Designers a match for wedding gowns<\/p>\n
Muara Bagdja, Contributor, Jakarta<\/p>\n
It wasn't until the end of the 1980s that it became easier to
\nget Western-style wedding gowns of a good design and quality in
\nthis country. Until then, a bride-to-be had to settle for the
\ngowns stocked with bridal houses or beauty parlors, most of which
\nresembled costumes from children's fairy tales.<\/p>\n
The dawn of the 1990s saw the debut of several domestic
\nfashion designers specializing in wedding dresses, such as
\nSebastian Gunawan, Didi Budiardjo, the late Kim Thong, and Susan
\nBudihardjo (who continues to run her own bridal boutique
\nfeaturing her designs in a Jakarta shopping mall).<\/p>\n
Thanks to the presence of these fashion designers, Western-
\nstyle wedding gowns have begun to assume a more sophisticated
\nlook. Their more focused design, techniques and details
\ninfluenced the style of wedding dresses in the market, and helped
\nshape more discerning consumer tastes.<\/p>\n
So it is that the wedding dress business is flourishing these
\ndays, while fashion designers are also enjoying this renaissance
\nat the same time. Didi Budiardjo believes that there is a good
\nopportunity for the wedding dress business to develop in the
\ncountry.<\/p>\n
"Every year, buyers can double in number ... for the time
\nbeing, I haven't started a special line for wedding dresses; but
\nthe long-term business prospects are quite bright," said the
\ndesigner, who first started designing wedding gowns eight years
\nago.<\/p>\n
Sebastian said that he entered the wedding gown business while
\ncontinuing his career as a fashion designer in 1993 after
\nreturning from Italy, where he studied fashion design.<\/p>\n
He said that prospects in the bridal dress business were
\nbright because, throughout 2001, he received orders for some 30
\nwedding dresses -- quite a good business considering that, as
\nDIdi Budiardjo noted, the price of a wedding gown may run three
\nto five times that of a gown for a party.<\/p>\n
Several factors lead some of us to prefer to have our wedding
\ndresses made by a fashion designer, instead of being bought off
\nthe rack.<\/p>\n
First, the bride-to-be wants a wedding dress that really fits
\nher figure, and is made by an expert.<\/p>\n
Another factor is improved public appreciation for wedding
\ndresses.<\/p>\n
There is now a better understanding of the role of the
\ndesigner: the fashion designer does not merely make a dress to
\norder, but plays an important role in fielding ideas and
\nproviding input.<\/p>\n
The practice of throwing grand wedding parties at hotel
\nballrooms with guests numbering in the hundreds or thousands is
\none important reason why brides want to stand out on their
\nwedding days.<\/p>\n
One factor adversely affecting the business is that women are
\nnow choosing to get married at a later age, especially in urban
\nareas.<\/p>\n
"At present, women prefer to complete their studies first,
\npursue a career, and then get married later. The result is that
\nthe number of wedding gown consumers has gone down slightly,"
\nsaid Sebastian.<\/p>\n
When they finally do make it to the altar, what style do they
\nlike? "Indonesians prefer classic-style wedding dresses. The safe
\none remains their main option. It means a wedding gown with a
\nwide skirt," said Didi.<\/p>\n
As for the upper-body part of the dress, a bustier look is now
\nvery much in vogue. Of course, the gown should look radiant with
\nbeads, crystal or flowers as added accessories. A three-meter-
\nlong veil with a simple touch of beads is also deemed
\nfashionable.<\/p>\n
Like an evening dress or a ballgown, special meticulousness is
\nneeded when making a wedding dress.<\/p>\n
"We assume a big responsibility to make a perfect wedding
\ngown. So all elements -- starting from the style to the material
\nand ending with the execution -- must be flawless," Didi said.<\/p>\n
A good knowledge of character as well as the figure of a
\nbride-to-be will determine the perfection of a wedding dress, and
\nensure that she will look herself while wearing it.<\/p>\n
The making of a wedding dress must also be technically
\nperfect. A wedding dress with a wide skirt should be fully blown
\nand, at the same time, light as possible so that the bride will
\nnot feel heavy in it.<\/p>\n
"Model used to wearing wedding gowns on a catwalk sometimes
\nfind it hard to wear their own wedding gown during their weddings
\nunless -- the gown is perfectly made," said Didi.<\/p>\n
He said that it took him three to four years to be able to
\nperfect wedding gowns to his own design.<\/p>\n
Although this business is promising, it is not constraint-
\nfree. The most frequent problem is how to marry the wishes of a
\nclient with those of a designer. Generally, when a bride-to-be
\ncomes to a designer, she already has her own design in mind.<\/p>\n
"Once, a young girl came to me and asked me to make her a
\nwedding gown based on Vera Wang's design, as she wanted the gown
\nto look international," Sebastian said.<\/p>\n
"Unfortunately, people usually forget that, in the U.S., a
\nwedding party is usually held in a garden or limited space for
\nabout 300 guests," he added. "Here in Indonesia, it is held in a
\nspacious hotel ballroom and, for this reason, the wedding gown
\nmust be made so the bride will not be dwarfed by the spaciousness
\nof the setting."<\/p>\n
It also takes time to complete a dress.<\/p>\n
"For me, a wedding gown is like a flower. It must blossom at
\nthe right time. In Indonesia, the humidity level is high, so
\nmaterials such as duchess satin do not stand up well," Didi said.<\/p>\n
"Besides, the dusty air will leave a spotlessly white fabric
\neasily soiled. It means that wedding preparation must be made as
\nquickly as possible -- while the making of the gown takes a long
\ntime," she added.<\/p>\n
Still, despite the constraints, fashion designers get their
\ngreatest satisfaction when the bride-to-be also feels content
\nwith the gowns they have designed.<\/p>\n
"I was happiest when I made a red Western-style wedding gown.
\nAt that time, the main theme was Chinese, so all the decorations
\nwere red, with a touch of gold," Sebastian said.<\/p>\n
Didi Budiardjo and Sebastian Gunawan do not really feel
\nworried about the current competition among wedding dress
\ndesigners and makers. Each of them has their own market.<\/p>\n
"Those with limited resources can rent wedding dresses, while
\nwell-off prospective brides can choose their own fashion
\ndesigner," Didi said.<\/p>",
"url": "https:\/\/jawawa.id\/newsitem\/designers-a-match-for-wedding-gowns-1447893297",
"image": ""
},
"sponsor": "Okusi Associates",
"sponsor_url": "https:\/\/okusiassociates.com"
}