Exhibition displays rare and unusual Indonesian textiles<\/p>\n
Rita A.Widiadana, The Jakarta Post, Payangan\/Gianyar<\/p>\n
Most of the thousand-plus islands of Indonesia's vast archipelago
\neach have their own distinguished textile tradition.<\/p>\n
For scholars, textile experts or collectors, these rich
\nfabrics reveal the extraordinary ability of weavers, designers
\nand other textile makers here. Moreover, they tell the story of
\nthe country's history, incorporating social, religious and
\ncultural influences.<\/p>\n
While Bali hosts many art exhibitions, a showcase of rare and
\nunusual textiles is something to celebrate.<\/p>\n
Organized jointly by Alila Ubud in Payangan, Gianyar, and
\nJakarta-based Dharma Mulia Galleries and Bali Antiquities Agency,
\nthe two-month exhibition is not a complete representation of the
\ncountry's textiles -- which would require a huge exhibition space
\n-- but presents some stunning examples.<\/p>\n
Irwan Holmes, the curator of the exhibition, acknowledged that
\na number of areas were not represented, such as Sumbawa, West
\nNusa Tenggara; and North Sumatra. Rather, the pieces displayed
\nwere selected based on their historical value, technique used and
\nrarity.<\/p>\n
He suggested that visitors view the textiles in two ways -- to
\nwear or to use in rituals, or as fine art.<\/p>\n
The 70 textile works on display are accompanied by a variety
\nof weaving tools, old photographs and other, related objects.<\/p>\n
Some particularly beautiful and rare items are housed in the
\ntwo exhibition rooms of Alila Gallery.<\/p>\n
The first displays textiles from East Timor (now an
\nindependent nation), West Timor, East and West Sumba in East Nusa
\nTenggara provinces, and Sumatra.<\/p>\n
Among the collection is a tais mane (wrap worn by men), from
\nLos Palos in East Timor, which was probably made in the late 19th
\ncentury for ceremonial occasions.<\/p>\n
A European influence can be seen in the wrap's flower motif,
\nwhile the weaving technique was probably learned from the
\nPortuguese, but has origins in the Middle East. No other textile
\nmakers here use this technique.<\/p>\n
Another beautiful piece is a tais feto, or sarong, which is
\nworn by Tetunese women in Belu regency, on the border of West
\nTimor and East Timor.<\/p>\n
The brilliantly colored sarong -- produced between the late
\n19th century and the early 20th century -- shows European images
\nin its design, with men wearing trousers and women in skirts and
\nhigh-heeled shoes sitting on chairs, as well as animals, such as
\nbirds and deer.<\/p>\n
It is possible that these motifs were introduced to the
\nTetunese via textiles from Savu, Roti, and Flores.<\/p>\n
Richly decorated with buna (a weft-wrapping technique), the
\nsarong was worn by aristocrats.<\/p>\n
From East Sumba, which is well-known for its fine textiles,
\nthe exhibition includes Lau Pahudu Ratu (a queen's sarong).<\/p>\n
The silk sarong is decorated with chickens. Chickens are a
\ncentral motif in Sumbanese art: Their entrails are interpreted to
\nforetell the future and the will of the ancestors.<\/p>\n
The silk indicates the sarong was made for a person of
\nnobility. The silk was imported from China. The sarong's bright
\ncolors come from natural, vegetable dyes.<\/p>\n
The rarest textile from the region on show is Lau Merapu, a
\nceremonial sarong made for a priest between the 18th and 19th
\ncenturies.<\/p>\n
It is believed to be the oldest textile found in Sumba.
\nAnother example was found in a bronze box engraved with ancient
\nBalinese-Majapahit designs, and referred to as the wangsul cloth.<\/p>\n
Balinese textiles<\/p>\n
Bali is one of Indonesia's richest textile regions. The
\nexhibition included some of the island's rarest textiles,
\nproduced and worn by the indigenous Bali Aga people.<\/p>\n
Anteng or cerik (women's blouses) made of cotton, bagu (bast
\nfiber), and songket (textile with a supplementary weft), were
\nworn by female members of Sembiran village, Batur, Bali, in the
\n18th and 19th centuries.<\/p>\n
Batik pieces from Central Java and the north coast of Java are
\nfascinating, with one of the best examples being a pair of kain
\ndodot (handmade batik on cotton with semen ragas and bangun tulak
\npatterns), originally from the palace of Yogyakarta.<\/p>\n
These items of clothing were only worn by royal brides and
\ngrooms, or court dancers in Yogyakarta.<\/p>\n
Draped around the wearer they were an impressive sight to
\nbehold. The white, central part is known as bangun tulak, meaning
\nthe shape that wards off evil.<\/p>\n
Among the rarest and most interesting items on display are
\nselendang (shoulder wraps), also known as kain lawon that were
\nmade using a tie-dye technique from Palembang, South Sumatra, in
\nthe late 19th and early 20th centuries.<\/p>\n
Irwan related the story of the kain lawon textile, nicknamed
\nthe Rothko cloth:<\/p>\n
Rothko was a Russian painter who lived in New York and was
\nfamous for his rectilinear, abstract paintings.<\/p>\n
Some years after his death, a New York dealer decided to hold
\na retrospective of Rothko's work. Coincidentally, he also came
\nacross a kain lawon and was struck by its similarity to Rothko's
\npaintings.<\/p>\n
He bought one and put a sign on it that read: \"If you can't
\nafford a Rothko painting (priced at more than US$100,000), buy
\nthis cloth for only US$10,000.\"<\/p>\n
From that point on, a report said, American and European
\ndealers started looking for kain lawon, which had been neglected
\nby Indonesians, and which became a precious item for avid
\ncollectors, like the British prince of Wales.<\/p>\n
A lecture was given by noted textile expert Toni Tack a few
\nhours before the exhibition opened last Saturday, but regrettably
\nmany textile-lovers missed the session.<\/p>\n
Visiting this exhibition may provide an insight into the
\ndiversity of Indonesian textiles; and local and foreign
\ncollectors may find rare and precious items to add to their
\nbeloved collections.<\/p>\n
in box;
\nRare and Unusual Textiles of The Indonesian Archipelago
\nAlila Ubud Bali-Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Gianyar
\ntel (0361) 975963, fax (0361) 975968
\nFrom Sept.25 through Nov.20<\/p>",
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"sponsor": "Okusi Associates",
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