Leather looking good for Yogyakarta designers<\/p>\n
By R. Agus Bakti<\/p>\n
YOGYAKARTA (JP): Is Indonesia, especially Yogyakarta, primping
\nto take its place on the international fashion stage for its
\nleatherwear?<\/p>\n
It may well be getting there, with supporting facilities such
\nas vocational schools in fashion and higher education
\ninstitutions providing a boost.<\/p>\n
There is also the Institute for Research and Development of
\nLeather, Rubber and Plastic Goods (BBPPKP), as well as the
\nLeather Technology Academy, the only one of its kind in the
\ncountry.<\/p>\n
The institute is known for its leather, including leather
\ngoods and leatherwear.<\/p>\n
In the Technological Potential Exhibition, held in mid-July at
\nthe institute on Jl. Sukonandi Yogyakarta, a collection of
\nleatherwear was displayed by Yogyakarta models.<\/p>\n
One of the institute's designers, Sotja Prajati, said
\nIndonesia had the potential to become a hub for fashion
\ndevelopment, especially leatherwear.<\/p>\n
Sotja, who studied leatherwear in Italy, said the supporting
\ninfrastructure and other components were in place. \"It's only a
\nmatter of maximizing the potential that is already there.
\nActually, the leather in Indonesia is of different varieties and
\nselection. This is beneficial to designers.\"<\/p>\n
As an institution under the Ministry of Trade and Industry,
\nBBPPKP has a responsibility to take part in the development of
\nthe leatherwear industry, such as in supporting the exhibition
\nwhich was open to the public.<\/p>\n
The event featured a variety of leatherwear goods, like
\njackets, skirts and vests. There also were accessories, such as
\nshoes, bags and belts. All of them were designed in the
\ndepartment of Leatherwear Goods Industry Development. Also on
\nshow were tanned leather, such as suede and jackets, with
\ndistinctive leather natural colors such as earth tones and brick-
\nred.<\/p>\n
The clothes are suitable for relaxed times, such as a late-
\nafternoon stroll or to go to a party, combined with jeans and a
\nshirt, for a funky and cool look. However, their designs remain
\ntrue to esthetics and are especially directed to teenagers.<\/p>\n
Even the castoff pieces of leather can be patched together and
\nmade into vests.<\/p>\n
Sotja said the process of designing leatherwear was exciting
\nand presented its own challenges compared to other types of
\ntextiles.<\/p>\n
\"Every piece of leather, from one type of animal, presents its
\nown types of problems. It's even more so if the leather is from
\ndifferent types of animals.\"<\/p>\n
He added that it was not the same with other types of cloth,
\nsuch as those with uniform or factory produced.<\/p>\n
Sojta follows several steps to produce his leatherwear. He
\nmakes the design, the patterns, and then transfers it to blaco
\nfabric. This is the prototype which is transferred to the
\nleather.<\/p>\n
There is a special technique for cutting the leather, which
\nalso applies to if the stitches are to be featured prominently in
\nthe end design. The leather has its own elasticity, which means
\ncare must be taken in the positioning of the leather across and
\nlengthwise to ensure it is suitable for the design. The designer
\nis challenged to be creative.<\/p>\n
Leather from different types of animals has its own qualities,
\nwhich can be properly used if the designer understands and has
\nthe skills. Sheep leather is ideal for women's clothing; cow hide
\nis good for garments and jackets.<\/p>\n
Sotja acknowledged that the country's climate, with only two
\nseasons compared to Europe's four, was also a hindrance to the
\ndevelopment of the industry, in addition to lack of technology.<\/p>\n
\"Our advantage is that we have such variety in our choice of
\nleather. There is even chicken or fish skin, not only reptile and
\ncow hide.\"<\/p>\n
The sheer variety of skins to choose from could be what is
\nneeded to give the country a competitive edge on the leatherwear
\nfront. The products -- from belts to earrings, hats, hair clips
\nand other accessories, and bags, wallets and shoes -- are already
\non the market to support its development.<\/p>\n
Yogyakarta's designers are known for their creativity, but
\nit's unfortunate that the emergence of a popular new design will
\nimmediately attract copycats.<\/p>\n
Sotja said there were only a few designers of leatherwear in
\nthe country.<\/p>\n
\"If we mention Iwan Tirta, people automatically think of batik
\nwear, because that is distinctive to him. For leatherwear, there
\nare still only a few.\"<\/p>\n
Most Indonesian designers still focus on textiles, which
\nleaves great opportunities for the taking in the relatively
\nunexplored world of leatherwear. Those brave enough to take the
\nchallenge can achieve results on the same level of designers of
\nother textiles. Designing leather is not merely a sideline, but
\nhas the potential to be a full business.<\/p>\n
\"It needs to be taken into account that designing leatherwear
\nmust still be guided by the idea of being fashionable. My
\npersonal hope is that we will see the emergence of designers in
\nthe leather field who will open their own fashion houses, like in
\nItaly.\"<\/p>\n
His hope for Indonesian leatherwear to establish an
\ninternational reputation may well come true, especially as
\nleather clothes always leave an impression of elegance and
\nexclusivity.<\/p>",
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