Minahasa: A subdued warior rise again<\/p>\n
Froly Lelengboto Horn, Contributor, Manado, North Sulawesi<\/p>\n
That frightening clunking of wheels released for touchdown jerked
\nme out of a stupor.<\/p>\n
Through the window of the tilting airplane, the poetic
\nappellation Tanah Nyiur Melambai (the land of waving coconut
\ntrees) definitely seemed like an understatement.<\/p>\n
Millions of coconut trees along the coast and inland form an
\nexotic velvety carpet in the unseen breeze, among which houses
\nseem like unnecessary trespassers here and there, except for the
\nhuge cluster of buildings dominating Manado City.<\/p>\n
Manado City belongs to all peoples of North Sulawesi. However,
\nthe Minahasa people, being the majority in number and in
\ninfluence, have always been identified with this ancient city
\nwhich was originally called Wenang.<\/p>\n
From my vantage point I could make out the huge gold letters
\nalong the top of the airport's main building: SAM RATULANGI, the
\nname of one of Minahasa's favorite sons and Indonesia's first
\ndoctor of mathematics, who along with the duo of Sukarno and
\nMohamad Hatta and other political leaders helped define the
\nnation of Indonesia.<\/p>\n
\"Have the descendants of To'ar and Lumimu'ut awakened to their
\ncultural heritage yet?\" was the thought that burgeoned in my
\nconsciousness as I proceeded to the baggage claim area like Alice
\nin Wonderland.<\/p>\n
Three years ago I had to fight my way in a tiny room of a
\nmake-do airport. Arrivals and their welcomers swarmed chaotically
\naround the baggage conveyor belt, sweating like their favorite
\nthoroughbred in an anxious pre-race wait.<\/p>\n
Now, the transformation is obvious. Vast, playful spaciousness
\nis the ambience successfully created by the almost asymmetrical
\nwalls. Along those walls are glass mosaic windows, adding to the
\nrefreshing impression with a banquet of colors -- sea blue as
\nbackdrop -- depicting the ancient legends of the once proud
\nwarrior-people.<\/p>\n
The present baggage area is a huge airy lounge -- big green
\npot plants breaking the whiteness all round -- filled with
\nexpectant porters. A long automatic glass door separated the
\nbaggage reclaim area and the arrival lounge, or shall I say
\narrival terrace, as it leads down directly on to a beautifully
\nlandscaped parking area that flaunts all sorts of tropical plants
\nsprawled beneath the swaying shades of luscious coconut trees.<\/p>\n
Compared to porters in other airports around Indonesia, these
\nones convey unusual confidence and a sense of having a right to
\nbe there. They are right there in your face.<\/p>\n
\"Where can I find a trolley?\" I queried one of them.<\/p>\n
The amicably faced young man smiled widely as only an equal
\nwould: \"There is no trolley, Madam. That's why we are here.\"<\/p>\n
Here is probably the only international airport in the world
\nwhere no trolley is available.<\/p>\n
That's the inside. From the outside, the building -- its tall
\nround pillars the dominant external features -- is a 21st century
\ninterpretation of the Minahasa traditional rumah tinggi
\n(literally tall house, or house on poles). A gigantic one, that
\nis.<\/p>\n
Although the traditional house is customarily made of wood,
\nthis one is of solid concrete painted in a sophisticated white.<\/p>\n
It was a good sign indeed, and I gave a long hopeful sigh.<\/p>\n
The name \"Minahasa\" derives from the word Mina Esa, which
\nliterally means \"Many as One\". Altogether, there are nine main
\ntribes of Minahasa -- Tontemboan, Tombulu, Tonsea, Tolour,
\nTonsawang, Pasangwangko, Ponosakan, Bantik, and Siaw -- who made
\na covenant of unity with each other at Watu Pinabetengan (a
\nmegalithic stone at a place called Pinabetengan) in 1642.<\/p>\n
However, Minahasans believe that the historic stone was the
\nplace where originally the nine ancestral chiefs had met before
\nthey went their separate ways all over the land of the Minahasa.
\nArcheological estimations put the stone as around 3000-5000 years
\nold.<\/p>\n
And so with the \"Many as One\" concept being also so entrenched
\nin Indonesia's genetic code at its conception, Minahasa decided
\nto put her future in the Republic of Indonesia. Despite
\npersistent attempts at political usurpation against the nation's
\nethos throughout the years, Minahasa stands firm as a part of
\nIndonesia.<\/p>\n
But for 30-odd years, at least, this people was taken for a
\nwalk on a desert path that led to nowhere, drained of its
\nresources. Their land, once boasting cloves and coconuts, bowed
\nto the humiliating reality of economic and social retardation.<\/p>\n
A people who had sent many pioneering teachers to other
\nislands throughout the archipelago to educate the nation's
\nchildren now mourned the loss of cultural dignity.<\/p>\n
From about 50 years ago, its languages had ceased to be
\nincluded in the school curriculum. It is not an exaggeration to
\nsay that most descendants of To'ar and Lumimu'ut are foreigners
\nto their own languages, culture and history.<\/p>\n
Nevertheless, the tide is changing. Like the warrior sculpted
\non the mosaic windows, the fighting spirit of the people has
\nstarted to stir once again above the tumultuous paradigm shift in
\nthe country's political make-up.<\/p>\n
In 1998, amid the nation's economic and political upheaval,
\nthe Minahasa people were rudely awakened by the reality of the
\nsorry state of their beloved land and people. In 2001, the
\ngovernment implemented regional autonomy, a golden chance that
\nproved the impetus for a new start for many ethnic groups in this
\ncountry.<\/p>\n
For once, the Minahasa people have finally dared to look to
\nthe past to find -- at least, begin to find -- their identity to
\nmove forward in the future. Part of their precious heritage is
\ndemocracy, albeit in its simplest meaning.<\/p>\n
In ancient times, a leader was never chosen or appointed by
\ndefault or by birth. Instead he or she was chosen by the people
\nthrough a democratic deliberation process. Aristocracy has never
\nbeen a legacy for the Minahasans; they have an egalitarian world
\nview. All people -- male and female, poor and rich, educated and
\nuneducated -- stand equal before the Almighty and in their own
\neyes.<\/p>\n
The democratic heritage is slowly being resurrected and
\nreactivated not only in appointing their governing leaders, but
\nalso in the way governmental and private institutions are run. By
\nall means, it's a start.<\/p>\n
A resurgence of interest in their languages is gaining
\nmomentum. The old knowledge of literature and legends are
\nstarting to come forth from the mouths of village elders and
\nthose who are fortunate enough to receive it from their parents.
\nDilapidated history books handed down throughout generations are
\nnow either being rewritten or reprinted.<\/p>\n
In a province where the overwhelming majority of the people
\nare Christian, the Bible is now in the process of being
\ntranslated in the four main languages of Minahasa: Tontembuan,
\nTombulu, Toulour and Tonsea.<\/p>\n
Arising like a cleansing wind is the move from ecologists and
\nenvironmental experts to fight back the deadly pollution on sea
\nand land caused by unthinking capitalistic efforts, such as gold-
\nmining and logging.<\/p>\n
On the other hand, the environmental danger signals have given
\na new holistic outlook to those revamping the regional economy.
\nIt's a view that understands that long-term corporate negligence
\nin defiling the environment results in colossal social, health
\nand economic loss.<\/p>\n
The average Minahasan is an intensely patriotic Indonesian.
\nThe patriotism is obviously rooted in the fact that their fathers
\nfought with the rest of Indonesia for independence, their active
\nparticipation helping shape the nature and direction of the
\nrepublic.<\/p>\n
But one of the causes of such patriotism is the strong belief
\n-- an ideal, perhaps -- that Indonesia was, is and will always be
\na pluralistic nation where a people like the Minahasa can exist
\nin freedom, living side by side with other ethnic groups in the
\narchipelago.<\/p>\n
Whether or not this belief will match reality is yet to be
\nseen.<\/p>\n
Today, the Minahasa people are awake and moving forward, as
\ntold by that spanking new airport standing in the brilliant sun,
\nsurrounded by ancient blue ranges.<\/p>\n
Hopefully, the warrior will never again return to its slumber.<\/p>", "url": "https:\/\/jawawa.id\/newsitem\/minahasa-a-subdued-warior-rise-again-1447893297", "image": "" }, "sponsor": "Okusi Associates", "sponsor_url": "https:\/\/okusiassociates.com" }