Problems bombard Portuguese fortress<\/p>\n
Text and photos by A'an Suryana<\/p>\n
JEPARA, Central Java (JP): Ask any school kid about Jepara,
\nand they might enthusiastically answer that it was the birthplace
\nof Indonesian women's emancipation heroine RA Kartini in 1879.<\/p>\n
They might also mention that it is a center for wood carvings,
\nwhich is correct, as its products have been exported to many
\ncountries.<\/p>\n
Few, however, are likely to know that Jepara regency also has
\na tourist attraction, the ruins of the Benteng Portugis
\n(Portuguese fortress), which is located on the northern tip of
\nJava, some 48 kms from downtown Jepara. It is 90 kms from the
\nprovincial capital of Semarang, but transportation is not a
\nproblem as there are many public buses serving the route.<\/p>\n
The fortress sits atop Donorojo hill in Banyumanis village,
\nKeling district. A dense forest of old trees covers the small
\nhill, creating shade and comfort for the visitors. The hilltop
\nprovides a beautiful view of surrounding areas, including
\nuninhabited Mandalika island, some 500 meters away and separated
\nby a tiny strait of the Java Sea.<\/p>\n
To the west one can observe activities of hundreds of
\nfishermen, who dock their boats at nearby coastal areas.<\/p>\n
Turning back to the mainland, there is the beauty of Pucang
\nPendowo mountain, stretching to the east.<\/p>\n
During the trek down the hill people can observe the dynamic
\nwaves of the Java Sea.<\/p>\n
In fact, some tourists are more impressed by the view than the
\nremains of the fortress.<\/p>\n
\"The fortress might not be so good, but the surrounding nature
\nis amazing,\" Masruch, a local tourist, said.<\/p>\n
It is a pity the fortress, built in the 17th century by the
\nSultanate of Mataram, lies in ruins and all that remains is a
\nstretch of brick wall.<\/p>\n
More alarming is the poor management and maintenance of the
\nsite.<\/p>\n
In 1989 the government built several gazebos and also
\nconstructed concrete steps to allow people to travel up the hill.
\nToday, all the walls at the site, including the roofs of the
\ngazebos, are defaced by graffiti.<\/p>\n
Head of the regency's tourist agency Teguh Supurbo
\nacknowledged the sorry state of the fortress but noted the
\nfrustration of combating vandalism.<\/p>\n
\"Soon after we remove the graffiti, it is up again,\" he told
\nThe Jakarta Post at his office earlier this month.<\/p>\n
He agreed that robbers were active at the site until two years
\nago, but said it stopped after an angry crowd set upon an alleged
\ncriminal and killed him.<\/p>\n
\"After the death of the robber in November 1997, there were no
\nmore muggings,\" Teguh said.<\/p>\n
Another problem lingers as visitors are forced to pay illegal
\nlevies. In addition to the official entrance ticket sold at the
\ngate by the Jepara administration and the parking fee, visitors
\nmust pay for what is termed an \"archaeological service\".<\/p>\n
At least three people stand at every stop along the route and
\ncharge a motorbike rider Rp 500, while those driving a car have
\nto pay Rp 1,500.<\/p>\n
The collectors are locals and former patients of the nearby
\nDonorojo Leprosy Hospital.<\/p>\n
They began collecting because of a dispute about the
\nmanagement of the fortress between the tourist office and the
\nhospital.<\/p>\n
A hospital administrator said the leprosy patients had the
\nright to manage the site.<\/p>\n
\"The Dutch handed over management of 179 hectares of land,
\nincluding the land where the fortress is located, to the
\nhospital,\" said the staff member, who spoke on the condition of
\nanonymity.<\/p>\n
Teguh said the land was under the supervision of the Jepara
\nadministration.<\/p>\n
\"Since the handover of authority from the Dutch to the
\nRepublic of Indonesia, the land was owned by the republic
\n(state). The state handed over several hectares of land to be
\nowned by the hospital, but the ownership of the fortress remains
\nin the hands of the government.\"<\/p>\n
He said it did not make sense for the hospital to take over
\nmanagement of the site.<\/p>\n
\"We are much more professional than them,\" he said.<\/p>\n
The administration urged the leprosy patients to stay where
\nthey are in return for a share of the revenue. \"But they refused
\nthe offer,\" he said.<\/p>\n
Teguh said the administration took a \"persuasive approach\" to
\nthe matter through approaching village heads and local public
\nfigures. \"However, the practice (of collecting) is still rampant,
\nespecially during the school vacation and Idul Fitri holiday.\"<\/p>\n
In 1998, the fortress attracted more than 47,000 tourists,
\nincluding 163 foreigners, generating more than Rp 40 million in
\nrevenue. But the number plummeted last year. From January to
\nOctober last year, there were only 127 foreign tourists and less
\nthan 25,000 locals visiting the fortress, with total revenue of
\nRp 16.7 million.<\/p>\n
The administration has set a revenue target of Rp 24 million
\nin the 1999\/2000 budget year, but much may depend on improving
\nmanagement of the site and resolving the problems.<\/p>",
"url": "https:\/\/jawawa.id\/newsitem\/problems-bombard-portuguese-fortress-1447893297",
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