For Bertolucci, watchmaking is in the blood<\/p>\n
JAKARTA (JP): What do Miss Universe and Buddha have in common?
\nThey've both tangoed with Bertolucci.<\/p>\n
Albeit not the same Bertolucci. While the tale of Gautama
\nSiddharta Buddha was cinematically told by Italian filmmaker
\nBernardo Bertolucci, the crowning of a Miss Universe is complete
\nonly when she is wearing an 18 carat solid-gold watch by Swiss
\nwatchmaker Remo Bertolucci.<\/p>\n
"There are a lot of Bertoluccis in the area where my family
\ncomes from (Pisa, Italy). But I am now Swiss," Bertolucci said.<\/p>\n
A youthful man despite his golden age, Bertolucci is a
\nwatchmaker whose creations are considered among the most
\nexquisite of its kind. He attributes his craftsmanship to his
\nSwiss upbringing.<\/p>\n
"Where I come from (the Jura region of Switzerland), there are
\ntwo things to do: make watches, or chocolate," he said plainly.<\/p>\n
Thus the display at the Plaza Indonesia Atrium this weekend
\nwill not be of chocolates, but a rather more expensive commodity:
\nluxurious, handmade watches.<\/p>\n
As the legend goes, if anyone can make watches, it's the
\nSwiss. Switzerland's French-speaking Jura region is particularly
\nfamous, gaining prestige for its specialization in assembling
\nmechanical, self-winding watch movements.<\/p>\n
"Watchmaking is part of our culture and tradition. In this
\narea of Switzerland, everyone is involved in making watches.
\nIt's part of our blood", said Bertolucci.<\/p>\n
Bertolucci's personal experience in the industry intensified
\nwhen he married the daughter of master watchmaker Marcel
\nMichelotti, whose business began in 1911. After 20 years of
\nperfecting the craft, Bertolucci created his own collection in
\n1987.<\/p>\n
After a lifetime of making watches, Bertolucci's eye is keenly
\naware of other people's hardware. Within minutes of our
\nacquaintance, he zoned in on my wrist.<\/p>\n
"You're wearing a distinguished watch," he said sternly.<\/p>\n
Is that a note of disapproval in his voice?<\/p>\n
"You have a beautiful watch, but it is not of the same
\nquality," he answered.<\/p>\n
And this is the foundation of his company: 100 percent hand-
\ncrafted manufacturing. Other manufacturers may assemble the
\nexternal components with machinery, but Bertolucci watches are
\nall made by hand. The discerning watchmaker took my not-so-cheap
\nwatch as an example of inferior watchmaking.<\/p>\n
"Your clasp was made by a machine. The links were cut by a
\nmachine, that's why they have square edges."<\/p>\n
Bertolucci takes off his watch, a heavy chunk of solid gold,
\nfor me to inspect.<\/p>\n
"Everything is rounded and shaped, you see, like the pebbles
\non riverbanks," said Bertolucci referring to the bracelet.<\/p>\n
"The feel is completely different. I want the design to be
\npart of nature, like running water. I want customers to have a
\npure sensation when they wear the watch," he said.<\/p>\n
So what does a pure sensation cost?<\/p>\n
"The prices start at US $2,500 and go up to $100,000. Some
\njeweled watches can cost up to a million dollars," he said.<\/p>\n
When asked why the costs are so high, Bertolucci explains that
\nthe long process of production, and the high cost of labor in
\nSwitzerland, dictates substantial expenditures.<\/p>\n
"Every single watch needs at least 10 months work. Even before
\nyou assemble it together, the construction and sculpting of the
\nmaterials already takes 10 months," he said.<\/p>\n
"We are not a mass-production factory," he continued. "There
\nare only 50 artists working there."<\/p>\n
But a million dollars?<\/p>\n
"Every art costs money," said Bertolucci, "All the famous
\npaintings and sculpture in the world needs time. So do our
\nwatches."<\/p>\n
Despite the considerable expense, Bertolucci contends that his
\nwatches are not status symbols.<\/p>\n
"Lots of people buy watches not for the technical aspects but
\nfor the brand name alone. I want people who buy our watches to
\nhave them all their lives," he said.<\/p>\n
If a Bertolucci watch is an item to be treasured and not a
\ntrendy luxury, how does Bertolucci find their market, especially
\nnow that the free-spending 1980s are over? Bertolucci is
\nconfident of its staying power.<\/p>\n
"I don't think the market changes. If you analyze worldwide,
\nthere is always a demand for quality products. Everywhere you
\nhave good moments and bad moments. When the economy starts again,
\nI believe that people dream about buying a good watch," he said.<\/p>\n
The Asian market, Bertolucci explains, is a particularly
\npositive market. Bertolucci has been in Asia for 80 years,
\nexporting watches to their main markets Singapore, Japan, Taiwan,
\nand Hong Kong. This is its first entry into Indonesia, and they
\nare confident of the move.<\/p>\n
"Indonesia is one of the most exciting countries around to do
\nbusiness in, we see a great future here," he said.<\/p>\n
Bertolucci then claimed that Indonesians are "able to
\nrecognize quality products. It's easy to explain who we are
\nbecause all Indonesians have to do is touch the watches and they
\nunderstand the work."<\/p>\n
What Bertolucci fails to understand is the current rage among
\nwealthy Indonesians for imported luxury goods. Bertolucci items
\nmay indeed be works of art, but to the nation's affluent elite,
\nthey are just another item to purchase with their gold card.<\/p>",
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