Tailor says his craft will never go out of style<\/p>\n
By I. Christianto<\/p>\n
JAKARTA (JP): Just eight or even three hours for a new
\ntailored suit? No joke, according to some tailors in the capital.<\/p>\n
Despite all the gloomy predictions, the garment and ready-to-
\nwear apparel sectors are unlikely to sound the death knell for
\nthe tailoring business. Tailors say the creative process of
\nsewing and designing involves taste and artistic values, and will
\nnever go out of style.<\/p>\n
Anil K. Adnani, director of Srivishnu Tailor in Jakarta,
\nbelieves there will always be customers for tailors.<\/p>\n
\"This is about service and quality,\" he said. \"Suits and other
\nclothing must fix the body. It's made to measure. The result will
\nprove the expertise of the maker.\"<\/p>\n
\"Some people are fond of buying branded suits. But many of
\nthem usually see tailors for alterations as, frequently, particu
\nlar parts of the suits do not match perfectly with their body
\nshapes.\"<\/p>\n
Vice chairman of the Indonesian Tailor Association (ITA),
\nSunder B.C., agrees that tailors will always have a place.<\/p>\n
\"Mass production usually has the same model, limited choice of
\ncolors and sizes,\" he said.<\/p>\n
Customers who understand more sophisticated apparel or who
\nwant to dress up to the nines will seek out tailors for their
\nclothing. \"They will have more choices in color, types of
\nmaterial. The clothing will, of course, fit perfectly with their
\nbodies.<\/p>\n
\"People will have satisfaction at tailors,\" he said.<\/p>\n
ITA, set up in 1981, now groups 165 tailors, 63 out which are
\nlocated in Jakarta.<\/p>\n
\"Through the association we can participate in worldwide
\ntailor-related activities including events held by the Federation
\nof Asian Master Tailor and the World Tailor Congress,\" Sunder
\nexplained, adding that members of the association could also
\nlearn new tailoring methods and other developments in the busi
\nness.<\/p>\n
\"We will also participate in a tailor congress on July 29 in
\nValencia, Spain. There we can share our experiences and observe
\nthe tailoring development.\"<\/p>\n
According to Sunder, ITA members now comprise only \"high
\nlevel\" clothes-makers. \"We also want the medium and small tailors
\nto join the association, but financial issues often hinder them
\nfrom joining.\"<\/p>\n
Another executive of the association, Uun F. Firmansyah, said
\ntailors and fashion designers were not in competition.<\/p>\n
\"Tailors and designers go their own ways. We also have good
\nprospects for the future. People will always see tailors for good
\nclothes.\"<\/p>\n
Sunder said that although the tailoring business has
\nflourished in the country, Indonesia, unlike other countries,
\ndoes not have any institutions for teaching the craft.<\/p>\n
He touched on the difference between a tailor and modiste, who
\ndeals with only designing or sewing. \"Tailoring includes raw
\nmaterial making, textile selection, choice of colors, cutting,
\nsewing and measuring.\"<\/p>\n
Process<\/p>\n
Professional clothes-makers, according to Adnani, will usually
\nneed some eight hours to make a suit or four hours for a pair of
\ntrousers.<\/p>\n
\"I don't know if there are tailors who can guarantee that they
\ncould tailor a suit within three hours,\" he said, referring to
\nthe promotional gimmicks of some tailors, including several in
\nthe Pasar Baru area in Central Jakarta, who claim they can turn
\nout a suit in that time.<\/p>\n
Adnani said tailoring begins when customers come for a new
\nsuit.<\/p>\n
\"If they don't have their own materials, customers will first
\nselect the sort and colors of the cloth and then ask for the
\nprice. After pricing is agreed, they will have themselves
\nmeasured. After the material is cut by a master tailor, it is
\ndelivered to a chief who is responsible for preparing the sewing
\nequipment.<\/p>\n
\"The suit is then tailored. This means that 75 percent of the
\nwork is done. Then the almost-finished suit is returned to the
\nmaster who will ask customers to fit it. If everything runs
\nsmoothly, the suit will be just completed.\"<\/p>\n
As a business, tailors have to offer quality services, Adnani
\nadded, stating that professionally tailored suits could cause
\ndramatic changes in appearance, such as making an overweight
\nperson appear slimmer.<\/p>\n
\"A good suit can hide fat, for instance. Sometimes we see
\ngentlemen wearing single or double-breasted but their appearance
\nis not neat.<\/p>\n
\"Nowadays the main material is as thin as the lining material.
\nSo how we tailor the materials together into a comfortable and
\ngood suit is also an art,\" he said.<\/p>\n
He said suits presently cost about Rp 8 million (US$3,265)
\ndepending on the materials and that many people still hunt for
\nthe expensive international brands like Scabal, Dormeuil, Minova,
\nMario Zegna and Dunhill.<\/p>\n
Quality<\/p>\n
Srivishnu was set up in 1965 by Adnani's father, a Pakistan
\nnative. The tailor now operates three outlets in Jakarta.<\/p>\n
\"As a small tailor with three branches, we have to keep our
\nquality,\" Adnani said. Several high-ranking government officials
\nand celebrities, such as Governor of Bank Indonesia Sudradjad
\nDjiwandono, tycoon Sudwikatmono and the chief of National Police
\nGen. Dibyo Widodo, are among his customers.<\/p>\n
Srivishnu never loses customers because of the adherence to
\nquality, he said.<\/p>\n
\"We'll apologize to our customers to be patient when we need
\nmore time to finish their suits. There are times when we find
\nsomething has to be fixed after the fitting session. Or, we'll
\nask them to return it to us after they've used the suit for a
\nquick repair. This is to keep our quality.\"<\/p>\n
He said their suits could also be altered if the owners got
\nfatter or thinner. \"Ready-made ones usually cannot be renewed.\"<\/p>\n
Adnani usually travels abroad to keep up with fashion-related
\ndevelopments.<\/p>\n
\"Sometimes I buy a suit and examine it just to know how to
\nmake it. If we succeed in breaking it down and returning it to
\nthe original form, we will be able to make something like it.\"<\/p>\n
He said that Srivishnu currently receives at least 60 suit
\norders per month, some 15 out of which are for women.<\/p>",
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