Designer Nelwan Anwar eyes European fashion market<\/p>\n
By Maria Endah Hulupi<\/p>\n
JAKARTA (JP): Textile artist and designer Nelwan Anwar is now
\neying Europe to market his designs after a successful show in
\nRome recently.<\/p>\n
\"I used the opportunity to display my works in front of
\npotential clienteles in Europe. It was aimed at introducing a
\nblend of natural fibers and silk as materials for haute couture,\"
\nhe said at his workshop in the Tebet area, South Jakarta.<\/p>\n
During his second show in Italy last December, local fashion
\ncritics were interested to learn more about Nelwan's effort to
\npromote natural fibers.<\/p>\n
\"Many of them remained in their seats even after the lights
\nwere out. They appreciated my designs and the natural fibers I
\nused in the material,\" Nelwan said, adding that the whole process
\nis done by hand, a technique which is highly valued by the
\nEuropean fashion world.<\/p>\n
Since he graduated from the Jakarta Arts Institute in 1979,
\nNelwan has shown deep interest in experimenting with fabric from
\nnatural fibers.<\/p>\n
Nelwan further developed this material when he worked as an
\nassistant to one of Indonesia's couturiers Harry Dharsono from
\nl981 to 1987.<\/p>\n
The designer won the Indonesian Fashion Competition in l986, a
\nturning point in his career. Nelwan has been very active in
\ncreating experimental fabrics and has held a series of fashion
\nshows both in local and international stages including in the
\nUnited States, Latin America and Europe.<\/p>\n
Nelwan thanks the Indonesian Ambassador to Italy Rachmad
\nSoendoroe who had introduced his works to Italian designer Micol
\nFontana, of the famous Fontana sisters and who later helped
\narrange his Rome show.<\/p>\n
Successful fashion shows and a flourishing business are not
\nenough for Nelwan. His obsession is to publish a book about the
\nhistory of natural fibers in cloth production. The planned book
\nmay also elaborate the process of threading and weaving that
\nmaterial into exquisite fabrics. The planned book will likely
\nincrease people's awareness and appreciation of the preservation
\nof traditional textiles.<\/p>\n
\"I need sponsors to finance the book project,\" he said,
\ndescribing the project as a chance not only to promote his work
\nbut to preserve the tradition as well.<\/p>\n
He describes his own work as a time consuming process as it
\nrequires two to three months from producing a piece of fabric and
\napplying hand stitched details before it ends up as an haute
\ncouture outfit.<\/p>\n
Nelwan learned about the traditional way of threading natural
\nfibers from a craftsman in Pekalongan in Central Java who has
\nsuccessfully created employment for dozens of jobless people in
\nthe area. The craftsman started using fibers derived from banana
\ntree, water hyacinth, pineapple fibers and horse hair as raw
\nmaterial for delicate cloth.<\/p>\n
The work involves hundreds of people who have mastered the
\nskill of using the traditional method of weaving the thread,
\nrarely used since the Japanese occupation in l940s.<\/p>\n
\"It is a pity if we fail to preserve this traditional weaving
\ntechnique because it will soon be completely forgotten,\" he said.<\/p>\n
The government, he added, should be aware of the country's
\nnatural and human resources potential.<\/p>\n
Local youth can be trained to learn the basic knowledge of how
\nto choose various raw materials, to remove fibers by using simple
\nequipment, like a cutter and their hands and to mix them with
\nsilk into a fine thread.<\/p>\n
Nelwan pointed out that the most delicate part of the
\nproduction phase is choosing the right raw material, to make sure
\nthat fibers will be of prime quality.<\/p>\n
Ideally, young plants should not be used in the raw material
\nas they contain excessive moisture, thus making it prone to decay
\nand they should not be too mature so that it would later require
\nextra handling.<\/p>\n
\"How it starts will define the end result,\" said the designer,
\nwho loves painting and gardening.<\/p>\n
In his effort to create fine fabrics and get the most out of
\nthese natural fibers, Nelwan allocates funds from the profits
\nderived from sales to finance research on natural fibers.<\/p>\n
\"There is an abundance of natural fibers and ample wild
\nflowers in our forests that could be transformed into fabulous,
\nglossy garment material. We are working on it,\" he said.<\/p>\n
When designing, Nelwan envisions himself as a painter who
\nregards a piece of cloth as canvas. He derives his source of
\ninspiration from natural elements.<\/p>\n
Nelwan might have fallen in love with nature during the
\nhardship he experienced in his childhood. He had to cultivate
\nvarious plants for daily consumption in his grandmother's fields.<\/p>\n
\"My childhood experience brought me close to the beauty of
\nnature,\" he said.<\/p>",
"url": "https:\/\/jawawa.id\/newsitem\/designer-nelwan-anwar-eyes-european-fashion-market-1447893297",
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