Kenzo '94: Style without surprises<\/p>\n
By Jason Tedjasukmana<\/p>\n
JAKARTA (JP): \"Very wearable\" was what the woman next to me
\nsaid as the last model shimmied off the runway.<\/p>\n
This aptly describes Kenzo's Autumn and Winter 1994
\ncollection, launched this week in Jakarta.<\/p>\n
Sensible styling with emphasis on practicality and versatility
\ncharacterizes most of the four Kenzo lines, leaving haute couture
\nand impossible fashion in the wake of the waif.<\/p>\n
The use of separates dominates the majority of the women's
\nwear, as Kenzo cleverly balances utilitarian styling with vibrant
\ndesign. The two combine to form part of Kenzo Paris' active,
\ndaytime wear that draws inspiration from Indian and Nepalese
\nflora and fauna motifs. Though the colors are loud and the
\nprints striking, there is an pleasant compatibility inherent in
\neach of the vests, short A-frame dresses and straight-legged
\ntrousers.<\/p>\n
Ironically, the look is more interesting when the pieces are
\nnot coordinated with their matching mates. Together with solid
\nand more neutral-colored garments, the vibrant shades of burnt
\norange, wine, mustard and azure in the mini-dresses, for example,
\nare set off in sartorial splendor when worn over solid black,
\ntaupe or cream-colored trousers.<\/p>\n
Kenzo's strength this season lies in his use of materials,
\nmost notably in the evening collection of Kenzo Paris. The lush
\ntextures of this season's fabrics are highlighted in the sheer,
\nsatin dresses, skirts and gowns that make up much of the line.
\nWith the exception of a few skin-tight, sleeveless tops, the
\nevening wear overall is quite conservative, allowing wearers to
\nput a classy foot forward when stepping out at night.<\/p>\n
One of the most versatile evening pieces is Kenzo's \"Ball\"
\nskirt in black flocked silk jacquard with a tulip motif: Elegant
\nwhen paired with his black chenille sweater, provocative with a
\nsleeveless, princess-line top and \"flapper\" when worn together
\nwith a mock turtle-neck and elbow-high lace gloves.<\/p>\n
To this generally more sophisticated component of the
\ncollection, Kenzo has also added a few playful touches in the
\nform of fluffy, black feather boas and long, floppy,
\nharlequinesque collars. What his intentions were, however, with
\nhis line of women's tuxedo coats with tails is not so clear as
\nthe design is cute but not terribly original or flattering.<\/p>\n
Tame Thing<\/p>\n
Options for the working woman are limited mostly to high-
\nwaisted trousers and semi-frumpy blouses, which can be spruced up
\nand accentuated with the same embroidered collars and cuffs seen
\nin the evening wear. Kenzo's office ensembles don't break any
\nnine to five fashion barriers but are probably a safer bet in
\ntoday's corporate climate of grabbing hands and libidinous leers.<\/p>\n
For that rebel without a mall there is Kenzo Jungle, a world
\nturned upside-down by fuchsias, pinks, purples and blues. Velvet
\nand leather trousers, animal motif T-shirts and suedecloth shirts
\nlend a slightly unorthodox edge and will most likely appeal to
\nthat sassy young lady in need of a statement.<\/p>\n
The roar of Kenzo Jungle quiets down a bit in selections from
\nthis year's Kenzo Jeans, especially when a 1960s theme is
\nintroduced. In an attempt to get retro with phosphorescent colors
\nand quasi-tie-dyed patterns, the cotton elastane zebra-striped
\npants and jackets are closer akin to shag carpeting than hippie-
\nfashion.<\/p>\n
This attempt to inject excitement into an everyday wardrobe is
\nappreciated though as most of the line is fairly standard
\ndenimwear. Calf-length, front-buttoning jean dresses stand out
\namong the choices for women, while vests, jackets, shorts and an
\noccasional Western-styled jean shirt comprise the men's line.<\/p>\n
Homme Alone<\/p>\n
Kenzo's fashion for men doesn't take any unnecessary risks and
\nleaves today's man in something of a quagmire of conventional
\nclothing. Little of the energy that went into creating something
\neye-catching for women has trickled into Kenzo Homme, a bland
\ndiet of glen plaid blazers, khaki trousers and an array of
\nuninspired button down shirts.<\/p>\n
Single-breasted suits, a staple of Kenzo Homme, are standard
\nfare, cut cleanly in their design. The wool\/cotton blends, in
\nsolid colors of cream and olive, flow most elegantly in the two
\nand three-button single-breasts. The fabrics don't hang quite as
\nwell in the double-breasted suits, which come off a bit boxy and
\nstaid.<\/p>\n
Though the leaf motifs are in keeping with the spirit of
\nautumn, the shirts exhibited at their show looked stiff and the
\ntrousers meant to accompany them come in rather drab shades of
\nwine, olive and brown. The menswear in this season's fashion
\nshow is in stark contrast to what is found in the Kenzo Travel
\nLog, which offers rich, rustic-looking wool scarves and
\ncardigans, herringbone jackets and cotton\/alpaca trousers in
\nblack, charcoal and navy. This discrepancy may in fact be due to
\nJakarta's tropical weather, in which case, maybe the gents will
\nhave more to look forward to in Spring.<\/p>",
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