Anai's Padang cuisine in upmarket setting<\/p>\n
JAKARTA (JP): Everybody knows that Padang food is this
\ncountry's closest equivalent to fast food. Usually eaten in the
\n\"raw\", meaning on a dusty sidewalk in the market in the middle of
\nall the action, platters of food are stacked like pyramids in the
\nsun before being brought out before the diner to make their
\nselections.<\/p>\n
But the heat and noise are also part of the reason why some
\npeople give the food of West Sumatra a miss rather than dealing
\nwith the sideshows.<\/p>\n
For them, there is Anai, which was advertised when it opened a
\ncouple of years ago as the only Padang restaurant located in a
\nhotel. Moving on up? Stomachs grumbling and cash at the ready, we
\nset out to see if it passes the taste test in its fancy environs,
\nor have the spices been watered down for the more delicate
\npalates among us.<\/p>\n
Anai Restaurant, Boulevard Park Plaza Hotel, Jl. Letjen S.
\nParman Kav. 93-94, Slipi, West Jakarta.<\/p>\n
Location: Easy to reach by public transportation or private
\ncar. Boulevard Park Plaza Hotel is the only hotel between two
\npopular buildings; Taman Anggrek Mall and Harapan Kita hospital
\nlocated on Jl. S. Parman -- one of Jakarta's main thoroughfares
\n-- and not far from the Tomang flyover. The restaurant is on the
\nfirst floor of the hotel, next to the swimming pool.<\/p>\n
What's it got: The restaurant's thick menu lists its Padang
\nstyle dishes and other Indonesian traditional food.<\/p>\n
Taking up space on the first page are the most renowned Padang
\ndishes: Rendang daging (braised beef in spicy coconut milk),
\ngulai ayam (chicken in a spicy stew), gulai tunjang (cow's hoof
\nstew) and ikan asam pedas (tuna in a spicy sour sauce).<\/p>\n
There is also a variety of other foods -- eggs, cow's brain,
\njackfruit, squid -- in gulai, a spicy, curry-like stew made from
\ncoconut milk.<\/p>\n
Other spicy Padang dishes cooked without coconut milk are
\ndendeng balado (dried and fried beef garnished with red chili),
\ntelur balado (fried whole egg with chili), sambal goreng ati
\nampela (spicy chicken liver and gizzard with chili), udang balado
\n(spicy fried shrimp with pete - a pungent type of bean) and
\nchili), sate Padang (diced ox tongue satay with the distinctive
\nPadang sauce), green or red chili sauce, ayam pop (boiled local
\nchicken served with cassava leaves and chili), and nasi goreng
\nPadang (Padang style fried rice).<\/p>\n
Dishes from other regions of the country include grilled fish
\nand chicken, gado-gado (blanched vegetables in peanut sauce),
\nsoto (chicken broth) and oxtail soup. And, of course, fried rice.<\/p>\n
Sweet Padang beverages in tall, slim glasses include es
\ncinderamato (a mix of flavored jellies, fermented black rice,
\ncassava, condensed milk and ice) and Anai's es cindua (pandan-
\nflavored flour in a syrup made from coconut milk and brown
\nsugar).<\/p>\n
Non-alcoholic cocktails include Batavia springs, virgin
\ncolada, lime punch and fruit punch. Alcoholic beverages include
\nwhisky, vodka, tequila, beer, red or white wine and champagne.
\nCoffee-based drinks include cappuccino, espresso, decaffeinated
\ncoffee or liqueur coffee (Jamaican coffee, Italian coffee,
\nMexican coffee, Irish coffee), while fresh juices and tea add to
\nthe extensive drinks list.<\/p>\n
Price Points: The bill came to Rp 182,000 net for our party of
\ntwo's one small rendang, ayam pop, fish in a sweet and sour
\nsauce, squid in a gulai sauce, five skewers of Padang satay, a
\nsmall gurame fish, two small portions of Padang vegetables, three
\nstandard portions of rice, and three soft drinks. Pricey compared
\nto the usual Padang eateries, but then this is a hotel, with all
\nthe \"plus pluses\".<\/p>\n
Looks: Set in a traditional Minangkabau ambience with framed
\nfabrics from the region, traditional weapons and musical
\ninstruments hanging on the wall and a traditional tablecloth on
\neach of more than 15 tables. There are also two private dining
\nrooms, each seating up to 12 diners.<\/p>\n
The two waiters in their traditional Minang costumes may not
\nbe as dexterous as some of their counterparts, who are able to
\nbear a dozen dishes as they scurry between tables, but Anai's
\nstaff do their job well and are all friendly.<\/p>\n
Unlike most of its kind, this Padang restaurant is clean and
\ncomfortable.<\/p>\n
Popular with: Expatriates from the offices along S. Parman
\nstreet in Slipi, West Jakarta.<\/p>\n
Taste Factor: Good all round, but rather disappointing if
\nspice -- especially chili -- is what you relish. The rendang meat
\nwas too small and not spicy enough, the gulai curry tasted
\nbitter, while the ikan asam pedas and the green chili sauce
\nlacked flavor. But we do recommend Anai's delicious and top
\nselling gurame in a yellow sour sauce, and the sweet es
\ncinderamato and es cindua.<\/p>\n
Minus Points: Lack of taste, meaning spice. Spice lovers will
\nnot be able to get the fire-brand hot taste they crave, but the
\nexperience will be a non-threatening introduction for others.<\/p>\n
Verdict: A comfortable, spotless place for a good Padang meal.
\nNo need to worry about chili after effects, which may be a good
\nor bad thing, depending on how you like your food. (Deni Putri)<\/p>",
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