Among active ancestors at Candi Sukuh in C. Java<\/p>\n
Text and photo by Simon Marcus Gower<\/p>\n
SURAKARTA, Central Java (JP): Sexual indiscretions are often
\nthe topic of tabloids and gossip but are not generally associated
\nwith places of worship. However, visit a particular ancient
\ntemple in Central Java and such thoughts may come to the
\nforefront of your mind.<\/p>\n
Candi Sukuh has gained some notoriety for its tales concerning
\nthe more racy, scandalous aspects of life. On a hillside some
\nfifty kilometers from Surakarta, Candi Sukuh is unusual for both
\nits tales and architecture.<\/p>\n
The temple was built 600 years ago by the last king of the
\nMajapahit Kingdom, Suhita. The location of the temple is puzzling
\n-- being remote and high up on a hillside. It seems incredible
\nthat people living in an age of limited technology were able to
\ncut, carry and carve the stones used for the temple.<\/p>\n
According to our guide, Hadi, the location was chosen because
\nit was considered sacred and it soon became a site for ancestor
\nworship. These ancestors apparently remain at the location and
\npass judgment on the purity and sexual fidelity of visitors.<\/p>\n
Sukuh is unique for Java because it is similar to the ancient
\nMayan pyramids of South America. The temple stands on three
\nterraces and the pyramid on the top terrace seems to gather in
\nawe and wonder as you approach. Indeed, the approach up the
\nterraces is said to be where the ancestors assess visitors.<\/p>\n
Through the first gate to the first terrace, guarded by two
\ndvarapalas (huge stone-carved statues that guard many Javanese
\ntemples), a small path is reached. Along it are sculptures and
\nrelief carvings and here is the first test from the ancestors.
\nAmong the carvings are representations of a phallus and a vulva.
\nTradition says a woman passing these may find that her clothes
\ntear. If this happens, it is an indication that the woman has
\nbeen promiscuous and must confess and seek purification.<\/p>\n
Should one pass this path without any tearing of clothes, two
\nmore dvarapalas stand at the entrance to the next terrace.
\nThrough the narrow gate more carved stones line the path. Here it
\nis said strong winds blow aggressively across the hillside if a
\nman who has been unfaithful in marriage should pass; the winds
\nbeing a sign that he must seek forgiveness from his wife.<\/p>\n
Allowing for torn clothes and crosswinds, the third and final
\nterrace may be reached. Here, too, are carved stones -- in relief
\nstories are told and a variety of carved figures serve as
\nguardians to the pyramid. Winged figures, grotesque creatures and
\npeculiar giant stone turtles stand bearing witness to the unique
\npyramid.<\/p>\n
Beyond these odd creatures stands the small, undecorated
\npyramid. Hypnotically one is drawn to the narrow slit at its
\ncenter, which contains steep steps to its top where purification
\nmay occur.<\/p>\n
It is claimed that the more pornographic sculptures were
\nremoved to the National Museum in Jakarta, away from devious
\nminds and eyes. Whether this is true seems incidental when one is
\nstanding on top of this mysterious, wonderful pyramid. Views down
\nthe hillside and across distant plains are spectacular. With the
\nhuge dew-soaked stones beneath your feet, it is possible to
\nimagine how this location came to be thought of as sacred.<\/p>\n
Whether ancient ancestors reside here to judge with torn
\nclothes and crosswinds is perhaps questionable, but the reality
\nof Candi Sukuh is beyond doubt. This is a unique, mysterious and
\nwondrous site. The remarkable work that went into creating it
\ncenturies ago has left an intriguing sacred place that is both
\npuzzling and awe inspiring.<\/p>\n
Getting There: Candi Sukuh lies about 50 kilometers east of
\nSurakarta, from where public transportation can be taken to
\nKarangpandan and then on to the small village of Ngolrok.<\/p>\n
Temperatures can be rather cool at the site so some warmer
\nclothing may be useful, as will sturdy footwear as it can be
\nquite rough underfoot.<\/p>",
"url": "https:\/\/jawawa.id\/newsitem\/among-active-ancestors-at-candi-sukuh-in-c-java-1447893297",
"image": ""
},
"sponsor": "Okusi Associates",
"sponsor_url": "https:\/\/okusiassociates.com"
}