Garut: Taking the waters in West Java<\/p>\n
Hera Diani , The Jakarta Post\/Garut, West Java<\/p>\n
------------------------------
\nCradled in a ring of mountains with water, water everywhere, the
\ncool climes of Garut made it West Java's answer to the Swiss alps
\nfor Dutch colonists. While much has changed since way back when,
\nCipanas subdistrict offers a sedate Sundanese respite at a hot-
\nsprings resort.
\n---------------------------------<\/p>\n
What does it mean to be an ethnic Sundanese?<\/p>\n
Living in the melting pot of Jakarta, there is not much left
\nto remind me of my ethnic background, except the better ignored
\noff-color jokes and unfavorable stereotype of mojang Priangan
\n(West Javanese women).<\/p>\n
Unfortunately, the latter was the first thing that came to
\nmind when visiting Kampung Sumber Alam natural hot-springs resort
\nin Cipanas subdistrict in Garut, West Java, recently.<\/p>\n
The resort's near Olympic sized swimming pool, with piping-hot
\nwater straight from a natural hot spring, was crowded with young
\npeople frolicking at poolside.<\/p>\n
The young women's choice of bathing attire was a tank top and
\nbicycle pants; if the accent was supposed to be on demure, it did
\nnot work, actually accentuating their curves.<\/p>\n
Later that night, during a barbecue in the garden, two dancers
\nperformed the traditional Sundanese dance Jaipong, notorious for
\nits gyrations long before there was Inul Daratista steaming up TV
\nscreens.<\/p>\n
In traditional cloth and kebaya blouse, the dancers' gyrations
\nwere graceful but seductive, supremely sensual without exposing
\nany skin.<\/p>\n
Aside from acknowledging once again the exotic allure of
\nSundanese women -- unfortunately lacking in me -- the visit to
\nKampung Sumber Alam was like a nostalgic trip back to my
\nchildhood.<\/p>\n
Occupying 1.2 hectares, it is a rustic Sundanese village
\nexperience, its wooden villas on stilts, topped with woven bamboo
\nand sago palm roofs, standing in fish ponds.<\/p>\n
It's nature way everywhere, with glorious mountain views, the
\ncool weather and a stream of hot water leading through the villas
\ninto the bathroom.<\/p>\n
\"The basis of this place's design is indeed the longing for a
\nSundanese kampong, by exploring the elements of water, bamboo and
\nrocks,\" said the resort's director Rahmat \"Ukun\" Syukur
\nMasakawan.<\/p>\n
It's an attempt to preserve a corner of the traditional
\nkampong and ecosystem of Cipanas, now mostly vanished in a rather
\nchaotic small town.<\/p>\n
The resort was established in 1971 by Ukun's father, a medical
\ndoctor named Maskawan Mustafa. With only eight rooms available,
\nit was initially a physiotherapy clinic for people to take the
\nwaters.<\/p>\n
Research shows that the water contains magnesium sulfate,
\nwhich reportedly has curative powers to soothe tense or ailing
\nmuscles. Fortunately absent is that biting smell of sulfur found
\nat other hot-springs resorts.<\/p>\n
At Cipanas (meaning \"hot water\" in Sundanese), the water is
\nheated by passing over hot beds of rocks.<\/p>\n
It was not until 1993 that the resort changed its name from
\nHotel Sumber Alam Village to Kampung Sumber Alam, in
\nacknowledgement of its back-to-the-kampong theme.<\/p>\n
\"In terms of the tourism business, places with a cultural
\ntheme will be more competitive, especially if we are targeting
\nforeign tourists,\" Ukun said.<\/p>\n
It proved a fortuitous approach to take; unlike at least 12
\nother hotels in West Java, the resort has survived the economic
\ncrisis of the late 1990s.<\/p>\n
Kampung Sumber Alam has 30 bungalows and 10 regular hotel
\nrooms, with 70 percent of its guests from Jakarta. In a plan to
\ndraw more tourists, it has embarked on an expansion plan, with
\ncompletion expected in December.<\/p>\n
The Sundanese kampong concept is being enhanced at every
\ncorner, and there will be 28 additional rooms.<\/p>\n
The expanded area will include a tegal pangulinan (children's
\nplayground), complete with traditional child games, lumbung padi
\n(rice barn) where locals pound rice, as well as a spa.<\/p>\n
Nature's way has always been the Sundanese way, said Djadjat
\nDaradjat, a geologist and Sundanese culture specialist recruited
\nas a consultant by the resort.<\/p>\n
The ancestral tradition was practical, modest and
\nenvironmentally friendly. The word Sunda itself is an acronym of
\ningsun lan daha, which means \"God and I\".<\/p>\n
\"Sundanese ancestors always looked up to and respected nature.
\nThey planted bamboo as a housing material, for instance, instead
\nof wood because bamboo grows faster. They never cut down trees.
\nThe inspiration for arts was also drawn from nature, such as
\nbatik with clouds or flower motifs,\" he said.<\/p>\n
Comments like his are enough to help us forget those nagging
\nstereotypes. And taking a deep look at one's roots, in an
\nenvironment that pays homage to its traditions, certainly helps
\nbuild greater appreciation of one's cultural identity.<\/p>\n
---------------------------
\nKampung Sumber Alam
\nJl. Raya Cipanas No. 122
\nGarut - West Java
\nTel. (0262) 237700\/238000
\nFax. (0262) 232569
\nE-mail: guestofficer@kampungsumberalam.com
\nwww.kampungsumberalam.com<\/p>",
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