Tanah Abang market keeps its bad image<\/p>\n
By Ida Indawati Khouw<\/p>\n
Tanah Abang market in Central Jakarta, which will celebrate
\nits 265th anniversary on Aug. 30, has crime records dating back
\nto the early years of its existence. This is the 50th article on
\nold and protected buildings in Jakarta that appears every
\nSaturday at The Jakarta Post.<\/p>\n
JAKARTA (JP): What comes to a Jakartan's mind when Tanah Abang
\nmarket is mentioned? Most probably: an overcrowded marketplace
\ninfested with gangsters and streets congested by vendors fighting
\na winning battle against horrendous traffic for space to operate.<\/p>\n
All manner of crime and social ills exist there, from thugery,
\ntheft and corruption to prostitution. Over the past few years,
\nconflicts involving thugs, traders, local residents and city
\nofficials has on too many occasions ended in rioting.<\/p>\n
In fact, the market has born that kind of negative image since
\nit was built back in 1735. Crime has been the order of the day.<\/p>\n
Apart from the image, the market has played an important role
\nin the city's economy. Just to mention one example, the market is
\nknown as the biggest textile center in the country.<\/p>\n
The crime saga is well-known in the folklore of the Betawi
\nethnic group, regarded as the indigenous of Jakarta.<\/p>\n
Observer of Betawi culture, S.M. Ardan, says that the story of
\nSi Pitung, the famous \"Robin Hood\" of Betawi, in the traditional
\nlenong theater starts with a goatherd being victimized by a
\npickpocket at Tanah Abang after selling goats in the market.<\/p>\n
\"The legend shows that the market was dangerous even in the
\nvery beginning of its existence,\" he says.<\/p>\n
The history of Tanah Abang, which literally means \"maroon
\nearth\", remains unclear.<\/p>\n
One version has it that the name was given by troops of the
\nMataram Javanese kingdom who invaded Batavia (former name of
\nJakarta) in 1628, when Batavia was under the control of Dutch
\ntrading company VOC.<\/p>\n
\"Most of the area consisted of maroon earth. Abang is Javanese
\nword for maroon (old red),\" said the book titled Pasar Tanah
\nAbang 250 Tahun (Tanah Abang Market Turns 250).<\/p>\n
The Mataram troops used the hilly area of Tanah Abang, which
\nwas surrounded by swamps, as their base camp.<\/p>\n
But another observer of Betawi culture, Ridwan Saidi, has a
\ndifferent version. He theorizes that Tanah Abang derives from the
\nword Nabang a certain kind of tree common to the area.<\/p>\n
Ridwan refers to the title of a drawing by Dutch soldier and
\nartist Johannes Rach, De Nabang, depicting a panoramic view of
\nTanah Abang.<\/p>\n
\"That's why Betawians identified it as Tenabang until now....
\nThe name was changed to Tanah Abang after the construction of the
\nrailway station there in 1890,\" he said in his book Profil Orang
\nBetawi, Asal Muasal, Kebudayaan dan Adat Istiadatnya (Profile of
\nBetawi People, Their Origin, Culture and Custom).<\/p>\n
According to him the management of the railway company thought
\nthat the word Tenabang was derived from Tanah Abang.<\/p>\n
Tanah Abang was a fertile land where people, mostly of Chinese
\ndescent, grew many kinds of plants like ginger, jasmine and sirih
\n(betel vine).<\/p>\n
That is why until now there are areas near Tanah Abang named
\nafter specific plants, like Kebon Jahe (Ginger Garden), Kebon
\nMelati (Jasmine Garden) and Kebon Sirih (Betel Vine Garden).<\/p>\n
To transport agricultural products, a wealthy Chinese named
\nPhoa Bingam dug many canals surrounding the area in 1648. The
\ncrops were transported by boats through the canals.<\/p>\n
It was also Phoa who constructed the big canal, now known as
\nthe Ciliwung river, which today divides West Jakarta and Central
\nJakarta and is the point at which Jl. Hayam Wuruk becomes Jl.
\nGajah Mada.<\/p>\n
As a result of these canals, Tanah Abang became a busy
\nterminus for commerce in many kinds of produce and merchandise.<\/p>\n
In 1733 Dutch landlord, Justinus Vinck, purchased the huge
\nland holding of Weltevreden (located in present day Central
\nJakarta area) which also included Tanah Abang.<\/p>\n
\"Justinus Vinck witnessed the economic progress in Tanah Abang
\nand the abundance of crops and had the idea of constructing a
\nmarket there,\" said the book on 250 years of Tanah Abang market.<\/p>\n
On August 30, 1735, the Dutch colonial government granted
\nVinck the license to open two markets on his property, namely
\nTanah Abang and Senen.<\/p>\n
The license also stipulated that Tanah Abang market could open
\nonly on Saturdays, trading in textiles, household goods and
\nvegetables, while Senen market was allowed to open only on
\nMondays.<\/p>\n
Later, Tanah Abang became so busy that the government also
\ngave permission to open the market every Wednesday.<\/p>\n
To connect his two markets Vinck constructed roads, including
\none passing Prapatan Kwitang area in Central Jakarta.<\/p>\n
It was the first access road connecting the eastern and
\nwestern part of Jakarta, says the book titled Batavia Kisah
\nJakarta Tempo Doeloe (Batavia the Story of Jakarta in the Past).<\/p>\n
In the course of time, the market became known not just as the
\ncentral market for textiles, but also for goat trading. \"It was
\nthanks to the Arabian community living nearby, who love to eat
\ngoat and have close relationships with the textile business,\"
\nsaid Ardan.<\/p>\n
In those days, Tanah Abang market was already riddled with
\ncrime. It was targeted in the notorious 1740 anti-Chinese riot
\nthat started in the walled city of Kota (located in West Jakarta
\nat present).<\/p>\n
Books say that the market was torched and Chinese traders fled
\nto the outskirts, abandoning their plantations. The traders
\nreturned only after being persuaded by the Dutch government.<\/p>\n
The market has undergone numerous renovations in its history
\ndue to its rapid growth. The first refurbishment was in 1926.<\/p>\n
But, so far, these beautification projects have not resulted
\nin better conditions in the market.<\/p>",
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