Spicing things up at Martabak Mesir Kubang<\/p>\n
JAKARTA (JP): The streets are filled with vendors offering
\nthat favorite snack-time bite martabak, a rich pancake with
\neither a sweet filling (take your pick from peanuts, cheese,
\nchocolate sprinkles, or a devilish mix of them all) or minced
\nbeef or lamb.<\/p>\n
It's usually a takeout meal, and rare is the place that
\nprovides an area to sit down and munch on it while it's still
\npiping hot. We tried one of the few martabak eateries which does.<\/p>\n
Martabak Mesir Kubang, Jl. Dr. Saharjo No. 98, South Jakarta
\n(accessible from Casablanca), next to BRI, and near Manggarai,
\nand Jl. Raya Kalimalang 14 B, East Jakarta.<\/p>\n
Open: 11:30 a.m. to midnight.<\/p>\n
What's it got: The restaurant has food from Padang, West
\nSumatra, such as soto Padang (a clear soup consisting of meat,
\nusually liver or other offal, onion, crispy beef, fried potatoes
\nand white noodles), satay Padang (spicy mutton satay), mutton
\ncurry and roti cane (a fried bread served with dips of mutton
\ncurry or ketchup).<\/p>\n
But as to be expected from the name (mesir means Egypt in
\nIndonesian), the main dishes are a large omelet filled with
\nchopped meat and vegetables, served with a hot sweet and sour
\nsauce, and spicy mutton curry served with rice or roti cane.<\/p>\n
If you would rather do without the spice (but why eat here in
\nthe first place), there are fried rice, fried and boiled noodles.
\nRice and ketupat (rice steamed in coconut leaves) are also
\navailable.<\/p>\n
There are the usual soft drinks and juices, plus some other
\nbeverages, including es tebak (a syrup of fermented cassava,
\nbread and local fruit). Chocolate milk, tea and coffee are on
\noffer.<\/p>\n
Price Points: Martabak ranges from Rp 7,500 to Rp 15,000,
\nsatay Padang for a reasonable Rp 7,000, roti cane kari kambing
\nfor Rp 11,000 per serving, soto Padang at Rp 7,500 per serving,
\nmutton curry for Rp 7,000 per serving, fried rice and noodles at
\nRp 7,000, rice at Rp 2000 per serving, and ketupat coming in at
\nRp 700.<\/p>\n
Looks: A grade above the standard sidewalk eatery. The two-
\nstory restaurant has a restroom, a no-smoking area and a
\nwashbasin. Other little luxuries include air-conditioning,
\ntelevision and paintings -- and comfortable seats.<\/p>\n
Owner Iwan Nasiswa, the younger brother of the restaurant's
\nfounder H. Yusri Darwis, has 12 uniformed workers who are quick
\non their feet. It took a minute for our beverage and soup orders,
\nand no more than 10 minutes to get our main menu items of
\nmartabak and roti cane.<\/p>\n
Popular with...: Office workers from Jl. Casablanca, shop
\nworkers from the businesses on Jl. Saharjo, civil servants from
\nnearby government offices and residents of the surrounding
\nManggarai and Tebet areas.<\/p>\n
Taste Factor: The pancake is delicious, but loaded with meat
\nand spices, which will be a matter of taste for diners. It
\nsmelled heady with the aroma of chilies, which Iwan swore were
\nbrought all the way from chili country in the highlands of West
\nSumatra.<\/p>\n
The roti cane, which owes its origins to India but is most
\ncommonly associated in this country with the pancakes served up
\nin Medan, was thin, crisp but, again, potently spicy. Restaurant
\nlore has it that Iwan's brother met an Indian cook in Medan and
\nlearned the recipe from him.<\/p>\n
Minus Points: The noise pollution from busy Jl. Saharjo can be
\ndisturbing. As there is no parking area, customers' vehicles
\ncause a traffic jam in busy daytime hours (it's no problem at
\nnight as they can park in the BRI parking lot, next to the
\nrestaurant).<\/p>\n
Verdict: A taste of this martabak was enough to take me back
\nto fond culinary memories of my hometown Bandung, which is famous
\nfor its variation of the dish. Although a bit too highly spiced
\nfor my liking, it was tempting enough to forget all the best
\nintentions about laying off high-caloric fare. (Sri Ramadani)<\/p>",
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