st century that the
\nwristwatch is more indispensable than ever as a tool for
\nbusiness, sports, fashion and daily living.<\/p>\n
What's next? Will wristwatches connect to our computers? Will
\nthey act as phones and beepers or store and retrieve data?
\nHmmm... Dick Tracy, we need you!<\/p>",
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