Obin: Handmade gems, but don't use the 'e' word<\/p>\n
Hera Diani, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta<\/p>\n
There is always a treat in store at the fashion shows of noted
\ncloth designer Obin. Aside from the expected array of beautiful
\ntraditional cloth and the tasty spread of local cuisine served
\nbefore the show, there is quirkiness and theatricality in the
\npresentation.<\/p>\n
Last week's show included child singer Tina Toon strutting
\ndown the 40-meter catwalk connecting two stages, doing her
\nversion of the \"drilling\" dance moves of popular singer Inul
\nDaratista.<\/p>\n
What distinguishes Obin's show from other \"look-at-me\" local
\nfashion presentations is that the combined effect of a plump 10-
\nyear-old girl performing a very adult dance, the stage props and
\nthe models' theatrical moves never seemed forced or pretentious.<\/p>\n
All of it came together to highlight the real star of the show
\n-- the stunning cloth, all of which is handmade.<\/p>\n
Derived from traditional sources, the cloths are woven,
\nembroidered, stitched-dyed, tie-dyed, smocked and ripped, before
\nObin's BIN House turns them into excellent sets for women, men,
\nbridal and kids.<\/p>\n
The latter was the reason Tina was on stage in the first
\nplace.<\/p>\n
\"I want to reject the sense of wearing (traditional) cloth,
\nthat it's not merely for occasions like a wedding party. It
\ndoesn't mean that it's a drawback for us (to wear it), it aims at
\ngoing back to our habitat, our culture,\" Obin, or Josephine
\nWerratie Komara, told a media conference prior to the show.<\/p>\n
In her own everyday wear of kebaya (traditional blouse) and
\nkain (cloth wrap), the 48-year-old master of batik and other
\nindigenous textiles said she felt offended when her compatriots
\ncalled her style \"ethnic\".<\/p>\n
\"Ball gowns or tuxedo are considered classic, but why is the
\nkebaya called ethnic? If foreigners call it ethnic, fine. But
\nit's strange when Indonesians call it the same. Because this
\noutfit is classical Indonesian,\" said Obin, who has been working
\nwith traditional cloth since 1975 and whose boutiques are found
\nin Japan, Taiwan, Singapore, Hong Kong and the Netherlands.<\/p>\n
In a less colossal presentation than last year's, the show
\ncalled Matahati (conscience) brought to the stage some 200 sets
\nof clothes, made up of around 600 pieces of 300 different types
\nof cloth.<\/p>\n
If last year's collection consisted of stonewashed jeans,
\nponcho blouses and bustiers aside from the mainstay kebaya, this
\nyear's women collection weighed in with a more elegant
\nassortment.<\/p>\n
It consisted of old-school kebaya, cheongsam and their
\nmodification, as well as contemporary gowns.<\/p>\n
There were blouses inspired by the Balinese classical kebaya,
\nwhile another derived from Javanese or even European style, with
\nruffles on the wrist and along the collar and front.<\/p>\n
Obin also took some inspiration from Muslim dress, as well as
\nmore contemporary fashion applied in long tube dress, or evening
\ngowns.<\/p>\n
Some outfits followed the curve of women's bodies, but others
\nwere straight or even asymmetrical in cut. The motifs were
\nstripes, geometrical, floral or plaid.<\/p>\n
Obin and her main designer Cita never follow a particular
\nfashion trend, as Obin said being fashionable was far more
\nimportant than fashion.<\/p>\n
\"It will last longer,\" she said, emphasizing that all of the
\nhandmade designs were \"made with heart, by workers that are more
\ndeserving of being called artisans.\"<\/p>\n
All of the dresses were accompanied by shawls, which are
\nmodified from traditional batik to ikat weavings or jumputan dye.
\nSome shawls were a combination of different techniques, looking
\nlike patchwork, drapery or even wool.<\/p>\n
They all came rich in motifs, texture and colors, the latter
\nearthy and natural -- bottle green, purple, brown, red and all --
\nand carefully and beautifully combined. A standout was a baby
\npink kebaya with aquamarine scarf, mixed with matching kain, for
\na very pretty effect.<\/p>\n
As for the men's collection, the main inspiration was baju
\nkoko Muslim dress, with the modification in the details, such as
\nthe side pocket or the collar -- Chinese style or asymmetric.<\/p>\n
\"We also just come up with a new technique, making long
\ntrousers from handwoven cloth. After six years observation, only
\nnow have we succeeded in making creased and neat trousers,\" Obin
\nsaid.<\/p>\n
Although she has been producing wedding dresses for years, the
\nshow last week was the first to include a bridal sequence.<\/p>\n
The collection comprises an all-white wedding dress, made up
\nof different styles: Kebaya, cheongsam and Western-style wedding
\ndress. There was also one design that was accompanied by a burqa-
\ninspired veil, very elegant and beautiful.<\/p>\n
The show also marked the launching of a kids and teens
\ncollection, ranging from two years to 17.<\/p>\n
The children looked very cute in fluffy dresses, tunics,
\nspaghetti strap dresses or even the kebaya and kain.<\/p>\n
The latter idea, according to Obin, came as she found quality
\nready-to-wear children's collections expensive, although it is
\ndoubtful that her excellent designs will be cheaper.<\/p>\n
The main purpose is to familiarize the younger generation with
\ntraditional cloth.<\/p>\n
\"Traditional cloth is very good in quality, very old and very
\nrich. Parents will not have to worry that children will not be
\ncomfortable wearing it. All of my children have been wearing kain
\nsince an early age, it's fine,\" she said.<\/p>\n
\"Today's children won't be familiar with traditional cloth
\nwhen they grow up. But it's not too late to introduce them to it
\nnow.\"<\/p>",
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"sponsor": "Okusi Associates",
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