Buat tgl 31 oct. nvn<\/p>\n
Sabang: Out of harm's way<\/p>\n
Nani Afrida, The Jakarta Post, Banda Aceh<\/p>\n
A victim of circumstance, the once thriving tourist area
\nof Sabang was inevitably affected by the strife in the rest of
\nAceh. Slowly but surely, visitors are starting to make their way
\nback to sample it gorgeous coastline.<\/p>\n
Sabang always has its special place in national geography classes
\nas the westernmost tip of the far-flung archipelago.<\/p>\n
It also gained a name as a free port in the 1970s, and then as
\na notorious haven for smuggling (the free port status, revoked in
\n1986, was restored by then president Abdurrahman Wahid in 2000).<\/p>\n
For those in the know, however, Sabang on Weh island as well
\nas the other islands around it, including Rubiah, Klan, Seulako
\nand Rondo, offer spectacular natural beauty.<\/p>\n
There is also \"kilometer zero\", land's end in Sumatra, a must-
\nvisit just to say you have been there.<\/p>\n
An oasis of peace amid Aceh's strife, the islands were the
\nchosen site for many local and domestic tourists to vacation, and
\nlocal hoteliers remember how some visitors would stay on its
\nidyllic beaches for months at a time.<\/p>\n
\"Usually they would only leave Sabang for a while to have
\ntheir visas renewed,\" said Syahrial, who runs Gapang beach
\ntourist resort.<\/p>\n
The most popular of the 18 tourist sites across the island are
\nRubiah marine park and the beaches at Iboih, Gapang and Kasih,
\noffering outstanding snorkeling and diving in pristine coral
\nreefs.<\/p>\n
Apart from fishing and growing of crops such as cloves, many
\nlocals depend on tourism for their livelihood, renting out
\ncottages for homestays and selling food.<\/p>\n
Although Sabang is far removed from the areas of conflict in
\nAceh, it was inevitably affected by the strife.<\/p>\n
\"As foreign tourists were not allowed to come to the islands,
\nmany people here became poorer,\" said Abu, 58, told me.<\/p>\n
Since Aceh was declared under civil emergency status last May,
\nforeign tourists have again been allowed to return for stays up
\nto 30 days.<\/p>\n
The visitors are trickling back, but the effects of the
\ntourist downturn can be clearly seen.<\/p>\n
Many cottages have fallen into disrepair due to lack of
\nmaintenance, but at the place I stayed at on Gapang beach, the
\nfacilities and attention to detail compare favorably with a star-
\nrated hotel in Jakarta.<\/p>\n
Cheaper cottages -- known as bird's nests by locals, because
\nthey hug the hillside -- are also available near Gapang and Iboih
\nbeaches. Bare-basics facilities include mattresses and
\nelectricity, with a hammock made of fishing net outside.<\/p>\n
Local beaches remain deserted; on a recent visit, a few
\nforeign tourists were seen sunbathing and reading. The women wore
\nbikinis, as the locals do not impose the shariah restrictions on
\nwomen's dress for foreigners.<\/p>\n
Goggles and floats are available for hire on the beaches for
\nRp 10,000, as well as inner tubes, and flippers. Glass-bottomed
\nboats provide a tour of the coral reefs of Rubiah and Iboih (Rp
\n200,000). Iboih is also home to a 1,300 hectare nature reserve.<\/p>\n
After swimming to their heart's content, visitors can set off
\nfor kilometer zero, about 29 km from the city of Sabang. It is
\nmarked by a monument, and a photo of you reaching land's end is
\none for the family album.<\/p>\n
As the sun sets, tinting the sky in a blaze of red, it's
\nenjoyable to dine on a plate of fried rice at Kasih beach, with
\nthe lapping of waves on the beach.<\/p>\n
Once the haunt of backpackers with a yearning to roam, Sabang
\ntoday is a place where some, unfairly, may fear to tread. But for
\nthose with a spirit of adventure, of any age, it offers its own
\nspecial, tranquil rewards.<\/p>",
"url": "https:\/\/jawawa.id\/newsitem\/buat-tgl-31-oct-nvn-1447893297",
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