Silkworms spin employment for thousands in Central Java<\/p>\n
By Ahmad Solikhan and Abu Ibrahim<\/p>\n
YOGYAKARTA (JP): Under the blazing sun, five farmers harvested
\nTaztar curicula silkworm cocoons on their cashew nut farm in
\nNgadirejo village, Wonogiri, Central Java.<\/p>\n
As at the beginning of every dry season, wild silkworms have
\nswarmed over the cashew nut trees and devoured their leaves. But
\ncashew farmers do not count this as a loss because the animals
\nleave behind cocoons that fetch Rp 25,000 (about US$2) per
\nkilogram.<\/p>\n
They sell the cocoons to a Yogyakarta-based businessman who
\nmakes a lot of money through exporting spun silk to Japan.<\/p>\n
The Taztar curicula silkworm, which locals call the golden
\nsilkworm, can also live on uta-heite apple (Spondias dulcis) and
\ncinnamon (Cinnamomum burmani) leaves.<\/p>\n
Unlike silkworms that live on mulberry leaves, the locals know
\nno technique by which to breed this particular species of worm,
\nwhich can measure up to five centimeters long.<\/p>\n
The golden silkworm cocoon business began two years ago in
\nKaliurang near Yogyakarta, Wonogiri, Blitar and Malang (both in
\nEast Java) and several places in West Java. Until then, the
\nworms' economic value was not known.<\/p>\n
Cocoons need careful handling, particularly in the harvesting
\nbecause they are easily damaged. They are taken down from trees
\nwith bamboo poles.<\/p>\n
Sukarno Adib, 50, a silkworm cocoon trader from Kaliurang,
\nsays cocoons should be harvested no later than 20 days after they
\nhave been built.<\/p>\n
\"Longer than 20 days, the cocoons will make a lower quality
\nsilk,\" he said.<\/p>\n
Between two and three ounces of cocoons can usually be
\nharvested from a single cashew nut tree. Each farmer can collect
\nabout one kilogram a day, which Adib buys for Rp 25,000.<\/p>\n
The cocoons are taken in special packages to Kaliurang where
\nthey are cleaned and the outer layer of each cocoon removed by
\nworkers that Adib pays Rp 10,000 per each kilogram.<\/p>\n
Adib then sells each kilogram of cleaned cocoons for Rp 65,000
\nto a spinner in Kaliurang.<\/p>\n
After being thoroughly cleaned, the cocoons are soaked in
\nboiling water and then spun by hand into threads. The yarn is
\ndried under the sun.<\/p>\n
The Kaliurang cocoon factory started two years ago when Medik
\nInternational Corporation (MIC), a silk manufacturing company
\nbased in Tokyo approached local entrepreneurs after it ran into
\ndifficulty finding raw materials,<\/p>\n
The Japanese company was overwhelmed by orders for top quality
\nsilk and research had shown that several places in Indonesia were
\nsuitable for golden silkworms.<\/p>\n
Nanang Azrin, the manager of a thread manufacturing firm in
\nKaliurang, said that MIC opened a branch in Kaliurang.<\/p>\n
He recalls that Mashashi Hani, MIC's finance manager, provided
\nhim with capital, production equipment and the offer of a regular
\nsalary if he agreed to sell all his produce to MIC.<\/p>\n
Azrin said the Japanese company ordered 3,500 kilograms of
\nsilk a year, but he can only produce 980 kilograms.<\/p>\n
To meet the increased demand, Azrin plans to open branches in
\nBlitar and Malang in East Java and several places in West Java.<\/p>\n
Besides thread, Azrin's factory also produces pressed silk. To
\nproduce the cloth, Azrin imports Japanese chiffon cloths, each
\nmeasuring 60cm wide and 60cm long, which he covers in special
\nglue. The cocoons are stretched and spread on the chiffon cloth,
\npressed with a special tool, then turned outside in to obtain a
\nfine piece of cloth.<\/p>\n
Today, Azrin employs 230 people, most of whom are women.<\/p>\n
\"Women are better at doing tedious jobs than men,\" he argues.<\/p>\n
Nita, 20, said she worked nine hours a day, starting at 8 a.m.
\nin the morning, for which she gets paid Rp 180,000 per month.<\/p>\n
Parto Dinomo, 70, works part-time peeling cocoons while
\ntending to her food stall. She sells tempeh, tofu and glutinous
\nrice cakes from a stall outside her house.<\/p>\n
\"Everyday I handle 1.5 ounces of cocoons and get paid Rp
\n1,500,\" she said.<\/p>\n
The cocoon business in Kaliurang employs thousands of people.
\nIt is most likely that none of them know that their handiwork,
\nafter being polished off with modern technology, is sold as a
\nluxury good in Japan.<\/p>\n
According to Azrin, a small bag with a silk trim could fetch
\nthe equivalent of Rp 20 million in Japan. MIC products, he said,
\nare sold in upmarket stores in Japan.<\/p>\n
Top quality silk imported from Indonesia is popular among
\nfamous celebrities and the wives of senior government officials.
\nA silk kimono (night gown) reportedly sells for the equivalent of
\nRp 300 million in Japan.<\/p>\n
And the lucrative business benefits neither Indonesian farmers
\nnor Kaliurang's silk workers.<\/p>",
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