'Blangkon' has lost its relevance among Javanese<\/p>\n
By R. Fadjri<\/p>\n
YOGYAKARTA (JP): For the Javanese, blangkon -- the headdress
\nworn by Javanese men -- is more than a hat to cover the head. It
\nis an accessory that is supposed to add respectability to the
\nwearer. This is why, unlike Westerners, Javanese men never take
\nthe headdress off upon entering a room.<\/p>\n
However, this sort of respectability is no longer relevant in
\nJavanese society. Blangkon is worn only by the employees of a
\nJavanese kraton (palace). Those outside the kraton do not wear
\nblangkon and surjan (the traditional shirt) in daily life. Its
\nuse has been reduced to an accessory for occasional use, such as
\nat wedding receptions. But again, only the old men wear it, while
\nthe young ones prefer modern clothing.<\/p>\n
The word \"blangkon\" has its roots in traditional Javanese
\nlanguage, \"balingka\", or \"balangka\", meaning a small headdress.<\/p>\n
There are two designs of blangkon: blangkon mondolan, which is
\nmade in Yogyakarta, and blangkon kepekan, made in Surakarta
\n(Solo). This is in accordance with the history of the Javanese
\nkingdom. In 1755, the Mataram Kraton (Palace) broke up into
\nKraton Yogyakarta and Kraton Surakarta. Sultan Hamengkubuwono I
\nfrom Yogyakarta then designed blangkon mondolan, whose back part
\nis completed with an egg-like adornment. The Surakarta headdress,
\nknown as blangkon kepekan, is entirely devoid of any adornments.
\nThese two models were worn by everybody, from the king down to
\nordinary men on the street.<\/p>\n
Raden Mas Suryanto Sastroatmojo, an expert on Javanese
\nculture, said blangkon has evolved from a head scarf called
\n\"matapen\" or \"jejamang\" in Javanese.<\/p>\n
The habit of wearing a head scarf was a Javanese tradition
\nadopted from people of India. Sastroatmojo said further the
\nblangkon developed among Javanese people into its current shape
\nin the 1800s.<\/p>\n
Governor General Deandles, who ruled the island from 1808 to
\n1810, was also mentioned as the first person who popularized the
\nuse of blangkon as we know it today, according to Sastroatmojo.
\nDeandles had ordered all local colonial officials to wear a
\nblangkon and a modified version of the western shirt. At that
\ntime, the blangkon was a lengthy cloth piece wrapped around the
\nwearer's head. Upon Deandles' order, the blangkon was designed in
\nsuch a way so that it could be worn as a hat instead of a head
\nscarf. It was practical, and the men could save time getting
\ndressed. Hence, the blangkon was created and worn as it is today.<\/p>\n
Since that time, Deandles' blangkon became an important part
\nof traditional Javanese wear. The making of blangkon also started
\nat that time among the people.<\/p>\n
Atmo Suyoso, 80, is one of the blangkon handicrafters who
\nstill survives to this day. A father of five, he started his
\nprofession in 1936 in his home in the hamlet of Turi, Bantul
\ndistrict in Yogyakarta. When the Japanese occupied the country in
\n1942, Suyoso stopped the business until 1945. It was a time when
\ncloth to make blangkon was in short supply.<\/p>\n
Suyoso looks upon his profession as a calling, a vocation. \"I
\nonly want to preserve the tradition,\" he said. It should not come
\nas a surprise then that at a time when the blangkon seems on its
\nway out, Suyoso would not want to give up his work.<\/p>\n
Making blangkon is a skill. The person should be at least
\nfamiliar with the sewing business. Suyoso said a blangkon maker
\nshould know about facial compositions. This is necessary because
\nthis head accessory should not only fit the user's head
\nperfectly, it has to be in harmony with the face.<\/p>\n
\"This is the hardest part of blangkon making,\" he said.<\/p>\n
Suyoso's blangkon are handmade by himself. He seams the cloth
\npieces on a manual sewing machine one by one. This is the reason
\nwhy he can complete only one blangkon a day.<\/p>\n
\"I don't accept large orders,\" he said. Blangkon of fine batik
\njumputan are totally done by hand. He uses his sewing machine
\nonly if the material is of rather inferior quality, like batik
\ncap (printing batik). Suyoso sells blangkon made of batik cap for
\nRp 20,000 each. Those made of batik jumputan cost more, Rp 45,000
\neach.<\/p>\n
Two other blangkon makers' companies, also located in Bantul,
\nhave many workers and produce the items on a large scale. Most of
\ntheir blangkon are ordered by shops renting traditional wear in
\nYogyakarta or souvenir kiosks, which sell the blangkon to
\ntourists around Malioboro.<\/p>\n
In the 1970s, there were many blangkon makers in the district
\nof Bantul. Now there are only two left because of the shrinking
\nmarket in blangkon and traditional Javanese wear.<\/p>\n
\"Most of the blangkon makers closed their businesses or
\nswitched to more lucrative ones,\" said Suyoso.<\/p>\n
As for him, although he does not receive as many orders as in
\nthe past, no day passes without an order. Suyoso has a permanent
\nclientele, including some employees of the Kraton Yogyakarta and
\na number of traditional art groups such as ketoprak and wayang
\norang from Central and East Java.<\/p>\n
\"As long as the sultan is here, I will always receive orders
\nfor blangkon,\" he said convincingly.<\/p>",
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