Exploring 'izakaya' in Blok M<\/p>\n
Chisato Hara, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta<\/p>\n
Blok M in the mid-1980s was not the bustling nightlife hub of
\nneon lights and signs in Japanese characters that it is today.<\/p>\n
Back then, it was known more for its daytime activities as a
\nmid-range shopping area, its highlights a sprawling, open-air
\nvegetable and fruit market fronting Ramayana department store,
\nAldiron Plaza with its haberdashery, batik painting and clock
\nshops, street-side stalls selling knock-off Rolexes, a Bangka tin
\nsouvenir shop and Melawai Tailor.<\/p>\n
In terms of leisure venues, it could only boast Lipstick, a
\nsmall roller-skating rink, and a handful of karaoke bars and
\nJapanese restaurants.<\/p>\n
This commercial block to the west of Melawai Plaza bloomed and
\nboomed in the 1990s with Japanese supermarket Papaya and late-
\nnight diners, clubs and a variety of bars. Now known as Japan
\nTown or Little Tokyo, its inner streets lit with Japanese
\nlanterns advertising yakitori (grilled chicken on skewers) and
\ntakoyaki (baked octopus dough-balls) are jam-packed with cars
\nfrom 6 p.m. until midnight or so, even on a Monday night.<\/p>\n
While Gran Wjaya center can also lay claim to catering to the
\nexpatriate Japanese community in Jakarta with its bustling Cosmo
\nsupermarket, a ramen (noodle soup) house, shiatsu massage parlor
\nand Japanese tour agent, Blok M is unique because it is host to
\nizakaya, eateries that specialize in home-cooked fare and
\ndrinking in other words, Japanese pub culture.<\/p>\n
Japanese men are not the exclusive clientele of izakaya -- as
\nopposed to nightclubs, where \"hostesses\" in skin-tight cocktail
\ndresses accompany their male guests for the evening. Instead, it
\nis a place of gathering, of socializing, where men and women come
\nto unwind, eat, drink and make merry.<\/p>\n
As with English pub culture, conversation is as much an
\nessential part of izakaya culture as, say, a good bottle of sake
\nor Sapporo beer, and many customers are regulars who stop by
\nafter a long day at the office just to see a friendly face and
\nchat awhile.<\/p>\n
Izakaya proprietors converse easily with their customers and
\nknow regulars by name, and make newcomers feel at home the moment
\nthey step through the door with a boisterous \"Irasshai-mase
\n(welcome)!\"<\/p>\n
As for the food, sushi and sashimi are commonly on the menu,
\nbut most dishes are a la carte and served in single portions,
\nsuch as nikujaga (stewed beef\/pork with potatoes), yakinasu
\n(grilled eggplant with grated ginger), suigyoza (boiled
\ndumplings), shishamo (grilled roe fish with grated white radish),
\nagedashidofu (fried tofu in batter with dipping sauce), kakuni
\n(cubed pork bacon stewed in soy sauce) and oden (assorted fish
\nballs in broth with hot mustard).<\/p>\n
If you are a sake drinker, you can buy a bottle -- it can be
\nanywhere from one to two liters -- and write your name on a small
\ncard that will be hung around the bottleneck -- your bottle will
\nbe held in reserve on a shelf for your next visit.<\/p>\n
Rice is not a staple at izakaya, but is available as onigiri
\n(rice balls wrapped in dried seaweed) and yakionigiri (grilled
\nrice balls basted with soy sauce), both of which can come with a
\nfilling, such as grilled flaked salmon.<\/p>\n
Ochazuke, a simple rice dish with radish leaves, pickled plum,
\nflaked salmon or another condiment with hot green tea poured on
\ntop, is typically ordered to wrap up the meal -- apparently, it
\ncan soothe a tummy stressed from too much good food and has anti-
\nhangover properties to boot.<\/p>\n
Ordering at an izakaya may sound daunting, but just ask a
\nwaitress -- it helps if you can specify whether you're looking
\nfor a fish, chicken, pork, beef or vegetable dish, and don't
\nforget seafood, including seaweed. A menu is on hand with English
\nor Indonesian equivalents, but many of the day's specials are
\nwritten in Japanese on placards that paper the walls of the
\nestablishment.<\/p>\n
Japanese food is mainly flavored with sea salt, sugar, soy
\nsauce, cooking and sweet sake, soy bean paste and\/or rice
\nvinegar, and are grilled, stewed, seared or deep-fried, so you
\ncan't go wrong -- unless, of course, you've something against soy
\nsauce. And don't worry -- grasshoppers are not on the menu.<\/p>\n
Still intimidated? Grab your nearest Japanese mate and say,
\n\"Take me to an izakaya.\" They'll be impressed and show you a good
\ntime out -- Japanese-style.<\/p>",
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