Daeng Thai serves up traditional fare<\/p>\n
JAKARTA (JP): Thai food lovers and those who covet delicious
\nfare of any culinary disposition should make a beeline to Daeng
\nThai Restoran, an appetizing new addition to the Jakarta
\nrestaurant scene.<\/p>\n
The biggest problem we faced all evening was locating the
\nrestaurant, which is carved out of the lobby of the new building
\nin the Wisma Prince complex on Jl. Sudirman.<\/p>\n
Prospective diners should make a sharp left after the Toyota-
\nAstra showroom to arrive in front of the restaurant -- there is a
\nlarge Bank Dwipa sign on the building.<\/p>\n
Daeng (which, appropriately, considering its location, means
\nprince in Buginese) is tastefully decorated with wooden tables
\nand chairs with Thai music playing softly in the background.<\/p>\n
The waiters and waitresses, attired in traditional Thai
\ncostume, are attentive, but discreet. Unlike some other Jakarta
\nrestaurants, diners will not have to consider the possibility of
\na restraining order to allow them to eat their meal in peace. But
\nit is the food, the centerpiece of any dining experience, which
\nis outstanding.<\/p>\n
Daeng is a taste revelation for jaded diners for whom Thai
\nfood means curries in turgid coconut milk sauces and the
\nsmothering influence of chili powder.<\/p>\n
Diners at Daeng are pleasantly assaulted with delicate taste
\ncombinations blending the tartness of fresh lime juice, the
\nsubtle aromatic fragrance of lemon grass, and nam pla, the staple
\nfish sauce of most Thai dishes.<\/p>\n
Daeng is Thai dining with a decided difference because it does
\nnot serve the hybrid of Thai-Chinese dishes found in most Thai
\nrestaurants in Bangkok and abroad, according to Edmund Arriola, a
\nconsultant at Daeng.<\/p>\n
\"Daeng's food is based on the traditional ways of cooking
\nfound outside Bangkok and in the northern areas of Thailand,\"
\nsays Arriola, who has more than eight years experience in Thai
\nrestaurants in Singapore.<\/p>\n
\"Thai-Chinese cuisine, which most people are familiar with, is
\nsweeter than traditional Thai food, which gets spicier as one
\ntravels north.\"<\/p>\n
Food<\/p>\n
The appetizers were a delicious taste of things to come. The
\nmango salad, a julienne of young mangoes tossed in lime juice and
\nflecked with fresh chili and peanuts, was at once winningly spicy
\nand sweet.<\/p>\n
The beef salad featured succulent cubes of tenderloin atop a
\nbed of fresh greens, tossed with a light lime juice and lemon
\ngrass dressing.<\/p>\n
There was also a traditional dish of chicken wings stuffed
\nwith minced shrimp, which Arriola believes is found at no other
\nThai restaurant in Jakarta.<\/p>\n
A smattering of tangy tomato sauce enhanced the tasty wings,
\nwhich were not too oily or highly spiced. Daeng serves up its own
\nvariation on Tom Yam, the Thai soup found on menus of many hotels
\nand restaurants across town.<\/p>\n
Swimming with chunks of squid, red snapper, shrimp, and fresh
\nmushrooms, the soup is highly spiced with lime leaves and the
\nheady taste of lemon grass.<\/p>\n
The broth is clear, which may surprise some diners who are
\naccustomed to hotels adding evaporated milk to create a milky red
\ncolor.<\/p>\n
Next came the entrees. Yellow rice, presented in a half
\npineapple and crowned with raisins, shrimp, chunks of chicken,
\ncarrots and desiccated meat, was a meal in itself.<\/p>\n
The green curry of chicken and eggplant was excellent, and not
\ntoo spicy for our tastes.<\/p>\n
Diners with sensitive palates will be pleased to note that
\nDaeng's four Thai chefs can easily adjust the spice level o their
\ndishes. A heaping serving of baby kailan, braised in a garlic and
\noyster sauce, won unanimous approval from the diners. Beef stir-
\nfry with ginger was a little too pungent for our party's palates,
\nbut still very good.<\/p>\n
The highlight of the evening was boneless pomfret with garlic.
\nThe fish was crispy, with chunky white flakes sprinkled with
\nshavings of stir-fried garlic. It was mouth-wateringly good; one
\ndiner, who usually does not eat fish, agreed with the others that
\nthis was a delectable dish.<\/p>\n
The desserts were tempting although we could hardly do them
\njustice after gorging ourselves on the appetizers and entrees.<\/p>\n
A selection of traditional Thai cakes and sweets of mung beans
\nshaped like fruits and vegetables were served along with cassava
\nin coconut milk sauce.<\/p>\n
The special favorite was the traditional Thai dessert of fresh
\nmango eaten with glutinous rice and sweet coconut milk.<\/p>\n
Anyone who has ever visited Bangkok during mango season will
\nhave tried this dessert, and Daeng's version was excellent.<\/p>\n
There are no pork dishes on the menu although Arriola says
\nthat the meat is a staple part of traditional Thai cuisine.<\/p>\n
\"This was a strategic move on our part as Moslems do not eat
\npork, and prefer not to eat in restaurants which serve pork,\" he
\nsays.<\/p>\n
During Ramadhan, the restaurant is also providing a
\ncomplimentary buffet of sweets for diners to break the fast.
\nDaeng also accommodates special requests from diners.<\/p>\n
Vegetables can be substituted for meats in curries and MSG can
\nbe omitted from dishes, although Arriola says only 30 percent of
\nthe menu items use the flavor enhancer. Daeng is open for lunch
\nfrom 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. on every
\nday of the week, including Sunday.<\/p>\n
Although prices are not cheap (entrees average around Rp
\n18,000), the quality of the food is worth it.<\/p>\n
There are two traditional Thai dining rooms, one seating 12
\nand the other eight. The restaurant is awaiting its liquor
\nlicense, but Arriola says patrons are welcome to bring their own
\ndrinks.<\/p>\n
-- Bruce Emond<\/p>", "url": "https:\/\/jawawa.id\/newsitem\/daeng-thai-serves-up-traditional-fare-1447893297", "image": "" }, "sponsor": "Okusi Associates", "sponsor_url": "https:\/\/okusiassociates.com" }