Sapu Lidi sweeps all before it in Bandung<\/p>\n
BANDUNG (JP): What springs to mind when you hear the name
\nBandung? The Paris of the East, art deco, the student scene, the
\ncold? All of these perhaps? For me, however, when I hear the name
\nBandung it always conjures up in my mind images of the gentle
\nSundanese culture and epicurean delights.<\/p>\n
For many, the name Bandung is almost synonymous with good
\nfood, and the people of that fine city take a deep and quiet
\npride in their culinary heritage and skills, a pride that is
\noften found lacking among those staffing the restaurants of
\nJakarta, that great melting pot where everyone is a blow-in and
\nfew deign to call home. Aside from the Betawi (native Jakartans),
\nif you were to ask people on a Jakarta street where they came
\nfrom, you can rest assured that most would give the name of just
\nabout anywhere other than the capital, even if they were born in
\nJakarta.<\/p>\n
Things are different in the capital of West Java, the home of
\nthe distinctive Sundanese culture.<\/p>\n
The unassuming pride in local culinary traditions and produce
\nthat makes Bandung such a delightful place to dine is writ large
\nfor all to see at Sapu Lidi on Jl. Cihampelas, the street
\nrenowned as the center of Bandung's jeans shops. The words sapu
\nlidi in English mean the little twig broom that is used in
\nIndonesia for light sweeping.<\/p>\n
However, this particular restaurant is not just memorable for
\nits name, as both its design and, most importantly, the food it
\nserves are outstanding.<\/p>\n
Built around a narrow alleyway and, further in, a courtyard
\ncontaining a small open-sided Sundanese pavilion, Sapu Lidi
\nconsists of a number of small dining rooms, and some secretive
\nsemi-private booths, all interconnected and conjoined in a way
\nthat suggests the contrasting feelings of intimacy and privacy.<\/p>\n
The architecture is reminiscent of what is often referred to
\nas the Indies style, with high ceilings, windows and doors, heavy
\nwood paneling and exposed ceiling beams, giving the simultaneous
\nimpression of both sophistication and rusticity. Low lamps
\nhanging over the tables flicker candle-like, serving to increase
\nthe intimate and romantic ambience. With the rain coming down in
\ntorrents and a black night enveloping all outside, sitting inside
\nSapu Lidi one could almost imagine oneself wrapped up in a warm
\nand protective cocoon, surrounded by the low buzz of pleasant
\nconversation and the mouthwatering aromas emanating from the
\nkitchen.<\/p>\n
Time to order! The menu contained a veritable cornucopia of
\nSundanese, as well as Javanese and even Chinese, dishes, and we
\nwere hard pressed to make a selection. In the end, my partner
\ndecided to try the bubur ayam (chicken porridge), a Bandung
\nspeciality, accompanied by lumpia geleng (deep fried egg roll
\nwith a spicy meat filling) and a portion of kroket lengket
\n(potato croquettes mixed with ground and lightly spiced meat). As
\nfor myself, I opted for the sop buntut (Indonesian oxtail soup),
\nfollowed by ayam jagoan sapulidi (chicken in a Chinese-influenced
\nbarbecue sauce) and lumpia leutik (deep fried egg roll with a
\nvegetable filling).<\/p>\n
Both of us also ordered plain steamed rice to complement our
\nmeal.<\/p>\n
Most frequently eaten for breakfast, but not out of place at
\nany time of day, Bandung's bubur ayam is justly famous in many
\nparts of the archipelago. According to my dining companion, it
\nalso proved to be just what the doctor ordered on a cold and wet
\nBandung evening. The porridge had been simmered in chicken broth,
\nthe litmus test of good bubur ayam, to imbue it with a delicious,
\nhearty taste, and was topped by a generous portion of shredded
\nchicken, soy sauce and croutons.<\/p>\n
Although chicken porridge is a dish primarily intended for
\nimmediate sustenance rather than esthetic pleasure, the Sapu Lidi
\npresentation turned out to be a rhapsody of harmoniously arranged
\ncolors, with bright green and red chilies shouting out their
\nwarnings, enticing soft brown croutons, dark soy sauce and
\nsprightly young sprigs of fennel all competing for the mesmerized
\neye's attention.<\/p>\n
Meanwhile, the sop buntut I had ordered arrived steaming in a
\nsolid earthenware bowl sitting inside a delightful wickerwork
\nbasket, a superb advertisement on its own for Sudanese
\nhandicrafts. Greasy and well-spiced, with starchy potatoes, soft
\ncarrots and generous and well-simmered slices of oxtail with the
\nmeat literally falling of the bone (the only way to eat this is
\nto get stuck in with the fingers), one couldn't help feeling that
\nthe Dutch may have had some influence in the development of this
\ndish. Whatever its origin, however, the subtly spiced broth was
\nsuperb, perhaps the best exemplar of the dish I've tasted on my
\ntravels in Java.<\/p>\n
Following the soup, my ayam jagoan sapulidi was promptly
\nserved up, as were the meat and vegetable egg rolls, as well as
\nthe croquettes my companion had ordered. Once again, superlatives
\nwere in no way out of place. The sliced, boneless half chicken
\nwas barbecued, with the skin crispy and dry, and was set off to
\nperfection by a tart barbecue sauce, something akin to a sweet
\nand sour sauce but less sweet.<\/p>\n
The chicken, tender and cooked to perfection, was accompanied
\nby a cool and refreshing Sundanese salad tastefully arranged on a
\nside plate. All in all, once again a highly satisfying
\ncombination of flavors, colors and aromas.<\/p>\n
The egg rolls and the croquettes (more Dutch influence), were
\naccompanied by the chef's special sambal (chili) sauce, a mild
\nand sweet sauce which again brought Chinese cuisine to mind.
\nParticular kudos to the chef for his lumpia geleng. Praise is
\nalso in order for the outstanding young waiters and waitresses
\nwho kept the plates and the drinks coming without a hitch,
\ndespite the crowds.<\/p>\n
Our meal for two came to a grand total of Rp 82,500 (no
\nalcoholic drinks), exceptionally good value at the present time,
\ndoubly so given the excellent quality of the food. There is no
\ndoubt that with its combination of great value for money,
\nexcellent dining, highly competent staff and a wonderfully
\nevocative atmosphere, Sapu Lidi is way up there with the best of
\nthem. Strongly recommended! (Bill Blade)<\/p>\n
Sapu Lidi, Jl. Cihampelas 107, Bandung, phone: (022) 2034109<\/p>", "url": "https:\/\/jawawa.id\/newsitem\/sapu-lidi-sweeps-all-before-it-in-bandung-1447893297", "image": "" }, "sponsor": "Okusi Associates", "sponsor_url": "https:\/\/okusiassociates.com" }