Glittering Sumatran texture in Didi Budihardjo design<\/p>\n
Text by Asniar Sahab
\nphoto by Seno Achmad<\/p>\n
JAKARTA (JP): A parking lot was turned into a catwalk for the
\nlatest designs of Indonesian Didi Budihardjo that drew
\ninspiration from the glittering embroidery of the traditional
\nsongket fabric of Suvarnadvipa (the former name of Sumatra,
\nmeaning Island of Gold).<\/p>\n
In a bid to give a classy, but earthy impression to the
\npublic, Didi set up a roofless swanky stage in the center of the
\nvast parking lot of the Bung Karno sports stadium in Senayan,
\nCentral Jakarta, which looked like a mini amphitheater.<\/p>\n
The stage was splashed with a silver background framed with
\ngold and rows of seats were formed into U-shaped terraces in his
\nhope of giving something different to his solo performance.<\/p>\n
The open air was the main theme of his show. He invited his
\nguests to come early so they would not get disoriented because he
\nknew precisely that the parking ground was an unusual place for a
\nfashion show. But he wanted to make a usual thing out of an
\nunusual one.<\/p>\n
When the evening skies darkened, the lights on the stage were
\nswitched on and the scene turned into a sparkling spot that was
\nreminiscent of the way Italian designers present their designs
\nfor a fashion show on the street.<\/p>\n
A model in a purple gown stepped out of the frame followed by
\na second who wore a red night gown and the next in warm-colored
\napparel.<\/p>\n
Didi displayed his own definition of Padang embroidery and
\nAceh songket cloth, with exclusive designs in silk, lace,
\norgandy, taffeta and duchesse satin.<\/p>\n
He did not stick to single traditional lines and he gave
\npriority to the sexy silhouette details. He apparently wanted to
\npresent an interaction between arts, instinct and fashion.<\/p>\n
Some gowns and dresses also adopted the mix of Gothic and
\nBaroque nuances to yield an eclectic appearance. They were
\nmanifest in hybrid figures like heroines in an epic, as Didi is
\nfamous for the colonial influences in his creative design.<\/p>\n
Didi remained consistent with his commitment to explore
\nIndonesian culture. In a solo fashion show last year, he focused
\non Balinese culture but this year he exposed Sumatran culture.<\/p>\n
But he frankly admitted that he was not well versed with
\nSumatran culture. The dresses and gowns displayed did not reflect
\nthe philosophy of the culture but more his freedom to express
\nwhat he has observed during his trip to Sumatra.<\/p>\n
\"I am inspired by the culture and I have adjusted it to my own
\naspirations. For example, I combine the mysterious and wild auras
\nof the island in my creation. I see that many people are not
\nfamiliar with Sumatran culture, whereas there are a lot of
\ninteresting things to be shown. Therefore, I want to include
\ncultural development into my designs,\" Didi told The Jakarta Post
\nabout his concept.<\/p>\n
He said he observed the strong influences of Buddhism,
\nHinduism and Indian touches in the songket motifs. Moreover, he
\nalso noticed the Chinese marks in Padang songket motifs and the
\ninfluence of animism in the texture of Sumatran textiles.<\/p>\n
So how did he translate all of this?<\/p>\n
He used two clever tactics: First he used songket for some of
\nhis designs and second he transformed the motifs into crystal
\nshapes. Didi then mixed songket, flowers and tendril-shaped
\npatterns together. At a glance, his designs did not reveal a real
\nSumatra.<\/p>\n
He said he had been preparing the 60 items of apparel since
\nMarch due to the complex production work. He said that he had to
\nuse usus traditional needlework from Lampung to produce the gown
\nand trousers, which were made of silk in the form of array
\nstraps. He recalled that he spent four days cutting the fabric,
\nplus another four days in ironing, fitting and braiding.<\/p>\n
Through the design, Didi said that he wanted to offer choices
\nto fashion buffs. But he realized that introducing a new thing
\nwas not an easy task. He added that he wanted the public to
\nunderstand the traditional fads from islands other than Java.<\/p>",
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