Rift splits ranks of local fashion designers<\/p>\n
JAKARTA (JP): An enduring feud belies the glittering face of
\nIndonesian fashion.<\/p>\n
Many local fashion designers are now clustered in either of
\ntwo organizations -- the Indonesian Fashion Design Council (IPMI)
\nand the Indonesian Fashion Designer Association (APPMI). The
\nformer groups about 39 members and APPMI has 79. Since their
\nestablishment more than a decade ago, they have taken different
\npaths.<\/p>\n
Some established designers prefer to keep out of the fray and
\ndo not belong to the groups.<\/p>\n
Samuel Wattimena, a former member of both groups, said, "Well,
\nthe cold war probably occurred since the beginning, many, many
\nyears ago.<\/p>\n
"Today, such discord should no longer exist anymore."<\/p>\n
A senior member of IPMI, Carmanita Mamboe, explained that each
\norganization had its own objectives.<\/p>\n
"IPMI's members focus more on creativity, esthetics ... on
\nbeing a real artist," she said.<\/p>\n
APPMI's biggest concern is not only to enhance its members'
\ndesign skills but also to empower them to become professional
\nbusinesspeople, Samuel said.<\/p>\n
"They (designers) must be able to market their products, to
\ndeal with their buyers and join the fashion industry and retail
\nassociation."<\/p>\n
He added curtly that any rivalry between the two organizations
\nwas probably the personal feelings of one or two designers.<\/p>\n
Chairwoman of IPMI Sjamsidar Isa stated her willingness to
\ncooperate with APPMI and other independent designers.<\/p>\n
APPMI's chairman Musa Widyatmodjo shared a similar view. "We
\nhave no problem at all," said Musa.<\/p>\n
The amiable words do not translate into actions.<\/p>\n
Many new graduates of fashion design schools across the
\ncountry struggle to join both fashion associations, wishing to
\ngain the best from them<\/p>\n
Take Kanaya Tabitha, a new emerging designer, who was eager to
\njoin both organizations. She found it was not possible.<\/p>\n
"Why did I have to go solo? Because I could not join them
\nboth," Samuel said.<\/p>\n
He added there was no logical reason for each association to
\nprohibit its members from joining the other group because they
\nwere established with different purposes. Each group could
\ncomplement each other, Samuel said.<\/p>\n
It is not that easy in reality; it's almost impossible to
\nbring the two groups together.<\/p>\n
In 1996, the Jakarta Tourist Agency invited members of APPMI
\nand IPMI to jointly hold a major fashion event, titled Jakarta
\nFashion Week. It was supposed to be an annual event, but it
\nground to a halt.<\/p>\n
The monetary crisis was considered a reason, but many put the
\nmajor factor as the rivalry between the two groups.<\/p>\n
IPMI recently closed its annual Luminaire Trend IPMI 2001,
\nheld from Oct. 16 to Oct. 19, while APPMI will hold its Fashion
\nTendance from Nov. 9 to Nov. 12.<\/p>\n
Although the discord may seem endless, both organizations have
\nmade major contributions to the development of the local fashion
\nindustry.<\/p>\n
IPMI has actively pushed its members to attend various
\ninternational fashion events. It also participates in regular
\ncontests, both locally and abroad.<\/p>\n
IPMI can also boast of its members' creativity. Members like
\nGhea S. Panggabean and Carmanita have conducted a great variety
\nof research and experimentation on designs and fabrics.<\/p>\n
Ghea is well-known for her ethnic-themed collection and the
\njumputan tie-dye technique, while Carmanita recently made
\nheadlines for her lycra batik.<\/p>\n
APPMI has supported its members to become skillful and
\nprofessional designers and businesspeople.<\/p>\n
It also works closely with the Indonesian Chamber of Commerce
\n(Kadin) and international fashion associations such as the Hong
\nKong Trade Development Council and the Japan-based Total Fashion.
\nAPPMI's members regularly join Total Fashion's annual Asia
\nFashion Grand Prix International contest.<\/p>\n
The organization also holds training, workshops
\nand seminars.<\/p>\n
"If one member attends a seminar, he or she has to share his
\nknowledge and experience with others," Musa said.<\/p>\n
"So each member is a teacher and also a student as well,"
\nadded Poppy Dharsono, the founder of APPMI. "We are here to unite
\nthose who want to pursue a career in the fashion world."<\/p>\n
In the reform era, designers have the option to join the
\norganizations -- or go it alone on local runways.<\/p>\n
The world is shrinking, thanks to rapid technological
\nprogress. People can quickly and easily access information on
\nfashion from around the globe. Fashion designers can show their
\nwork on the Net, and conduct transactions through e-commerce.<\/p>\n
With such significant changes, some are asking if local
\ndesigners still need the helping hand of the associations. (Agni
\nAmorita)<\/p>",
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