How designer Ramli copes with the devastating crisis<\/p>\n
By Agni Amorita<\/p>\n
JAKARTA (JP): Ramli is extremely worried about some of his
\nfellow fashion designers who are straining under the weight of
\nthe crippling economic crisis.<\/p>\n
The 48-year-old, who has been in the business for 23 years,
\ncannot stop wondering why many designers are helpless when a lot
\nof opportunities are there for the taking.<\/p>\n
\"Middle-class Indonesians can no longer afford to buy brand
\nnames due to the rupiah's sharp depreciation against the U.S.
\ndollar. I want designers to survive the crisis by any means
\npossible, such as increasing the local material in their products
\nby up to 80 percent,\" he says.<\/p>\n
Last week, Ramli invited 22 of his friends, fellow designers
\nand fashion workers, including bridal suite decorators, for a
\njoint five-day exhibition at Hotel Mulia, Jakarta. The event was
\na success.<\/p>\n
The number of co-organizers, 23, (22 invitees plus himself)
\nwas a plaudit to the 23 years he has dedicated to the profession.<\/p>\n
\"I also meant the event to be a celebration of my 23-year
\ncareer in fashion design,\" he says.<\/p>\n
Born on Nov. 1, 1950, Ramli started his career in 1974. With
\nthe help of his mother, he started to experiment. One year later
\nRamli, the youngest of a Betawi (indigenous Jakarta) family,
\nventured out and held his first fashion show at a prestigious
\nvenue, the Petroleum Club. The first presentation of his
\ncollection, called \"Embroidery Night\", consisted of ready-to-wear
\nclothing that was exclusively embroidered. The positive response
\nto his work greatly encouraged him to specialize in embroidery up
\nto this day. His trademark has won him recognition as the
\n\"Indonesian King of Embroidery\".<\/p>\n
His embroidery collection of dresses, shirts and coats are
\npopular among the upper echelon. The majority of his clients are
\nrich women, including the wives of high-ranking officials who
\nwish to appear stylish with typical and contemporary Indonesian
\ndresses abroad. He has not been affected by the constant changes
\nin the fashion world.<\/p>\n
He has held annual fashion shows since his 1974 debut.<\/p>\n
\"This year's show will be around October,\" said the unmarried
\nman who can afford to hold extravagant exhibitions in star-rated
\nhotels even in this time of crisis.<\/p>\n
His frequent overseas shows have become an effective marketing
\nstrategy. He has almost always taken part in fashion shows in
\nmajor international cities both for exhibition or social evening
\nevents to promote Indonesian culture and tourism.<\/p>\n
He models his embroidery on the traditional embroidery still
\npracticed in Tasikmalaya in West Java, Kudus in Central Java,
\nBanda Aceh in Aceh, Padang in West Sumatra, Palembang in South
\nSumatra, and Jambi.<\/p>\n
The elegant characteristics of his embroidered outfits,
\nincluding first-class cutting and superior-quality textiles, have
\nmade his products highly sought after for weddings, major
\ncelebrations like Lebaran and state ceremonies.<\/p>\n
When his work was copied by major businesses, Ramli was not
\ndiscouraged. He has been experimenting and seeking a
\nbreakthrough. Recently he created new a motive, a combination of
\nbatik and embroidery. He \"modernizes\" antique batik by adding
\nembroidery and produces trendy dresses. The technique makes the
\ndress fabric slightly thick but it gives a dramatic impression.<\/p>\n
Ramli, winner of Indonesian fashion editors' award for the
\n1987 to 1988 best-selling ready-to-wear apparel, sells his
\ncreations for hundreds of thousands of rupiah a piece.<\/p>\n
A complete outfit could cost several million rupiah. Such
\noutfits are very much in demand. Last month, he appeared with 800
\npieces of his 1998 collection called Pastel Inspiration in a
\ntrade exhibition in Singapore.<\/p>\n
\"One local man came to the exhibition every day,\" said Ramli.<\/p>\n
\"On the last day he bought up all the clothes and asked if we
\ncould possibly cooperate. He asked me to return to Singapore
\nbecause he felt he had found something in my creations that
\nsuited the tastes of some of Singapore's adult community. He said
\nmy creations were not the style that is in vogue, such as on
\ndisplay in Singaporean shopping centers and wanted by the younger
\ngeneration.\"<\/p>\n
Ramli sold more than 500 outfits at his Singapore exhibition.<\/p>\n
Although Ramli has proven he can withstand the economic
\ncrisis, he cannot hide his anxiety about the situation.<\/p>\n
\"We (designers) are not involved in politics but we are
\nworried about more riots, which are not only frightening but also
\nstall business. When we want to go out, we are worried something
\nbad might happen to our car, which we bought after years of toil.
\nLet alone making a business deal. If our business goes up in
\nflames, what would happen to our employees, workers in the
\nregions? They will fall victims.\"<\/p>\n
While still hoping that the economic calamity will end soon,
\nRamli has opened a street cafe in front of his large boutique on
\nJl. Semarang in the posh Menteng area, Central Jakarta. Every
\nevening you can see him sitting on an antique carved chair at one
\nof the tables covered with a white cloth bearing his famous
\nembroidery.<\/p>\n
People, mostly Jakarta's wealthy, go there after 8 p.m. to
\nenjoy typical Indonesian tidbits like kue serabi (rice-flour
\npancake with coconut milk plus brown sugar sauce), banana
\nfritters, hot sekoteng (ginger-flavored drink). Prices average Rp
\n10,000 a dish, the average price at trendy celebrity street
\ncafes.<\/p>",
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